trying-it

I own and use one of Bill Epps' later models that I purchased from him. The end farthest from the pivot point has ground spots for working rounds, pipe etc. However his later models, like mine, have sharpened angles ground close to the pivot end that allow for hot cutting materials. The cutting edge (top & bottom) is 1" long or more. He also added 2 bolt hole positions; lower for smaller items, or raise bolt to next hole and work larger items. This tool's options are limited by user's imagination only. Imagine another similar unit with different hole sizes or shapes in both tool halves. BTW James nice looking tool you made there!!!!!!!!!! Stan

Some new materials have a "sizing" type coating that can cause a few problems. Just as a seamstress will prewash a new fabric before cutting and sewing, prewashing new denim may have to be considered too when used in Micarta batches. R&D will only determine that. I prefab molds from light cardboard (cereal boxes, etc) to dimensions that are bigger than finished product needs. Tape all corners for strength and line with plastic wrap. As working time of resin is limited I work fast. Pour some resin in bottom of mold, add a precut piece of material and work it flat into mold bottom with a finger (gloves on of course). Excess resin floats up during building process. Add another piece of material, finger smooth, continue. Add more resin as needed between fabric sheets. Continue layering process till mold is over filled past top. Bring all excess plastic wrap up and over top of stack. Have ready 2 pieces of board cut larger than mold size; place 1 board under mold and 1 on top. Use C clamp(s) to press top board down even with mold top. That should allow for enough material compression. Excess resin is still trapped within confines of materials and plastic wrap, thus can still soak into block before hardening if it can find any voids. If by chance any resin leaks from plastic wrap it will bond with the c'board mold; it is considered expendable and easily sawed, ground, or sanded away during final processing. Hope this helps shed a little more light on the subject. Have fun with your R&D and good luck with your knife project. Stan

Jayco here is a link to the Bill Epps model #41 in the list

I agree with Dodge (Scott) that I need to advertise my stuff as TryCarta

Latest R&D results: First picture are bagged samples to be molded Second picture are cured molds Third picture are block side views and a slice of each after sealing with Superglue

Could have a 1000 or more mechanical uses, but as for forged items any type threaded rod makes for great leaves with a highly detailed edge.

strantor, thanks for the kind reviews. Starting materials were a couple of new kitchen hand towels; one in black and one a light tan color. To me the most interesting aspect of this whole process are the final outcomes from each of the starting materials used. Some colors change slightly (usually darker) while others seem to have a mind of their own. Examples: medium shades of blue just get black, but bright reds may result somewhere between almost black to purples to pinks. A light tan denim (nutmeg or cinnamon) did result in a block that closely resembled walnut hardwood. Blue jean denim and baler twine did not change colors, but did make for a nice color contrasting and patterned block. As this thread's original question asked what other types of materials can be used, I am planning to move my R&D into organic type materials such as corn, dried beans, rice, etc. Also plan on trying resin color pigments and various types of dyes/paints on starting materials.

Hire a big strong energetic striker

A little additional information for clarity: The Damascus Research Team at Southern Illinois University in Carbondale comprised of Robert Griffith, Jim Wallace and Daryl Meier. Brent Kington founded that particular educational program and department. The time frame for their conducted research was actually in late 1960's - early 1970's. I know Daryl, Jim, and Brent quite well and consider them all as dear friends. This old man was fortunate enough to play in that SIUC smithy for a few semesters (as elective classes) during my recent pursuit of higher education.

Welcome to IFI. You may have "...went against ALL advice and just jumped in with both feet. Built a small forge and started ruining stuff.....and more stuff.....and then more", but I can see that you are definitely holding your own there. I can't wait to see pics with the blade included.

Nice link with a lot of great industrial photos, thanks for sharing. Kind of puts things in a little different perspective.

I agree 100% with both previous posts, but want to add a couple additional details. #1) Lathe accuracy can be dramatically influenced by how level and securely a lathe bed is in a shop. My 7' lathe will actually flex with the concrete floor as seasonal temperatures change. This allows the ways to twist slightly and only cure is to re level the lathe again (on all axis) to correct precision cutting accuracy. #2) One of my first factory machining jobs was to precision grind/profile diamond grinding wheels used in the optical lens field. All grinding was performed on a lathe with a tool post grinder and all radii generated through grinding in the freehand mode. Lathe ways were covered with heavy fabric such as shop apron materials and a strong industrial shop vac system was used to collect as much dust as possible. Before covering the ways, all oil was wiped off/dry. After each grinding operation was completed oil was applied in order to float any remaining dust up and all was wiped off again. Ways were re oiled again for regular typical type machining operations, or wiped dry again to begin grinding another piece. Hope this helps! BE safe

Thanks for starting this thread guys! A new camera, a new process, new materials to play with. I am in Mudville heaven here as you can maybe already tell.

Once a billet or 2 are made they can be sliced and diced and all the pieces forge welded together again. Then forge that into anything you desire as shown at: gallery-usa-bar - Blacksmith Photo Gallery gallery-usa-pattern - Blacksmith Photo Gallery gallery-flag - Blacksmith Photo Gallery gallery-bushbowie - Blacksmith Photo Gallery

Just a couple examples of incorporating letters and such into a pattern welded billet can be found at the following link: powdered damacsus study at Jeremy K 's shop - Blacksmith Photo Gallery

Yessir that is some fine examples of a true artist blacksmith at work. I bow to you sir!

The steel production industry uses jets of water spray during the hot roll milling process to reduce scaling.

Real nice job. Gives me a bit of inspiration. A black powder rifle uses a patched lead ball loaded on top of a powder charge. Pour a measured amount of powder down barrel, place a flattened chunk of cloth on barrel end, insert lead ball until flush with barrel end, then cut all excess cloth away using a knife or other sharp object. Using a ramrod the patched ball is then rammed home atop the powder charge. All that is needed then is to use appropriate ignition method for style of rifle; primer cap, flintlock, etc. Ready, aim, fire; then repeat entire process again. After watching the actual procedure being done many are left wondering how bows and arrows were ever defeated.

Apparently Valentin has found a method for actually making money at a casino. Way to go pal.

Welcome to IForgeIron! While doing a little online research I noticed you posted the exact same question on numerous forums, but I saw few if any replies. May I suggest you consider your pewter casting needs using the cuddle bone casting technique. Cuddle bone can be easily found at any pet store, is quite inexpensive, carves easily with simple tools, etc. End results of finished castings can be awesome with high detail quality. The cuddle bone casting method is used by many jewelry makers. Pewter, silver, sterling silver, gold, etc. can be poured/cast using the same technique.

Mighty impressive piece of work

Machining is a great profession that includes a lot of self satisfaction as one of its rewards. Anything and everything (not made by God) has machinist(s) fingerprints all over it. On the downside (and not trying to change your professional dreams), prepare yourself mentally and financially for possible employer layoffs, down sizings, plant closures, labor strikes, etc. These have been a way-of-life for me many times since the early 1970's. It seems like no employer, product line, job location, etc. is immune to any of these then or now. In 1984 I opened my own machining job shop for a more stable form of job security. Little did I know then that personal health issues would eventually plague that income source too.

Welcome back Mike, missed you pal. Sure glad you and the wife are getting better. Another fine looking knife!

Frosty must mean that if you forged it from a billet, especially a pattern welded billet, the selling price goes up! Nice spatula by the way!