natkova

I call vise as third hand. Your leg of vise look bend to much toward person operating vise.

Well stick weld will do just fine Just comparing how steel move when it's not drawn out and when it is

This was experiment with coil spring lol this was first holdfast i amde and banged with hammer to lock unlock it. Second is mild steel 3/4 third is one inch that is too bigg

It's fixed

Repaired my vise leg old was too much crooked . And it was thin . First 1" square were to upset then leg was cut shorter on purpose because when it's draw out it was correct diameter with vise. It was done by eye . Then all welded together .

I had that U shape workbench design before, there are pros and cons to that.

I did that but i broke it lol because it was quenched i guess by accident. I broke it while i hit it. Does it have to be coil spring or mild steel can be good also, or better results are with coil?

I just found old documentary od this smithy and wanted to share it To this day this smithy work

Its irony in my country we have coke factory and i still cant buy coke, nor coal, we have a lots of mines, still blacksmiths here use charcoal, only big factories use colal/coke like one in Zenica wich have big foundary. Lot's of mines just cant buy it in bags you need to buy it in tons. Solid fuel is good for upsetting while its better for forging i think o use gas forge, and gas forge is loud ( i never used gas forge) only accetylene torch in school to weld some pipes as i am plumber, (thats storry how i get started liking smithing) yellow to red heat when it transfer after you light pipe with torch and use rod as bead to weld.

I will fix it i have 1 inch wich is slightly bigger now, older one rod bent. I upset bar of one inch, just for look and for less impact on concrate. Issue is now I think after upsetting and drawing out it then should be cut to length desired , as we know drawing out and upsetting change bar length.

I had upsetting and satisfying day today, how , i just upset 1" square for my post vise, i was satisfied how much my forge can heat, this is record one inch square , even if i can do heat more, lets say 2 inches, i cant beat more with hammer

I found it economical to use fuel lets say charcoal to put bunch of it for some piece than to poot small amount every now and then. Do you know what you mean, if you put small amount of fuel in forge, you will loose more fuel becasue every now and then you will be adding more and more fuel to fill void, but if you have good heat even if you have more coal charcoal its not that issue, use wet rugg tied to iron bar, and sprinkle around fire every now and then, same can be done with some cat food can or something like that, drill under can small holes with nail, and make handle from rod, then rivet can to rod, and you have sprinkler for your forge. I hope i was being clear abou my toguhts what i meant and what i said.

I kinda fixed it but need more fuss and fiddling , thing i doo i just used my old ne that i made from 3/4 round bar ,and tossed it away used it as woodworking, i tought its failed prototype, but i just bend it a litle bit under goose neck and it work better. ( its shaped as this as someone mentioned and drawed, thanks i better understood tool, basicly you can imagine two hands pushing from oposite side, but issue with mine hardy that its deep , so angle of bend should be steep and narow as possible and long one. About your suggestion that too can be done but i will have to see, another thing is when loosen holdfast jump that is becaseu its short, maybe not for other hardies but its short for mine, it is good and bad, kinda dangarous if you hit it harder it loose, but its handy at small tap it let steel.

I doubt coil spring can workin my case. It will just twist in hardy hole . Might I reforge this thick 1 inch square bar to 3/4 that might work and maybe I should think down forge up part where spring need to be.

I find it aqward and funny restoring old topics, but I don't think it's is violation of rules. I do it sometimes myself.

I tried with coil spring too thin for my hardy hole had to bend it twice and it get messy, and it twisted, after all that whacking i break it I think i accidently quenched cane part of it. where there is bend i mean tha part, maybe i forgot but it snapped, and it wanted to twist in hardy hole. myne hardy hole is 1" squere.

Here is mine for vise. OTher one is hybrid woodworking and machinist vise on it . REason why this workbench is cut diagonaly is becasue it is easier to walk from outside to room. Its tight spot between door and two benches. About vises i like having like bench for it where i can throw tools when iam done with working around vise, and it is faster to grab file hammer from table, or to put grinder on it, even they dont recomend instaling post vise to workbench, i designed this workbench this way and its is a litle bit lower then machinist vise workbench. I will see to weld better stem to postvise, becasue this one is bend that i welded on.

I noticed that grip worsened when I changed angle of tool , I had too long material and instead of cuting it I curved it back making more curve perhaps that's reason why it lost it grip? I tried fixing this by welding some beads around holdfast so it can be tightened, it's obvious that u didn't understood tool right . I will have to reforge it I guess.

It wiggle after I whack it with hammer it even jump .

Yeah it was not finished, i need somekind handle, and i made smaller foot for space saving, and so tool dont go in my way when i work or accidently kick it, i can easaly attach some more pipes to those ends, they are long like 4 inches on each side.

Made myself one helper

This plate under chain

I made holdfast but i had issue it wiggle too much, first it was too tight now it wiggle. Mine go to hardy hole since i dont have pritchet its 1"by 1" .

Ian not sure if it is mild steel because it's is old stove plate .

Can dent in steel and some humps (saddle part) damage anvil?