Gergely

Hi jws! I consider myself as a karambit fan, and I like it. Nice proportions, nice colors, great file work on the back. I'd like to talk about only one detail: bigger curve in the cutting edge. I think it's very common to have 90 degree between the axis of the tip section and the "axis" of the handle. Anyhow, I like it big time. Bests Gergely

Hi FlyingXS and welcome check out Alec Steele and Daniel Lea on youtube Bests Gergely

Hi Dancho! What is gonna be the language of this symposium? It looks very interesting. I tried to search the place in Google Map. Is it Lichiovo (Rokamezö) near Kushnytsya or something else in Uzhgorod? Either way it is very close to me, so maybe I would go there. Is it possible yet to apply for it? Any fees or whatsoever? Bests: Gergely

Let me fourth it! :) G

Thanks for the quick answer, Bigfoot! I give it a try then. The stock can be ready for now to be worked with. G

If I may hijack Spanky's topic a little: Does anyone know about how good is the wood of white mulberry (Morus alba) for hammer handles? Thanks and best wishes: Gergely

This is an awesome video, Tubbe. And the result of the process is a very nice piece of tool. I was happy to follow your tool making adventures. IIRC in the beginning you said the goal is to build up tooling for making a Brazeal style hammer. You have achieved your goal succesfully. You even had us to learn things (I sure did learn a lot). Congratulations to you for having such a good conception on how to construct a long term topic. I'm very much vaiting for your new projects. Best wishes Gergely PS. you have a cool workshop.

Hi Roger! Good working, keep on it. I seriously like those belt buckles, if I am correct and they are belt buckles. I think I will try that too. I have already given it a try but it was a disaster. Bests Gergely

Nice baby anvil, ID! What's that axe-like thing? Hot cut? Greetings Gergely

That 5bar is a mindblower! Very-very beautiful texture! Thank you, John, for creating things like this. Bests Gergely

Hi Viktor! I've just noticed your topic but if I saw it earlier I'd said only supportive things about that anvil. It is a very good one, perfect size, nice old piece and the price you paid is unbelievable. (You paid 1,33 €/kg. In Hungary the common pricing is 1000 HUF/3.3 € for a kg. My anvil of the same style costed 1,8 €/kg - so you beat me :) ) Congratulations on the purchase and I wish you lot of great time working on it! Those chips on the edges will not bother your work. It's pretty easy to learn how to use a bit flawed anvil. In the first times I marked the intact spots on the edge of the anvil, now I just know how to work on it. Can you read any sign or letters on the side? Happy hammering and if you ever come to East-Hungary you are welcome to my workshop! Gergely

Pretty much everything has been said about how to make a sickle, but just for fun you can look at this, page 95: http://www.bushcraftuk.com/downloads/pdf/blacksmithing.pdf Good luck Gergely

Best wishes and quick recovery for you! Gergely

Hi David, I made my current hot cut hardy from a scrap pickaxe. Easy to find (around here), its material is easy to work with, and it's tough enough. You just cut the blade part off, straighten it, widen the blade-to-be, tighten the shank part to fit the hardy hole, normalize it, file or grind it to final shape. That's it. (I even made a square drift from the spike of the same pickaxe - so double joy.) Best wishes to you. Gergely

Thank you, Frosty, for these valuable tips! Having audience is only a future plan, but you never know, it's better to be prepared. I try to have as portable equipment as it is possible. The forge itself is portable only the chimney is built in. The anvil is 114#, its new stump is being made to be movable, too. I'm not sure what to do with the vise: I'd rather make it not portable but strong and with a holding bottom plate I can stand on. I really like the electric safety lock idea, I'm gonna think it through. Around here working safely is not a common concern, but there are people who think they can operate all the machines they find. This two added together may result very serious problems, and I really hate to clean bloodstains. If I can finish my work early today, I draw new pict showing what I have in mind. Bests Gergely

Hi Candid! Thank you for the great effort taking this into cad. It looks reaally nice! One of the reasons why people can't answer my questions can be: I forgot to ask explicitly what contribution I need in this. When writing in English I have to focus to the language so much I sometimes forget the main line of thought. But back to business: I want to be able demoing for visiting groups (ie. school classes). This is in the future, but now is the time planning it. Your idea with the polycarbonate half wall is plain genial. Those could be even door like on hinges, and could be opened and closed when needed. Well lathe is unmoveable because its rotating power comes from an axle hanged to two steel poles going deep in the concrete floor. In the weekend I started to clean the junk out. And made the material storing possible in the junk pile's place. I make a new drawing when I have a little time. But my baby daughter was born yesterday so... a bit more other things to do :) Thank you again! Greetings Gergely

Dear IFI Members, dear Friends! You have been helping me really much since I joined this forum both with advices and with relieving the loneliness I felt being alone with my interest. I am incredibly thankful for that. You and your words written here have become really important part of my days - thank you for that, too. But being greedy may be built in the human nature - so I bother you with further problems. I plan a shop makeover which basicly means getting rid of the junk and trash accumuleted in the building used as my shop. The origin of this problem was that the building was meant primarily for stroring all kinds of stuff, and only later I began to turn it into a shop. In the first times I used only the area behind Door 1. That expanded into an L shaped workspace with the forge and anvil. Now suddenly new needs have arised: - work space for the lathe work - safe and organized way to store all the raw materials - space for two anvils and a post vise (mounted to its own stand) - making possible that visitors/guests watch forging work - much more equipment storing possibilities - open place for assembling I have given some thoughts to this operation, but more the brains thinking more the merry (I hope ;)). Also I have read about this through the IFI sites. And some notes on the drawing below: - windows are on the wall behind the lathe - all the doors can be opened totally - main direction of wind is north-northwest - which way the doors face - walls are some sort of slate sheets, no nailing, riveting to bear weights is possible; only the poles (P) can bear stuff - there are some unmoveable things: the forge, lathe, built-in shelf and the workbench - the ground level of the area behind Door 2 is lower then the other one's If you have read this far I am very thankful for your effort - if you even comment this you are the most kind! Greetings Gergely Somehow I can't attach bigger picture.

This sure is turning out to be a tutorial. Thank you for sharing Rusty! Gergely

Hey Tubbe! You can constantly achieve that sort of rough scandinavian perfection which I like so much! Thank you for showing us and teaching. Greetings Gergely

Hi VaughnT! Thanks, I like it, too. :) This vise belonged to an old blacksmith who has been very sick for a long time. His daughter has sold most of his tools except the vise and the forge. I'm sure he kept good care of this vise. I want to continue that habit. (The forge was not for sale this time, but I asked her to call me if it is. The old man made his own forge and it was very neat and professional work. It is used for heating dog food nowadays...) I'm relieved to hear you using linseed oil. I may buy more then, because my tools are getting really thirsty for some. I intend to use this vise to do heavier work on it. Filing goes on my two engineer's vises, the bigger (~60#, 5" jaws) has even resisted some hammering work. But it is wiser to try and see how it work the best - thanks for the suggestion. Me too! ;) Next few days I dig up IFI for vise mounting stuff. I really liked one with the little bench and tool holder things on it. Gotta find it again. Greetings Gergely

Thank you, TH. Yes, and I can't thank them enough for doing so. It was so good to feel, that I know what I suppose to look at when watching the vise. Big-big thanks again for everybody who helped to achieve that! Bests: Gergely

This was a very nice day. I have my first post vise - even if it's postless. It's a beautiful piece! It weighs 45 kg (~100#), jaws measure 140 mm (~5,5"). To start and enhance the owning process I wirebrushed the rust off. When it was done I realized the lack of any suitable oil so in final desperation I put some linseed oil on it. Hopefully it won't hurt too much. Some pictures: Greetings: Gergely

All right. Talked to the seller, so I'm going to look at the vise tomorrow morning. Thank you guys for the help. Hopefully I can post some pics if everything goes the right way. We'll see. Gergely

I like it, nice work. Have you hardened it? How hard? I've always thought spear heads have to be as tough as they can be and no brittleness is allowed for the case it is thrown. Nice work and nice pics. Gergely

Very nice score, Jason! I'm no anvil wiz and might be totally wrong but this looks like a quite old lady-baby. And is in a real good shape for the age of hers. I'm definiately waiting what the wiser say about this one. One thing is sure: this can be used well for an other 100 years. Greetings: Gergely