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Everything posted by will52100

  1. I imagine it does cook it away, but would leave a residue that the flux has a hard time eating away, or at least that's the theory. Most likely will turn to carbon and tarnish the surface, and as much as I hate to sand tarnish off, I hate sanding solder off even more. Lora Schwarzer was where I got the idea from, she makes beautiful Scagal style knives.
  2. One other suggestion I learned recently at a hammer in, use a sharpie to color all around the face of the guard except maybe 1/16" where the ricasso goes. Apparently the sharpie will keep the solder from sticking and make clean up a lot easier. Haven't tried it yet, so not sure how well it'll work.
  3. will52100

    Proper tools

    I would not recommend making tongs to a beginner, but I myself do recommend learning how. Maybe not in the first 10 things to learn, but it's a good skill to have. I've probably got 40 tongs, and it never fails I do't have the one I need at some point and have to make one. A good place to start is the Quick Tongs. I know the purist will poo poo them, but it's the kind of idea that I wish I'd come up with. And if it wasn't for the shipping cost I'd have a dozen or so just sitting around waiting for the next time I needed a new set for something. That said, I figured its faster and easier for me with a treadle hammer and power hammer to make a jig to knock out what I need than to burn them out of plate with the torch. I do not particularly like making tongs, but I'm too broke to run out and pay 40$ for a set that may or may not fit exactly what I need it for, and to wait for the mail to deliver it. I'm also not overly concerned about making them pretty. I do as good a job as I can, but there are some people out there that have elevated it to an art form, I just want them to be comfortable, hold securely, and last a long time. I do try and make each one better than the last, but I don't get crazy if it's not quite as pretty as some people's tongs.
  4. Will check and see if my library can get a copy, or if I can download a copy off the net.
  5. Will have to see if I can get a copy some where, amazon is out, 300.00 plus for a copy!
  6. Squared it up on the press, then punched and drifted by hand, did the cheeks and indents and round face on the treadle hammer. My knee was aching for a couple of days, it did not seem to want to move. Best I can tell, it's 1045, or close to it.
  7. Just finished this the other day, forged from 3" hydraulic shaft, man that 3" thick stuff is a lot harder to move than 2 1/2"! Anyway, it works great and is fast becoming my favorite hammer.
  8. I built a Claiborn style H frame, overbuilt the frame, but used small channel iron for the ram guides, bend them and went with 1/2" x 4" flat bar, and am bending it, not bad, but enough to get out of square, need to use heavy angle or larger bracing. I don't think it's possible to overbuild a hydraulic forging press.
  9. For welding? Actually, pretty much zero, at least in theory. Your not squashing the metal together to make it weld, your getting everything in contact so that it can weld. In reality, however, even if you run the pieces through a surface grinder you've got irregularities and imperfections, not to mention flux or crud that needs to be squeezed out, so you need to squish everything together. Check out vacuum welding for more info, it's the oxides that keep a hammer set down on a steel table from welding at room temp, if it was perfectly clean in a vacuum it'd be tack welded just from contact, this is a real issue NASA has. One of the ways I was taught to forge weld, and I teach other's to forge weld, is to make "frontier damascus", just start with a large piece of steel, put a slightly smaller piece on it and bring up to heat and weld with the hammer. It shows that it doesn't take much force, as all your really doing is getting the metal into solid contact with each other. Heavy hammer blow, or a 50 ton press will not weld any better if it's not at temp and clean, than just heavy enough blows to squish crud out and bring the metal into contact. If your pieces are clean and fairly flat, it really doesn't take much force at all to weld up solid. 4.5 ton will do it, (I've seen people weld small billets in a bench vise) but I'd likely do two welding heats or more. You'll have to learn your machine. When I built my press I've got it set for 20 ton, though I could crank it up to 25. I primarily weld with it and do some forming, but mainly welding and doing mosaic damascus. I really recommend 20 tons or more, with a two stage pump, not for welding, but for welding larger billets and other operations, and with a press it's always a balance between speed and pressure, read up here and else where, James Batson's "Build your own hydraulic forging press" has a lot of good info, and there are a lot of work in progress presses out there. Build heavier than you think it will need and it might be strong enough.
  10. I don't do much soldering anymore, if my fit is tight enough I do a solderless press fit with JB weld as a sealer. The shoulders keep the guard from going forward, the handle keeps it from going back, the solder or JB weld keeps out moister. Done rite, both have plenty of strength without a handle and should not just tap loose. First, lose the plumber's solder and get something like Stay Bright silver solder. You can solder with lead/tin, but it'll grey out and doesn't like higher alloy steels, especially stainless, and you need a stronger flux. Next, make your joint as tight as possible with a little room at the back, and surgically clean and bright. Sounds like your heating correctly, the way I do it is to clamp the blade sideways and heat from the back side of the guard with a strip of solder on the front side. I take a strip of solder, about 1/32" diameter, lightly run it through some 220 or 320 sandpaper to take any oxides off, bend into a U shape and fit as close to the joint as I can. Wet with liquid flux, it comes with the kit, and heat till the solder flows. Don't over heat. After all is said and done and I've scraped the guard close with a brass chisel and clean up a bit I boil in a can of water with baking soda to kill any flux residue. If you don't you could have trapped flux and it'll weep out and cause rust spots in the future. After that I finish everything up. The aggravation of going back over a blade and solder joint to finish and having to neutralize acid flux is one reason I've went to solderless guards. The only one I don't do it on is the Loveless style full tang guard that fits into a notch on one side and is open at the top, I haven't been able to get as close a fit as I want for solderless yet.
  11. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=10m3zkXxTOg https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-fjHgZH-dnM I got a lot of ideas from this guy, don't speak Russian, but a pic is worth a thousand words. I primarily use it with a ring to make candle stick cups.
  12. Nothing fancy, one I did several years ago for my wood heater. Just a turned red oak handle. drilled a 3/8 hole most of the way through, tapered the end of the poker and squared it, ground off the scale and epoxied it in place. I set it up so the epoxy would have a little room, and the start of the square taper is just inside the drilled hole of the handle for a tight fit. Been working good for 7-8 years now. Wish I'd done an oil finish on the handle, but so far the poly is doing OK. If I was to do a fancy version I'd likely make ferrules and use something other than red oak.
  13. Yup, even with the Paragon I use a temp gauge, and for sure use one on the toaster oven. Even so, still test the edge.
  14. Kinda doubt it needs more tempering. Just saying, test the edge. I do that anyway on every one even if I'm 100% sure of the heat treat.
  15. "The big thing about working in a traditional manner is that your shop should have at least 5 trained strikers in it. Any show with just 1 smith in it is working in the MODERN way." Couldn't agree more. Very nice axe, I've been wanting to try one like that for a while.
  16. Test them. I've found with the steels I use and either my toaster oven or my Paragon, if I do three, 2 hour temper cycles I can use a lower temp and still maintain flexibility. I don't KNOW that you've softened them, but they would be suspect until tested. The brass rod test will tell you more than any rockwell tester, and a cheap Radio Shack pocket microscope to inspect the edge is handy as well. I don't necessarily think it's the temperature and time alone that is the issue, more likely the cycling of the oven. In my toaster oven I have a 3/8" thick chunk of plate to hold heat and even out the temp swings. Both it and my Paragon run full blast until set temp is reached, then cycles on and off at full power to maintain the temp. Neither oven is perfect about maintaining temp, both rise and fall a little, and that may be what's causing the blades to be softer the longer they are in the oven. Long winded way of saying, sharpen and test, if the edge stays flexed during the brass rod test, you need to re harden. If it chips, raise your tempering temp a bit and re test. Also, if you have a fairly thin edge to start with, you might want to take a little off before testing as the thin section gets hotter quicker and may have tempered more.
  17. Not a problem. Would also add that there's a lot of hammers running with timbers between the foundation and hammer, like I said, many ways of doing the job and most work fine.
  18. Part of it was due to welding, I am a welder and am aware of how and how much metal shrinks. Part was due to not being solidly mounted and wobbling on the concrete and dishing towards the edges, you could see the wear marks on the base when I laid the hammer in the back of my truck to transport. It was not major cupping, but when your used to looked at straight edges and angles it pops out at you. If it'd been solidly mounted to a concrete slab it'd most likely been OK. The original owner did not run it nearly as hard as I've run mine, with me it gets no mercy. To the point where I need to once again resurface the dies due to wear. Here's the thing, the 1/2" plate is what I'd consider minimal for a hammer base. It's what I'd consider barely adequate. I can't remember all the math as it's been a while since I researched it, but part of your anvil weight comes from a percentage of your base. The anvil on the tire hammer is minimal as is, and any extra weight you give it will help. That includes the concrete slab it's mounted to as well. I will mention that I have run mine hard, to the point I found many of the builder's weak welds and had to repair. Have not had too many problems with it, so it's a good design. I did have the lead in the head come loose. Re melted that and welded a cap on the inside so if it does come loose again it's not going anywhere. If was was pouring lead in a new head I'd likely put in a couple cross bars to pour around to lock everything in. All I did was use what I had on hand. If I was to do it from scratch I'd go with 3/4", or preferably 1" thick to start with base plate. What I did was simply place the hammer on a couple pieces of 1/2"x24"x36" plate I had laying around and welded together. I didn't bother shortening the plate, just stacked up, drilled a few 1" holes in the top piece to plug weld, think I did two or three roughly in the center. Grind any high spots and set the hammer on. Weld it through the existing bolt holes and then weld around the perimeter of the whole mess. It would have been easier if I'd had one thick piece of plate, but I used what I had. Drilled 4 bolt holes and made a rebar frame work to sit in the concrete and welded long bolts to the rebar cage. After pouring the slab I had 4 bolts sticking up. Slab was about 30"x40" and about foot deep, smithy floor is clay gravel, so I didn't use forms, just dug down and used the dirt as a form. Wish I'd put a little forming at the top just to neaten everything up though. I used a tractor and front end loader to set the hammer down on the bolts, with a couple layers of tar paper between the slab and base plate, and tightened everything down. If I was building from scratch, most likely I'd try and get my hands on 1" thick plate, make it the same size as Clay calls for and forget about it. I'd likely make the anvil a little larger as well, provided I could find the steel for a reasonable price, possibly adding a few heavy braces for weight and to spread the load out. One other possibility I'd consider, I'd look into using commercial power hammer dies instead of the bolt on's. The bolt on's work well, but can be a pain to change, to the point that I don't bother changing them unless I have to. Might or might not would go that way, would have to do a lot of thinking and planing to make the dove tails before doing it. The other thing I did while I had the linkage apart to fix the lead was to add grease zerks to the linkage pivots. It works, but not sure if it's better than spraying silicon in oil holes or not, and it takes a while to warm up on cold days. What I used for underlayment was to use a rebar cage with long bolts welded to it. I also put 4 nuts on and set to set flush with the concrete surface. Put grease on the bolt threads when mixing and pouring your slab, after the slab is finished and set you simply wipe the grease and concrete residue off, maybe a little wire brushing for good measure. Since the base I welded to was fairly flat, I just put a couple layers of tar paper down and bolted everything solid. If I'd had more cupping on the base plate I'd likely have mixed up a thin sand/portland cement mix and grouted the surface and set the hammer down on it and lightly running the hammer to settle it and let it dry before bolting solid. Hope this helps, and remember, there's more than one way to skin a cat. I don't know your skill level at welding so please don't take this the wrong way, but when welding around the perimeter of the plates I had everything tacked in place and would weld a rod or two on one side, then go to the other side to help prevent warpage. Also had them clamped together while tacking.
  19. If your going by the Spencer plans and using 1/2" plate, I'd highly recommend going thicker. Several years ago, before he offered plans and was doing build workshops, I finally wound up buying one as I never could get time off to go to a build. Anyway, the 1/2" plate was cupping up from the anvil and the square tubing from not being mounted and just sitting on a concrete slab. It wasn't heavily used either. When I got it home I welded it to a thicker and larger plate, left the 1/2" in place and added to it, welding around the perimeter and a few plug welds. And mounted to a large concrete foundation, hits hard, doesn't walk around or vibrate, and no more flexing of the base plate.
  20. Love the leaf candle holders as well, very nice hammer control!
  21. Nice work, and the basket looks great.
  22. Thanks, I'm going to check into trying to override and learn how to properly use the iPhone's camera, there also are apparently different lenses you can clip on. As an aside, the inspiration for this holder was made after watching a couple different youtube video's by purgatoryironworks and Kovko Kova4.
  23. Thanks. You know, I never did have a lot of trouble with the old 35mm SLR camera, but for the life of me can't get the cell camera to take decent pics.
  24. Just finished this up, a little out of the ordinary for me, but been wanting to try something like this for a while. Uses standard household candles, sheet metal cup and holder are riveted on. Got to get a better camera, or else learn to use the iPhone's camera better one.