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I Forge Iron


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Everything posted by will52100

  1. Thanks, do you seal it up air tight? I hadn't thought of adding powdered metal, figured it'd be too close a match with the cable alloy unless you maybe used nickel alloy powder. Hmm, maybe a bunch of loose strands in a high nickel powder? May have to give that a try one day. Do you twist while in the can, or after initial welding? I've tried new and old and have had a lot better results with new cable, but only after about 60-70% reduction. I'm about 50/50 when doing a single piece by hand. Really irritating to be doing the final grinding and find a flaw. Got some that's got a stri
  2. Awesome! Love the handle/guard flow into the blade, and a very nice ladder pattern as well.
  3. Nice! Got a description of your can welding method? I've done a few billets with powdered metal, but never tried cable in it. I have a love/hate relationship with wire rope damascus. Partially I'm super intolerant of any pin holes or flaws. I get pretty decent success by cutting into 6" lengths and stacking 9 or so pieces together and welding in squaring dies on the press. That's after letting the pieces soak in diesel for a week or two and sometimes taking the wire apart to get rid of any crud or the occasional paper tag. I hate getting a flaw, but when everything goes right I love the
  4. I really like either leaf spring, most likely 5160, or 1084 new stock. I normally use 1/4" stock and forge it to a taper. The one real weird failure I've had is with 0-1, after forge welding and heat treating I found it was split down the center of the 0-1 bit. The wrought iron welded perfectly, but the 0-1 itself came apart. It was not over heated and I've welded 0-1 into damascus with no issues, not sure what happened here.
  5. Got it from Dick from Sady Grove, he's where I got my other Refflinghaus, a 330 pound german pattern. Good to do business with, his health isn't the best, but he's hanging in there. Here's a link to where I found them, not sure of the price conversions, but mine is the 275 pounder(125 kilogram) and it cost me 2400$ shipped to the local Wards, delivery driver couldn't find my house so I drove 5 miles and picked it up. http://kowalperun.com/professional-anvils-ernst-refflinghaus-with-one-or-two-horns/17-hornless-anvils-ernst-refflinghaus.html
  6. Actually just a traditional hornless anvil, Refflinghaus makes two versions, flat top and a crowned top, four weights, 275 lbs, 330 lbs, 440 lbs, 628 lbs. Would love to have the 440 pounder, but that's getting just a little outside my price range for a finish anvil. Of course there's no reason not to use as a sawyer's anvil, but Refflinghaus is the only current maker I could find still making hornless anvils. Had to wait about a year for it to get here as well after ordering.
  7. Just got this in the other day and mounted. 275 pound anvil, face hardness reads 60 rockwell. Face is 10 5/8" long, 6 1/4" wide and perfectly flat. Been wanting something like this for over 15 years. Base is constructed from 3/8"x2" angle, 3/8"x2" flat bar and the sides are 1/4" sheet, top is 1" plate. Whole thing is filled with concrete and the base weights about 350 pounds.
  8. Thanks, she liked, said it was more than she had in mind, but I looked at it as a way to try something different. Not a bouncer, to old and crippled up to be busting heads anymore. Though if the oilfield doesn't pick up soon I may have to look into it.
  9. I posted pics over in "members projects", I tried to post a link, but for some reason couldn't get it to work.
  10. My mother asked me to make her a trellis for a couple of rose bushes. I am primarily a blade smith, but have been playing with a little decorative iron work. This is the first architectural iron work I've done. Took way longer to figure out what I wanted to do than to actually build it. All the scrolls are 3/8" round bar with fish tails, 4-1 ratio, same for the C scrolls on the wide sections. Dimensions are 7' tall, 9' long, 12" wide and 24" thick. The square bar is 1/2" with interrupted twist every 12". It's made in 3 pieces and bolted together for easy transport. It's arc welded toge
  11. Easy way to tell, pre-heat and weld a handle on, bring up to forging temp, no hotter than 1625 deg. F., and hammer on it for a couple of hours. If at the end of a couple of hours it's a slightly squarish ball, then it's likely it's 52100. If it's a nice square or even drawn out, then it's something else. It's subject to be 52100, but it could also be 440c, or any variation of steel out there. Only way to really know is forge out a blade and heat treat it and test it.
  12. One possibility that has ben mentioned, it may just be grinding burs that are planishing down Depending on the grit and how hard and fast it was ground, the burs could be quite soft from the heat of grinding and there tiny cross section while the anvil surface proper could be quite hard. If that is the case it should be nearly impossible to measure the dent or mark as it's basically just planishing the "fuzz' on the surface. If you miss with my Refflinghaus anvil you'd better not have your head in the way or your going to eat the hammer. I have a Peddinghaus hammer and it won't mark it
  13. Finally got done with it, was trying to figure out what would look good on the wide sections and finally went with large C scrolls. Just need to sand blast and paint, will probably do that in a few days when the humidity drops somewhere below 99%. Anyway, what I did was draw a box on a piece of sheet metal and used my stencil to rotate until it touched the confines then marked that out and did the other side and measured the length needed. I played around with a string and wire, but finally just made a scroll measuring tool, just a 2 1/2" pizza cutter style tool with a hole in it and us
  14. What I wound up doing is making a pattern from poster paper and cut out the thickness of the bar to form a stencil. I used that to line up between where I wanted and made a master pattern, then another scroll forming tool to match. Kind of a long way around to get it done, but now I can turn the other 19 scrolls out pretty easy.
  15. Funny, don't think any computer would last long in my shop, hot work or finishing area. Anyway I finally got it, just took a little drawing and laying out in full size.
  16. Thanks, price really isn't a big concern, this is a trellis for my mother, and it gives me a project to expand my skills as I've never done architectural iron work before. And she's not that much of a gardener, most times there will be little if any roses growing up it. I think I've got how to do it, just wish I had more room to lay out everything.
  17. Thanks, just kind of a pain trying to figure from scratch. I'll get there though.
  18. True, and I'm too far out of date on computers to screw with it. I was hoping there'd be something simple like the way you do a 4-1 scroll as parts of a 90 deg. curve.
  19. Thanks, so far if I do get it too fit it's going to be some combination of ratio's. I was hoping there was an easier way of figuring for inside rails, but I'll keep drawing till I get what I'm after.
  20. I'm building a rose trellis and want to add scroll work to the inside of the frame. Trouble is, with a double scroll from 3/8" round I'm getting about 9 1/2" width, and I need 10 1/2" It's a 4-1 scroll, I've done a couple of patterns in 3-1 but no dice. Surely there is a formula or method for doing scrolls inside fixed rails. I could do a large and small scroll, but I'm wanting the scroll work as reinforcement as well. Basic design is two uprights, C shaped footprint vs complete square, with a double arch between them. Thanks
  21. Thanks, that's what I was looking for. Looks like you clamp the end to start the scroll? I've been thinking about something like that with maybe a pin to hold the starting end in place. Or maybe like the last photo it looks like a hook forged in and looped over the start. Thanks, this is my first real architectural blacksmith project.
  22. My mother has asked me to build a rose trellis, and it's going to be a large monstrosity, basically 2' wide, 1' thick, 7' high, and 9' long. I'm building it from 1/2" square bar, and will be doing scrolls from 3/8" round bar in between the 1/2" square bar. I'm looking for a way to make repeatable scrolls, or a scrolling jig. I've got an idea of how I want to built it, and I can draw a scroll, but I'm looking for decent pics or tips on how to build the jig. I have gas and coal forge, oxy/propane torch, electric welder, and other metal working equipment. I guess I could forge them all b
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