Randy Bill

I believe the triangular thing is a cast iron rocking grate bar for a coal stove. Or a doorstop.

Used in high performance applications but not limited to "racing". Industrial or truck engine exhaust valves might be sodium filled.

You guys better WATCH OUT! Remember Sodium filled valves! Any valve that can not be positively identified is a potential bomb in a forge!!!

79634 is indeed 1902.

Not the warmest welcome to a forum member I've ever seen. Chaos, I'm with you; driving much distance gets expensive these days and personally I begrudge the time lost. I haven't gotten to the bottom of the railroads ingrained near-blanket policies on rail sales. For pete's sake give railroad employees receipt books. I stopped short of actually calling the rail offices, being polite and sincere with folks opens many doors. By chance, I found two great pieces that were already USED as anvils! Proving that rail was available at one time. I wonder if railroad contractors (private) would be easier these days.

I rescued this 5" post vise from burial and just noticed the lettering today after some rubbing with an oily cloth. Very well made; faceted.

The three look very much by the same hand.

And thank you for preserving that beautiful patina for future generations to enjoy.

Do you think your piece had any heat treating and what does the rebound seem like?

I cut two 28" lengths from an ash log and squared the ends with a power plane. The RR spike maul weighs 9 pounds, countersunk 3". Height to top is 41" which is really very comfortable for small stuff. So much so, I found myself using it within minutes without even realizing it. It's "purposely removable" in that I want the maul to seat on the bottom of the hole and not have a splitting effect; I can take it out if needed?

I think I'd be able to make use of a post drill. Can a "modern" chuck be installed to avoid the hassle with the old-style bits?

Greene's painting used for the AIA front piece and cover shows some Real Blacksmiths. Mr. Postman's description of the painting and a long, long study of the print is fascinating. That head wear isn't for looks, either. Scale helmets.

For those who find graphite to be the lube of choice, John Deere has powdered graphite in one POUND plastic squeeze bottles. You heard right. It's used as a lube for corn planters by adding a teaspoon or less to the filled seed hopper; it filters down into the mechanism to "insure proper lubrication". (Yes, it works). Part No. B33379 Powdered Graphite.

I have seen similar here within a few miles- quite handy for lots of things I bet. Congrats on the use of pallet wood! They can be a real stinker to get apart; I've resorted to grinding off the nail heads mostly. Some of the hardwoods used in them is extremely dense and hugely durable.

Stop apologizing! Your English is excellent. Your welding looks exceptional. Your fabrication skills are inspiring. Are you related to Rob Wilson? Rest assured, someone will be along answer your question...

DSW my friend, what prompted you to inspect a cow's regurgitated cud? Any pics?

Pre-Columbian forklift tines according to "Ask".

Okee-dokee then. I am done Securing my anvil! The four dogs were indeed whittled from the preform I posted in #42. "Vaughn's hand cart project" is next.

Still a little off topic as technically I haven't "Secured my anvil" yet, but the stand it WILL be secured to is done. Four hold-down dogs still required. Frosty's plan for welding was right on; evidence here that RR rail can be successfully welded without preheating. In this case rail was welded to itself and to mild steel using wire-feed with ER70S-6 wire and considerable peening. My welder stated he used a two pound hammer and "really wailed on the piece" during and after welding. Stand weighs 170#. The Hay-Budden was bedded in caulk; plastic wrap and non-stick cooking spray on anvil and stand to facilitate removal if needed. Absolutely eerily quiet. Rebound is about 85%.

That is a gorgeous piece. If you get it PLEASE be advised by the experts here BEFORE doing any cleaning! Seems I've seen posts about irreparable damage that can be caused by too-aggressive "cleaning", i.e. wire brushes used on angle grinders, abrasives, etc. Best of luck on a purchase!

Most newer handled tools (and the spike mauls in my image) have double tapers in the eye so the handle is locked in position when correctly hafted. DSW's method is usually the quickest; careful that the bit doesn't "grab" when the wedges are encountered. Use a straight-sided punch to drive out the remnant.

Thank you Thomas Powers for the stake anvil idea.Removing a handle remnant can be a pain. I knew a fellow who found it easiest to remove them from axe heads by putting them in a bonfire and retrieving them the next morning from the cooled-off ashes. Really. That was almost fifty years ago and I do it differently now.

The clear tubing is the answer. It was the chasing the ball around the floor part that was "unique". And I have a DIRT floor. Perhaps the larger diameter 1" averages out surface irregularities? Plenty heavy, though. Could use as a pocket penetrometer on cast iron anvils.

Often suggested but I didn't have the "one inch steel ball". Found them at VXB bearings; they're called "loose bearing balls". Yes, I've seen the test description at anvilfire. Performing the test by myself is silly. Candid camera footage. What is a good method of measuring the rebound? My Hay-Budden is scoring between 120% and 60% so far.

I definitely agree it's VERY cool! And I'd be VERY firm on your asking price. Or just keep it and use it responsibly. My take on museums: they have enough.