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will52100

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Everything posted by will52100

  1. Just finished this yesterday, 6/8 blade, 3" long, 400 layers of 1084 and 15&20 twist damascus, half hollow (smallest contact whee I have is 8"), maroon linen mycarta scales and spacer, brass pins and washers. Shaves well, though it needs a little more stoning. This is my second razor, and while it's got a few things I would do different next time, it's not bad and a big improvement over my first. The biggest thing is I want to get a smaller contact wheel and go for a 1/4 grind. I tried to get a decent pic of the edge thinness, but it's hard to see how thin it is.
  2. Very nice work, and love the safety. I've been trying to figure out a method of putting a safety on liner locks myself, but haven't settled on one yet.
  3. Well, I've got a 2 and 3 pound and 7 pound, now I just need something in between like say 4-4 1/2 pound. The larger the stock the easier it is, but I had a couple friends over a few weeks ago and we forged 3 and 3 1/2 pounders out of 1 3/8 axel shaft, just had to cut long and upset, kinda a pain, but that's the beauty of metal working, you make the material fit you, not you fit the material.
  4. Used a swedge block, tried a cupping hardy at first, but it was too small and started to pinch the edges.
  5. That's what I like about it, you can just lift it and drop it and it does the work and with a good anvil the rebound helps you lift it again.
  6. I understand the difference, but the terms solder and silver solder and silver braze is used so indiscriminately now to describe several different heat and strength ranges that I ask for heat range any more instead of silver solder or braze just to be sure of what I'm getting. You are correct that -100 is not cryo in the proper sense of the word, but knife makers usefully use the term, incorrectly, for dry ice and kerosene as part of the heat treat. I never said I would not do an interference fit, just that I'd be cautious about it, namely that there is little reason to go -100 deg.
  7. Granted it's not as cold as liquid nitrogen, but it's still considered cryo and as long as you get the blade below -100 deg. it's still doing it's job. I did not say it would not work, just that I would not risk it with stainless, or carbon steel for that mater, as blades below -100 are very brittle, and the sudden temp change of a hot guard could cause a fracture at the junction, and if you decide to give it a little tap to seat the guard it could fracture as well. 20-25 degree in the kitchen freezer on the other hand will cause enough shrinkage to allow an interference fit with a guard tha
  8. I am no expert by any means on stainless, do only a handful every so often as I much prefer carbon steel. Anyway, I would not sub zero a blade and slip a hot guard on, might be OK, but could cause the stainless to fracture at the junction from thermal expansion. Like I said, it might work, but my experience with cryo shows that the critical point is not the cooling down, but the warming back to room temp where if it's shocked it likes to break. Should work fine at regular refrigerator/freezer freezer temps and warming the guard. I'm not up on stainless braze, I use silver braze on some
  9. The solder is less important than a flux that will etch the metal. Regular old past flux won't cut it on higher alloy and stainless steels, and a good solder like stay brite will not only flow well and have more holding strength than lead solder, but it stays bright and shiny longer instead of turning grey. I've never used a solder stop, but I would be willing to bet that the sharpie trick works well as it came from a maker that I respect both as a person and there craftsmanship. If they say it works then I'd be willing to give it a try. I have a feeling it's pretty much doing the same
  10. I imagine it does cook it away, but would leave a residue that the flux has a hard time eating away, or at least that's the theory. Most likely will turn to carbon and tarnish the surface, and as much as I hate to sand tarnish off, I hate sanding solder off even more. Lora Schwarzer was where I got the idea from, she makes beautiful Scagal style knives.
  11. One other suggestion I learned recently at a hammer in, use a sharpie to color all around the face of the guard except maybe 1/16" where the ricasso goes. Apparently the sharpie will keep the solder from sticking and make clean up a lot easier. Haven't tried it yet, so not sure how well it'll work.
  12. I would not recommend making tongs to a beginner, but I myself do recommend learning how. Maybe not in the first 10 things to learn, but it's a good skill to have. I've probably got 40 tongs, and it never fails I do't have the one I need at some point and have to make one. A good place to start is the Quick Tongs. I know the purist will poo poo them, but it's the kind of idea that I wish I'd come up with. And if it wasn't for the shipping cost I'd have a dozen or so just sitting around waiting for the next time I needed a new set for something. That said, I figured its faster and easier
  13. Will check and see if my library can get a copy, or if I can download a copy off the net.
  14. Will have to see if I can get a copy some where, amazon is out, 300.00 plus for a copy!
  15. Squared it up on the press, then punched and drifted by hand, did the cheeks and indents and round face on the treadle hammer. My knee was aching for a couple of days, it did not seem to want to move. Best I can tell, it's 1045, or close to it.
  16. Just finished this the other day, forged from 3" hydraulic shaft, man that 3" thick stuff is a lot harder to move than 2 1/2"! Anyway, it works great and is fast becoming my favorite hammer.
  17. I built a Claiborn style H frame, overbuilt the frame, but used small channel iron for the ram guides, bend them and went with 1/2" x 4" flat bar, and am bending it, not bad, but enough to get out of square, need to use heavy angle or larger bracing. I don't think it's possible to overbuild a hydraulic forging press.
  18. For welding? Actually, pretty much zero, at least in theory. Your not squashing the metal together to make it weld, your getting everything in contact so that it can weld. In reality, however, even if you run the pieces through a surface grinder you've got irregularities and imperfections, not to mention flux or crud that needs to be squeezed out, so you need to squish everything together. Check out vacuum welding for more info, it's the oxides that keep a hammer set down on a steel table from welding at room temp, if it was perfectly clean in a vacuum it'd be tack welded just from contact
  19. I don't do much soldering anymore, if my fit is tight enough I do a solderless press fit with JB weld as a sealer. The shoulders keep the guard from going forward, the handle keeps it from going back, the solder or JB weld keeps out moister. Done rite, both have plenty of strength without a handle and should not just tap loose. First, lose the plumber's solder and get something like Stay Bright silver solder. You can solder with lead/tin, but it'll grey out and doesn't like higher alloy steels, especially stainless, and you need a stronger flux. Next, make your joint as tight as possi
  20. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=10m3zkXxTOg https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-fjHgZH-dnM I got a lot of ideas from this guy, don't speak Russian, but a pic is worth a thousand words. I primarily use it with a ring to make candle stick cups.
  21. Nothing fancy, one I did several years ago for my wood heater. Just a turned red oak handle. drilled a 3/8 hole most of the way through, tapered the end of the poker and squared it, ground off the scale and epoxied it in place. I set it up so the epoxy would have a little room, and the start of the square taper is just inside the drilled hole of the handle for a tight fit. Been working good for 7-8 years now. Wish I'd done an oil finish on the handle, but so far the poly is doing OK. If I was to do a fancy version I'd likely make ferrules and use something other than red oak.
  22. Yup, even with the Paragon I use a temp gauge, and for sure use one on the toaster oven. Even so, still test the edge.
  23. Kinda doubt it needs more tempering. Just saying, test the edge. I do that anyway on every one even if I'm 100% sure of the heat treat.
  24. "The big thing about working in a traditional manner is that your shop should have at least 5 trained strikers in it. Any show with just 1 smith in it is working in the MODERN way." Couldn't agree more. Very nice axe, I've been wanting to try one like that for a while.
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