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I Forge Iron

will52100

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Everything posted by will52100

  1. Good thread. I am planning on building one before too long. I will also be purchasing the plans, but money is tight rite now. Anyway, I was wondering about the upper roller bearing, if I understand correctly the original plans call for boring holes in bronze blocks. Is there some reason doing the same with mild steel won't work? I know bronze is a lot slicker than steel, but would putting a grease fitting in and greasing the fire out of it help, or would it still want to gaul? I will have to look, but I may have some red brass flanges that are large enough to turn bushings out of.
  2. A Clay Spencer tire hammer. I purchased it from Ray Mack of Raker Knives. Long story, but every time there was a build class I was on the water, so when Ray decided to sell to help pay for an air hammer upgrade I jumped on it. This is an old photo, at my old shop, I've repainted it and fixed a few of the less than professional welds that came loose while working it. Good little hammer, but am wanting to add an air hammer now, just can't afford one.
  3. Now that sounds like it might work. Whatever I go with, it's still a long ways off, but glad to hear I've got options. Thanks.
  4. Thanks, good info. Still got some research to do, along with getting a lot more money together.
  5. Thanks, I'd prefer to get as big as I can and was considering the 120. A 60 amp breaker would be just about max, but then I doubt I'd be running anything other than the forge blower and maybe lights at the same time. Then again, maybe the 88 is about max. Sure wish I had 3 phase out here, but that's not gonna happen. The phase converter you installed, how well does it work? The only ones I knew of would cut something like 1/3 of the horse power off a 3 phase motor, but I've of recent ones that while expensive would pretty much give full power. Thanks.
  6. According to the Anyang USA website, the 88 uses a 5 horse single phase motor with 22 amps. The 120 pound model uses a 10 horse motor and 29.4 amp 3 phase motor. Would this be max amp draw, or??? And would it be possible to get a single phase motor for the 120 model? Or a converter as it would be next to impossible to get 3 phase where I live. Not sure what the Saymak amp usage is.
  7. I'm considering the anyang or the saymak. They both have 5-10 horse electric motors. I'm currently running a 5 horse motor on my hydraulic press. I remember seeing a vid on the saymak and they were talking about setting the belt tension by motor amps and they were around 32 amps if I remember correctly.
  8. It's a long way off, but I'm starting to seriously think about getting an air hammer. The question I have is about power requirements. I've got 220 going to my shop, single phase only. The power is coming from the house through an 80amp breaker. I'm considering a self contained hammer with about 100 pound ram weight. I'm good at a lot of things, but electricity is black magic to me.
  9. Thanks, got the idea for the handle wrap from James Helm's video on cord wrapping.
  10. Just finished this up, still need to do the sheath. Forged 5160, 4 1/4" cutting edge, 9 1/2" overall length.
  11. Looking good, love the profile on both.
  12. Just make sure you put bolts in the holes for the die blocks. I didn't and didn't know they went all the way through. Lead started trickling out the holes as I was heating and had to stop and cool down and drill out and plug with bolts.
  13. Nice! I had the lead come loose on mine, it was bought second hand and had run for a couple of years before I got it, and run hard for several years after I got it. It eventually got to the point the block of lead was sliding up the hammer tube and smacking into the toggle arm pins while running. I plugged the lower die bolt holes with bolts and put the head over my turkey frier/scrap lead melter and remelted it. Afterward stuck a 1/8" plate down inside the tube and welded the corners so it couldn't move again.
  14. Try the New Mexico artist blacksmith association, don't know how far away they are from you, but you'll likely meat a few knife makers along with some blacksmith during one of their meetings. Also Google makers near you, and don't be afraid to give them a call and ask to visit. Worst they can do is say "no", and most of us enjoy the company. Also check out the different Facebook groups and see who's near you and ask to visit. Don't be a pest, but most makers enjoy teaching and visiting newbies. If you get an xxxx just write it off and go to the next maker. Just some ideas. Anyway, I
  15. No reason not to stock up now and save for later. The trouble with chains for damascus is it is another level up over basic layering. Same with quality wire rope damascus. But no reason not to rat hole what you can when you can as you will eventually use it, possibly sooner than you think. Probably the best thing is to visit a maker who is making damascus and see how they do it, or even better a couple of different makers. Hard to describe on line or in a video what 5 minutes in person can teach. One of ways I was taught to make damascus was the individual stacking of single pieces,
  16. You have a point, I am assuming that blade steel is the target, but that is not always the case. Reason I am assuming this is because of previous post talking about high carbon steels. It is a good thing to know how to weld wrought iron and mild steel, just saying to learn high carbon first, provided that's what you plan on doing. So, in other words, if you want even layers, start with thicker 1084 and thinner 15&20? Kinda what I was getting at. I might be wrong about the mechanics, stretching vs. carbon diffusion, vs. simple scaling, but if you start with the same thickness mater
  17. I have to call "nonsense" on the nickel alloy NOT stretching. I didn't say it would not draw, I said it will not draw as much. It will draw very nearly as much as the 1084/1080, but not quite. I have made enough damascus to prove this on more than one occasion. You start with the same thickness 15&20 and when you get to the higher layer counts it will be very slightly thicker than the 1080. When you first weld up a billet you can see on the edges that the 1084 has stretched more. I haven't messed with pure nickel much, but from what I've seen I doubt you will get carbon migration
  18. First, I don't know your experience with forging high carbon steel, so disregard if it doesn't apply to you. Forget forge welding mild steel or wrought iron for right now, you run high carbon to the temps needed for either and you'll burn it. It is a good skill to have, but learn to forge weld high carbon first if damascus is your target. The absolutely easiest way to weld a billet of damascus is to get a stack of 1084 and 15&20, sheared to length, 6"x 1 1/2", 1/8" thick on the 1084 and about .080 on the 15&20. Reason for the thicker 1084 is that the high nickel of 15&20 me
  19. I have been through the house and shop and can't find my plans for the life of me, which is very irritating as I normally keep all plans and equipment books together. I'll likely find them while looking for something else. Anyway, I'm needing to fab a new wedge for the top die, and while I can certainly figure it out from the old battered up one, I'd like to reference the plans first. Anybody got measurements for it? Thanks Never mind, I found them, figured as soon as I stopped looking I'd find them.
  20. Nice, love the shape and handle finish.
  21. Nice and clean, love the lines and I bet it's very comfortable to use.
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