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Everything posted by will52100

  1. Never dealt with them, but from there web page it looks like there on the soft side, but the price is very attractive if its new or near new condition. I worked for many years on a soft anvil and while not as much fun as a hard one, it'll get the job done.
  2. I don't use much liquid nitrogen, primarily for the little bit of stainless I do. I used to take a metal thermos with the cap seal removed so it could vent, and placed in a 5 gallon bucket wrapped with towels. It used to cost me like 4$ to fill and it'd last a couple of days with blades in it. Unfortunately Airgas bought out the welding supply where I got it and there a bunch of arrogant jerks and I refuse to do business with them. They and most other suppliers refuse to fill anything but a LN dewar. I've got an old one, my father used to AI when he was dairying, it's vacuum has leaked out, but it'll still hold LN for about 30 days, it was a 60 day tank. Of course that's just sitting, the more you open and put room temp blades in the faster it evaporates. I've looked at getting a smaller tank with a large mouth, but the prices are insane. A safety note, don't transport LN or dry ice in an inclosed vehicle, put it in the back of a truck, as it evaporates it displaces oxygen and can suffocate you. A wreck with LN can also be a very bad thing, there was a driver that filled tanks at different farms and had a wreck, he was a popsicle.
  3. Great video, seen it before but had to watch it again, glad it was recorded. Would love to have one of those pieces of history.
  4. Thanks, the wrought iron was an experiment, it came from an old wagon wheel, about 10" wide, 1/4" thick that had been used for a brick ledge on a fireplace, found it when we tore the old house down. House was built around 1901, and the iron was fairly corse. I basically forged it flat and cut and stacked it, think it was 6 layers, a triple fold, then cut down the middle and triple folded again. It came out pretty clean, but I didn't etch very long, just enough to give a little age and grey to it. Also, I didn't finish it finer than a 120 grit belt, a finer finish and a longer etch would bring out the grain better. Stamp is a little too deep, should have hit it once, not twice with the big hammer, wrought iron is soft at heat.
  5. Well, large hawk and small trade belt axe Hawk has a 3 1/2" cutting edge, 19" hickory handle, body of 1018 with a 1084 bit. It's left a bit rougher than I normally do hawks so I did a kydex blade guard figuring it be a good one to throw in a truck or side by side tool box. Belt axe as a 3 3/4" cutting edge, 14" hickory handle, body of wrought iron with a 5160 bit. I left this fairly rough as well, it's my take on a trade axe or hatchet. Also first time using my new stamp, just an anvil with my initials, WJC. I normally use an electro etch and stencil, but that don't work too good on rough forge finished metal.
  6. I understand that, but this is not open bearings, and I have been greasing before every day of running, new grease pushes old crud out, same as on a disk or bush hog. The old oil holes were just that, holes leading directly into the bushing. We'll se how it goes, so far I'm liking it.
  7. Finally got time to get everything back together and give it a good work out. I put grease fittings in all the linkages, except for the ram guid, that still gets silicon spray. Man what a difference, I'm thinking the lead had been loose for a while and just finally worked it's way to the top where it was hitting the link pins.
  8. That's what I'm thinking, I wonder why they didn't add grease fitting when they built the hammer? They took the time to press in bronze bushings and drill oil holes, grease fittings would not have taken but a few minutes longer.
  9. I haven't had a chance to get it back together yet, had to go pick a few set screws up for the head cross pins, it'd slung all but one out, there what keeps the pins in head from moving to the side and hitting the ram guid. Anyway, got to thinking, the toggles only have oil holes and I've been using silicon spray on everything but the upper pillow block bearing on the pitman arm. Would now be a good time to add grease certs to the bushings? There is a little slack in the bushings, but not bad. I'm thinking a good quality grease would cushion as well as lubricate the toggle arms. Thoughts?
  10. I put a 1/8" sheet metal cover over it and welded it down. Even if it breaks free, it can't go anywhere, it might batter itself to the point it could wiggle an 1/8" up and down.
  11. Got it fixed, now just for it to cool down and get it back together. The lead was sliding up and impacting the toggle arms. It would not come all the way out and I decided to quit over engineering it and just heated it up on the turkey frier. Then had to stop and drill out the die bolt holes and run bolts in and tighten as lead was leaking out around the loose bolts. Drilled out the lead and chased the threads with a tap and tightened bolts and washers in place and re heated till liquid. Once it solidified I cut a 1/8" piece of sheet metal and welded it on top of the lead. I figure even if it comes loose it isn't going anywhere now. Hopefully will get everything back together and up and running in the morning.
  12. Would the brass help bond it better than clean steel? Looks like I'm going to have to do it sooner rather than later, was using it just a little while ago and felt and heard it "lump" a couple of times. Not looking forward to it for sure.
  13. Just kinda surprising is all. If I'm understanding you correctly you leave the flat bar in there? Kind of a PITA, but I'll most likely take it apart and clean and melt the lead out, then clean and heat the head and pour lead back in. With or without a cross member the secrete to getting a good bond is clean metal and getting the head up to heat. And alloyed lead with a bit of tin in it melts at lower temps than pure lead. Still think if I have to go that rout I'll add a cross member or two as well. That is if I have to do it, may just be a little puddled lead that is breaking loose, we'll see. Hopefully if not then it will wait till winter, it's too bloody hot right now to screw with.
  14. Really? That seems, I don't know, kinda red neck and I'm a red neck. I think if it comes loose I'll take it down and re-melt with maybe a cross piece to lock everything in place.
  15. Been running my tire hammer for several years and it's been great. However, in the last couple of days it's spit a couple chunks of lead out of the hammer, probably around 500 grains to 1000 grains each. It's easier for me to picture a couple cast bullets than try and figure out the grams or tenths of pounds. So far it seems the lead is holding OK, no rattle or doesn't seem to be loose, but I'm wondering if I'll be fixing it in the not to distant future? I didn't build this hammer, it was built at one of Clay's work shops several years before I bought it. I did have to go over several of the welds and fix them shortly after bringing it home. I'm wondering if maybe they didn't pre-heat the head before pouring the lead in. If I have to repair it I have a turkey fryer that I use to smelt scrap lead into ingots, so it's not that big an issue to melt it out. I'm thinking that if I do have to do that I will sand blast the inside and weld in a rebar cross member to lock it in place when I re cast it. Or is it a non issue and I'm worrying over nothing? Too full of silicon and grease to get a good look in the head, may just be a little extra that flaked off. I plan to run it till I start seeing the lead get loose.
  16. Impressive, not a huge fan of integral hawks, but that is the exception.
  17. It's a Refflinghaus, 330 pound German pattern #57. It just looks the same length due to camera angle, but it's only 5" longer than the shank to keep it within the pritchel hole.
  18. The hardness is only an inch or so, but it's all around the anvil sides and bottom as well. Think of it as a 1" jacket.
  19. Pretty much. The only other option would be to counter drill the pritchel hole from underneath, but good luck finding a reasonably priced cobalt 1 1/4" or so bit to drill the 60-61 rockwell anvil. The 5" thickness is great support for punching, but makes it tough to fit a hold down. My friend also has a London pattern and while the hold fast I'd made before wouldn't fit in the pritchel hole, they would lock up good in the hardy hole which was about 2 3/4" thick.
  20. About 3/32" slack or so. The end of the hold fast is about 1/4" shorter than the end of the pritchel hole, so I've got 5" to play with, it'll hold down an inch or so, any thicker and I'd need to make a longer hold fast. mainly what I need it for is 1/4" thick and 3/8" thick flat bar. Now that I see what's going on, if I need to I can make another easily enough.
  21. I tend to agree with you, when I was first starting out I used salvaged materials for knives. I learned a lot, but wasted a lot of time with poor steels and not knowing what to expect. I always advocate learning on a known steel, then branching out to experiment. Anyway, I managed to get over to my friend's house and check his hold fast out. Basically the end of the holder doesn't go all the way through the pritchel hole and has a flat with a bit of a kick to it. I'd brought mine over, we cut the end off and put a little flat on it and a bit of a kick and it held great. Got home and had to forge a bit of a nicer one than what I had. Anyway, this is what I came up with, could have used a bit more planishing on the head, but I was burned out from the heat today. It's forged from A36 1" square bar as that's all I had on hand big enough, I did use super quench on the end of the nub to maybe make it last longer, if it wears and starts slipping it's easy enough to fix though. Thanks for all the help