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I Forge Iron

will52100

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Everything posted by will52100

  1. Test them. I've found with the steels I use and either my toaster oven or my Paragon, if I do three, 2 hour temper cycles I can use a lower temp and still maintain flexibility. I don't KNOW that you've softened them, but they would be suspect until tested. The brass rod test will tell you more than any rockwell tester, and a cheap Radio Shack pocket microscope to inspect the edge is handy as well. I don't necessarily think it's the temperature and time alone that is the issue, more likely the cycling of the oven. In my toaster oven I have a 3/8" thick chunk of plate to hold heat and e
  2. Not a problem. Would also add that there's a lot of hammers running with timbers between the foundation and hammer, like I said, many ways of doing the job and most work fine.
  3. Part of it was due to welding, I am a welder and am aware of how and how much metal shrinks. Part was due to not being solidly mounted and wobbling on the concrete and dishing towards the edges, you could see the wear marks on the base when I laid the hammer in the back of my truck to transport. It was not major cupping, but when your used to looked at straight edges and angles it pops out at you. If it'd been solidly mounted to a concrete slab it'd most likely been OK. The original owner did not run it nearly as hard as I've run mine, with me it gets no mercy. To the point where I need t
  4. If your going by the Spencer plans and using 1/2" plate, I'd highly recommend going thicker. Several years ago, before he offered plans and was doing build workshops, I finally wound up buying one as I never could get time off to go to a build. Anyway, the 1/2" plate was cupping up from the anvil and the square tubing from not being mounted and just sitting on a concrete slab. It wasn't heavily used either. When I got it home I welded it to a thicker and larger plate, left the 1/2" in place and added to it, welding around the perimeter and a few plug welds. And mounted to a large concrete
  5. Love the leaf candle holders as well, very nice hammer control!
  6. Nice work, and the basket looks great.
  7. Thanks, I'm going to check into trying to override and learn how to properly use the iPhone's camera, there also are apparently different lenses you can clip on. As an aside, the inspiration for this holder was made after watching a couple different youtube video's by purgatoryironworks and Kovko Kova4.
  8. Thanks. You know, I never did have a lot of trouble with the old 35mm SLR camera, but for the life of me can't get the cell camera to take decent pics.
  9. Just finished this up, a little out of the ordinary for me, but been wanting to try something like this for a while. Uses standard household candles, sheet metal cup and holder are riveted on. Got to get a better camera, or else learn to use the iPhone's camera better one.
  10. Looks good, loved the video, thanks for sharing.
  11. Very cool, that pattern turned out great!
  12. Very funny, would not be the first time I used my ample belly to help bend something either.
  13. Cool story, I was afraid you'd used ball bearings for the balls, that's something a few welding shops down here used to do. I feel you on putting too much time and effort into something for a friend, I have to stop myself sometimes from going crazy with it.
  14. Thanks for the suggestions, especially the COSIRA blacksmith books, good information there. I had planned on A36, but now that yo mention it it'd be lots better to go with 1018. I use 1081 for hawks after a bad experience with A36 popping loose. Also have some A36 1" square bar that I got for hardy tools and it's more of a diamond shape than square while the 1018 is pretty much square. I used to work as a welder and at one point the owner was buying bent up scrap metal and below standard grade and it was a PITA to straighten out and use. Not a bad looking fence, what did you use for t
  15. Very true, thing is, I don't know what I need rite now as I've got a few projects in the back of my mind that if I ever get time I'll be working on. They will need several size scrolls one I get to designing the projects. That's one reason I was interested in the bender as it looks easy to adjust to different sizes. Having never used one I'm not so sure now if it's a project worth building. I can promise you down here there will not be much of a market for that kind of work, maybe a few pieces once in a while, but nothing steady. So basically it'll be for doing my own projects and once in
  16. Not a problem, I tend to OCD and hard headed, but never claimed to be very smart either. I haven't tried ha penny ends yet, but I'm getting what your saying about clamping the ends. I haven't had an issue with that yet, so far just doing fish tails, starting the bend on the anvil and clamping in the jig with vise grips. The issue is the amount of fuel I use to make the bends, either gas for the torch or coal for the forge, most times both. Then I see people apparently making nice scrolls cold and figure I should be able to do the same. Unfortunately I'm thinking it's not as simple as
  17. You are correct, and I know I'll never get it within thousandths, but I don't want them to be obviously off either. But what you bring up about inconsistencies in A36 is something I should have considered, so if I'm understanding everybody correctly, heating and forming is more accurate than cold bending? So far I've been heating and bending, using the hammer and light blows to snug the scrolls up to the jig. They are not perfect, but not bad either. If that is the case then it's a fool's errand to chaise a way to cold bend them if I'm going to have to fight inconsistencies in the steel it
  18. So in other words to get the accuracy I want I will have to go the heat and bend route? I had not thought of inconsistencies in A36, but should have. Thanks for the help and suggestions.
  19. I agree with you that low end is a trap. What I'm trying to say, and apparently badly, is that I am developing my skills and I am not going to be able to produce world class iron work at this time, though I will not offer junk either. I will do as I normally do and strive to constantly improve and make each new piece better than the last. I have no desire to compromise on quality either, but then I can not spend a month building something and then give it away for nothing and take a loss. I can and do price my work far below the time I have in it just to be able to sell some of it and pay
  20. Thanks for the head's up on the website, I've fixed the link. First, I thought I was being fairly straight forward, looking for plans for a Hossfield type bender to handle larger scrolls. Even posted a video of something similar to what I had in mind, even if not exactly what I was thinking. Would have been happy with most of the suggestions I've received so far. If all I was wanting was small scrolls out of thin stock I'd probably get a Harbor Freight bender with scrolling attachment. Second, I was jumped on in the 4th post for "wanting to make third world junk", I assure you I h
  21. Thank you for the suggestion to look around instead of having others do it for me, the thought never crossed my mind. I have been researching and coming up with nothing, otherwise I would not have asked. I have spent the last 15 years primarily focused on edged tools, just starting on architectural work and have a lot to learn. Part of asking for information is finding out where and what to look for. That said, I thank you whole heartedly for the information on the Uri Hofi blueprints, I will check them out, along with the link to the FABA. Thanks, Will
  22. I'll probably do something like this next time, he shows doing several different end profiles. The way I normally do it is I clamp the fish tail with a pair of vise grip. No reason you couldn't clamp a fish tail in a bender instead of straight flat, which I agree looks cheap and unfinished. My few scroll jigs I have currently are welded to sheet metal, I'll have to try something like this to see if I can do it accurately enough, I get nuts sometimes chasing the last few though trying to get a perfect ratio even though I know I'll never get it.
  23. Uh, you don't have to arc weld products for the least discriminating clientele. Also? Around these parts most people would rather buy tube steel factory crap for little money and watch it rot away. And you can arc weld it together and clean it up. Might not be 100% historically accurate, but until someone starts producing real wrought iron bar stock again then none of it is 100% historically accurate. I'm not planning on shipping world wide, I'll be lucky if I sell much of it at all, and am just starting with architectural iron work. Remember, for every Bill Moran or Ed Fowler there's 10
  24. Will give them a look. I've got a couple of scroll plates I've made, but nothing to bend cold.
  25. Anybody got plans for something like this? I'm pretty sure I can figure it out, but it'd be a huge time saver to have drawings to go by. Thanks
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