will52100

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Everything posted by will52100

  1. Very cool, that pattern turned out great!
  2. Very funny, would not be the first time I used my ample belly to help bend something either.
  3. Cool story, I was afraid you'd used ball bearings for the balls, that's something a few welding shops down here used to do. I feel you on putting too much time and effort into something for a friend, I have to stop myself sometimes from going crazy with it.
  4. Thanks for the suggestions, especially the COSIRA blacksmith books, good information there. I had planned on A36, but now that yo mention it it'd be lots better to go with 1018. I use 1081 for hawks after a bad experience with A36 popping loose. Also have some A36 1" square bar that I got for hardy tools and it's more of a diamond shape than square while the 1018 is pretty much square. I used to work as a welder and at one point the owner was buying bent up scrap metal and below standard grade and it was a PITA to straighten out and use. Not a bad looking fence, what did you use for the balls on top? I rarely use rebar for anything other than billet handles, it's like when they re run it at the smelter they don't get it mixed properly and it's got hard and soft spots in it. I've seen the "tortionator" and liked it, but I don't see myself doing enough to justify building something like that. Maybe if I start getting a lot of orders, but for now I think you've all convinced me to stick with individual jigs and hot bending. If I wind up getting large orders I can always expand the tooling.
  5. Very true, thing is, I don't know what I need rite now as I've got a few projects in the back of my mind that if I ever get time I'll be working on. They will need several size scrolls one I get to designing the projects. That's one reason I was interested in the bender as it looks easy to adjust to different sizes. Having never used one I'm not so sure now if it's a project worth building. I can promise you down here there will not be much of a market for that kind of work, maybe a few pieces once in a while, but nothing steady. So basically it'll be for doing my own projects and once in a while selling a piece or such. I do have contacts with a sign company so it's possible that it might grow into something more, but it's still a very limited market. Most people's idea of a fence down here is barb wire. Last bit of scrolling I did the first one came out great, the next 3 or so not so much and then the rest matched up. Took me by surprise just how much material goes into scrolls. Great idea on cold hammering to alleviate stress, hadn't thought of that, but I've got a large air compressor so it would not be an issue to put pneumatic hammer to it, will have to give that a try.
  6. Not a problem, I tend to OCD and hard headed, but never claimed to be very smart either. I haven't tried ha penny ends yet, but I'm getting what your saying about clamping the ends. I haven't had an issue with that yet, so far just doing fish tails, starting the bend on the anvil and clamping in the jig with vise grips. The issue is the amount of fuel I use to make the bends, either gas for the torch or coal for the forge, most times both. Then I see people apparently making nice scrolls cold and figure I should be able to do the same. Unfortunately I'm thinking it's not as simple as they show to get good scrolls cold bent.
  7. You are correct, and I know I'll never get it within thousandths, but I don't want them to be obviously off either. But what you bring up about inconsistencies in A36 is something I should have considered, so if I'm understanding everybody correctly, heating and forming is more accurate than cold bending? So far I've been heating and bending, using the hammer and light blows to snug the scrolls up to the jig. They are not perfect, but not bad either. If that is the case then it's a fool's errand to chaise a way to cold bend them if I'm going to have to fight inconsistencies in the steel itself. What I'm trying to say, is that any time saved by bending cold is spent tweaking the finished product to fit properly and look good? Also, good point about the hammer and anvil, not a lathe and micrometer. Sometimes I get hung up on precision too much, which is one of the reasons I'm enjoying heating and beating on stuff. As long as I can stop myself from taking it to the grinder and putting a mirror finish or 2k hand rubbed finish.
  8. So in other words to get the accuracy I want I will have to go the heat and bend route? I had not thought of inconsistencies in A36, but should have. Thanks for the help and suggestions.
  9. I agree with you that low end is a trap. What I'm trying to say, and apparently badly, is that I am developing my skills and I am not going to be able to produce world class iron work at this time, though I will not offer junk either. I will do as I normally do and strive to constantly improve and make each new piece better than the last. I have no desire to compromise on quality either, but then I can not spend a month building something and then give it away for nothing and take a loss. I can and do price my work far below the time I have in it just to be able to sell some of it and pay for materials and consumables. Also you have to know your market, I sell 10 times as many basic hunters as I do mosaic damascus bowies. I do not skimp on quality or performance on the hunters, but I don't put mammoth ivory and mosaic damascus on them with silver sheaths either. I also try to improve upon the last one I did. I enjoy doing high end work, but the basic working knives are what pays the bills. I whole heartedly agree with you on not letting questionable work out either, every so often I test a blade to complete destruction, and often it's one that I though I could do better or have messed up some how and as you say, I do not wish to be haunted by a clunker years from now. What I was looking at the floor mounted type bender was easy repeatability and set up, not compromising on quality. I'm starting to think I'd be better off just building a complete scroll jig for each one I do as needed. From what I've seen there are a few traditional scrolling jigs that people bend the scroll cold. What bugs me about that, and I had hoped to eliminate, is the spring back causing the ratio to be off. I know it's not going to be perfect, but I can see minor deviations and they drive me nuts. Last time I built a scrolling jig I wound up drawing it out on poster paper and since it was for 3/8" bar stock I drew where the rod would go to try and eliminate any deviation in the scroll and built the jig from that drawing. As an example a friend of mine built a scrolling jig for a hand rail he was building and I could easily see something was off. The scroll matched his jig, and he'd supposedly laid it out correctly, but upon closer inspection we found a few area's that were off by about an 1/8" in a 10" scroll. That kind of thing drives my OCD nuts.
  10. Thanks for the head's up on the website, I've fixed the link. First, I thought I was being fairly straight forward, looking for plans for a Hossfield type bender to handle larger scrolls. Even posted a video of something similar to what I had in mind, even if not exactly what I was thinking. Would have been happy with most of the suggestions I've received so far. If all I was wanting was small scrolls out of thin stock I'd probably get a Harbor Freight bender with scrolling attachment. Second, I was jumped on in the 4th post for "wanting to make third world junk", I assure you I have way too much OCD to even think about letting junk out of my shop, and take way too much pride in my work. I too am not young anymore and can be prickly to comments like that from people I don't know, especially when I have tried to be respectful. Nor is it easy to judge tone and intent from typed words. Old and cranky is no excuse for lack of manners. Third, I was trying to meet you half way or better, and obviously failed, for that I apologize. I have been researching and do not wish others to do it for me, just to point me in the general direction or to give me a lead from there own experience. If it sounded otherwise, that was not my intention. Fourth, I guess there is such a thing as a dumb question. However, I fully intended to share any plans or information I found, including anything I build with the information. Due to the direction this thread is taking I would just as soon as let it die before going much further down this path as I'm not here for an argument or to upset the apple cart. Thank you for time gentlemen.
  11. Thank you for the suggestion to look around instead of having others do it for me, the thought never crossed my mind. I have been researching and coming up with nothing, otherwise I would not have asked. I have spent the last 15 years primarily focused on edged tools, just starting on architectural work and have a lot to learn. Part of asking for information is finding out where and what to look for. That said, I thank you whole heartedly for the information on the Uri Hofi blueprints, I will check them out, along with the link to the FABA. Thanks, Will
  12. I'll probably do something like this next time, he shows doing several different end profiles. The way I normally do it is I clamp the fish tail with a pair of vise grip. No reason you couldn't clamp a fish tail in a bender instead of straight flat, which I agree looks cheap and unfinished. My few scroll jigs I have currently are welded to sheet metal, I'll have to try something like this to see if I can do it accurately enough, I get nuts sometimes chasing the last few though trying to get a perfect ratio even though I know I'll never get it.
  13. Uh, you don't have to arc weld products for the least discriminating clientele. Also? Around these parts most people would rather buy tube steel factory crap for little money and watch it rot away. And you can arc weld it together and clean it up. Might not be 100% historically accurate, but until someone starts producing real wrought iron bar stock again then none of it is 100% historically accurate. I'm not planning on shipping world wide, I'll be lucky if I sell much of it at all, and am just starting with architectural iron work. Remember, for every Bill Moran or Ed Fowler there's 1000's of us that scrape by. I like the bender as it looks like it makes it easier to do scrolls, but I assure you I would forge the ends as I normally do. I just don't see a point in heating the entire bar to work it around my normal scrolling jigs as I'm doing now. Less fuel used and less time.
  14. Will give them a look. I've got a couple of scroll plates I've made, but nothing to bend cold.
  15. Anybody got plans for something like this? I'm pretty sure I can figure it out, but it'd be a huge time saver to have drawings to go by. Thanks
  16. Beautiful work, I've just started shaving with a straight razor and have been wanting to make a few.
  17. "it's the smith that matters" That is true to a point, but materials matter as well. To me, first and foremost is the heat treat. The finest high performance steel in the world hammered out on a magic anvil with a poor heat treat can be beaten by a simple steel like 1095 with an exceptional heat treat. Second is geometry, thin cuts better than thick, if your heat treat is good for the material your using, then you can go as thin as you can for the task. Don't put a super thin edge on a wood splitter, and don't put a thick edge on a slicer. I won't get into convex edge, hollow grind, etcetera, that's more to do with designed task than which is better. There is a fine balance between edge thickness and design and heat treat, I see a lot of knives with way too thick an edge. Third is material. Once you've got the first two then the differences in material can make a very noticeable difference. That said, there is little point in trying make a knife perform that is made from low carbon steel. Unless your maybe experimenting with carbonizing it or maybe experimenting with some form of magic super quench. But those activities are not best suited for beginners. If you want to learn to make knives, best to leave the RR spikes alone, if your wanting to blacksmith and do decorative ironwork then RR spikes are a source of good quality cheap steel. Nothing wrong with playing with RR spikes, or even making knives from them, I just don't recommend using them to learn blade smithing on. That said, my next set of BBQ tools will be made from RR spikes, been wanting to try doing the bull's head.
  18. You've got a good point that I hadn't considered. I started out with high carbon and knives and moved a little into decorative ironwork. The difference between something like 52100 and mild steel forging is very large to say the least. Mild steel moves like clay compared to some of the higher alloy knife steels.
  19. JHCC, what I meant by that was that you'd be just as well or better off using a bar of mild or wrought iron as your base for the knife.
  20. You can make a knife from a RR spike, and you can play tricks with super quench or water or whatever to give it a marginal edge. Will it make a good knife? No. Most people I see buying RR spike knives do it for letter openers and the novelty of it. Will it skin a deer? Yes, but then so would a hammered out brass shell casing. RR spikes can be fun to play with, but the simple fact is they lack enough carbon to make a decent knife. I have seen some that had a high carbon or damascus edge welded on and have been wanting to try that myself but haven't had time. I have even seen some high carbon damascus RR spikes made and then forged into knives. I didn't see the video, but I did see an article from Wayne Goddard about a student passing the free hanging rope test with a dead soft mild steel blade, it folded over in the 2x4 test. The free hanging rope test is more about sharpness, geometry and speed of swing than steel or hardness. I've seen dull to the touch European swords cut mats with a single swing. As for the chop test, would like to examine the edge before and after chopping with a radio shack hand held microscope, think it's something like 30 power? There are a lot of things you can do with RR spikes, making a decent knife is not one of them. Even if you add a high carbon edge your still left with an overly heavy handle and poor balance, and is a novelty item would hold a decent edge. If you forge the head and tang out and add a traditional handle, then what's the point?
  21. Never dealt with them, but from there web page it looks like there on the soft side, but the price is very attractive if its new or near new condition. I worked for many years on a soft anvil and while not as much fun as a hard one, it'll get the job done.
  22. I don't use much liquid nitrogen, primarily for the little bit of stainless I do. I used to take a metal thermos with the cap seal removed so it could vent, and placed in a 5 gallon bucket wrapped with towels. It used to cost me like 4$ to fill and it'd last a couple of days with blades in it. Unfortunately Airgas bought out the welding supply where I got it and there a bunch of arrogant jerks and I refuse to do business with them. They and most other suppliers refuse to fill anything but a LN dewar. I've got an old one, my father used to AI when he was dairying, it's vacuum has leaked out, but it'll still hold LN for about 30 days, it was a 60 day tank. Of course that's just sitting, the more you open and put room temp blades in the faster it evaporates. I've looked at getting a smaller tank with a large mouth, but the prices are insane. A safety note, don't transport LN or dry ice in an inclosed vehicle, put it in the back of a truck, as it evaporates it displaces oxygen and can suffocate you. A wreck with LN can also be a very bad thing, there was a driver that filled tanks at different farms and had a wreck, he was a popsicle.
  23. Great video, seen it before but had to watch it again, glad it was recorded. Would love to have one of those pieces of history.