Sam Salvati

Building chopsaw is an option, not all that complicated a machine really.

Not as ugly as it was Dan :D

Looks like a million bucks to me Bruce!!!!

Cannot stand to see some people hit the anvil more then the piece, or do that light tap heavy hit light tap heavy hit everytime.

Tubbe that is gorgeous work!

good stuff is 1045, 5160 would be good if you could find it in big blocks.

Forged this guy at the monthly meet for the Blacksmiths Guild of Central Maryland, along with a arrowhead door handle and a foldy leaf which went in the iron in the hat.Had a good time and gorgeous shop in Westminster MD (stop by). Joined up to get access to the BGCM library which is pretty good. Just a bit of coil spring they had laying around. Not gonna put any scales or nothing on this one, it's comfy as is. I did a bit of grinding to clean things up but will leave it black.

Well done.

thanks very much everyone! Tooling for the Hoffman is SO nice and easy to make, with the 7/8" hardy hole there's not much time to source large material that you have to step down to get a shoulder, or upset smaller stock trying to get a shoulder. Yes they are, old bits.

Like the faces on the clock, 12-6, 3-9, 2-8, 10-4, 5-11, 1-7.

Thanks guys! finish technique is easy, 24 grit, 120 grit, 220 then wire wheel. Any hot bending after polishing and you just wire wheel again. Nampa, the longer arm pivots on the center pin, like a diacro or a hossfeld.

Made up some tooling today, right angle and straight up fine mandrels, a small 3 pin bender that will fit in the hardy hole, and scroll starter for very fine scroll work and making snub and penny end scrolls.

Thanks John! When orienting the skulls I thought the same thing, faced out would be more stable but a horrible toe stubber/trip hazard. The stands open enough too I think that spikeing in through the eyes or nose is totally doable. I love the idea of a patch or dagger hilted stake!!! I never thought of this as having the brazeal anvil for the base, I had made a brazeal anvil like his tall block anvil with the diferent die shapes ground in, but cut that up to make the base for this anvil.

Thanks Fellas! Dave, not much mess there ;) Bob, I see what you are saying but why not use the perfectly good anvil to strike on? LOL. I will make that exact tool you say, an adjustable t shaped rest to act as a 3rd hand. Might try one with a vice grip on the end too. I like your idea of adding lock screws to each pivot also!

Looks great Dave! I would have slit that pipe then welded it hehe.

Glenn, thanks! I see your point, but the idea for these mounts was convenience, but also I wanted there to be a clear path to the base plate through the hardy and pritchel holes, and locating things this way did so. You noticed the anvil was offset, this was to make an open space on the far side (i work horn to the right) for upsetting, like some anvils have an upsetting block. I need to source some expanded sheet for just that! :D

I liked the steel stand for the peddinghaus anvil so much I decided to also do a steel one for my Jymm Hoffman anvil also and to pull out some stops. Used some rebar for an industrial look (plus it was available) for the bracing, rectangle tube for the legs and I sacrificed the Brian Brazeal style block anvil to use as the top plate for this stand, which adds about 30 pounds and makes the whole thing very rigid. I wanted to have the stand be the same size as the base of the anvil to allow alot of room around the heel and horn. Kerry my boss suggested the skulls for the feet which I like alot. I was thinking of all kinds of things to put on it, tool holders, racks, bending fork, trays and shelves and little thingies, but then kind of streamlined it, one for a hammer, one for the hardy. I did concede to my brain and make an articulated arm, that can hold different kinds of things on it's end, I only had time tonight to make a little tray for it but I want to make a little T rest that can adjust up and down to act as a helper's hand, and some other things as I think of em. The arm has quite the reach, each arms is 7" making 14" straight out. Anyway, here is photos: about 20 pounds of steel block (left over top from the Brazeal block anvil) at furthest extension in the tippiest direction of the 3 leg stand, not even a wobble

*high five* B) Alysia says you are a fancy British person with a fancy British moustache and therefore I should be honored you called it SaM :D

Awesome :D

Hollis thanks! I wish it was larger but it will allow me to make money to get a larger (48" deep paragon :)). Does wax burnout make a nasty mess inside? I will use it for fragile small things as well as some production knives, it will really let me sleep well knowing for a fact I nailed the right temperature for a known steel.

Scored a kiln on another forum, a small one but perfect for knifemaking. It is a used 3 times brand new-ish Evenheat copper, which is a glass model but should be just fine for knifemaking. goes up to 2200F which is way hotter then anything I do. Plus side too is it is 110 with a regular plug, slow on heating up but no big deal. No more heating as a variable! Hooray!

Well done great shape!

VERY COOL WHIRLY!!!!!!!!! Wow those are awesome.

Wayne, we got a different UPS guy this time he was extra burly hehe.