racer3j

Though yet a child in the smithing world, I am intrigued by tools of most all crafts. In the woodworking world I have no interest in building fine furniture. I enjoy restoring and making and trying to improve handtools. I took delivery of a nice propane forge and I haven't fired it yet- I want to paint the liner with ITC-100 first. The forge is a nice little unit but I can rarely leave these things alone. So I have two coal and one coke forge to build- material gathering as we speak. Plans on a "bar napkin." The real news is that a very well respected refractory products and process company is only 3 miles from my house. A phone call got me to the owner/founder( five other locations in the US). So, I have an invite to come out- with plans- I get the grand tour and a sit down with him and other engineers to work up a super-forge. Cast in foundry grade liner, cooked- then coated with a product like ITC-100 and cooked again. He said that my needs would provide something to make with their linings "sweepings." Once trained, I will be authorized to make my shells, soft set the liner material and take to the plant to piggyback on a commercial bake and coating. Now, what may be a downside- the liner ends up being near 4" thick, but it is developed for high production foundry use so it is tough as nails and extremely efficient. He indicates I should look at a clamshell style forge. The floor will be ceramic and coated too and replaceable so post-flux renewal will be simple. I know it sounds like "Forgezilla" but it is an experience I cannot pass up. I would be glad to ask questions on behalf of any of you. I will likely go there next week. So, think about it. Hybrid burners will be providing the fire.jet

I just got off the phone with the company mentioned. I want a stamp- compatible with marking steel and wood. No sweat. I am looking at using the outline of the state of Iowa(stock) about 1" x 1" with "New Traditions Tool & Finish". It is for use on steel and wood. I know it is pretty early to be thinking touchmarks when I don't have my chops down and may never will as far as smithing. But I do work in wood already, making hand planes. Wood bodied planes were traditionally cold stamped by the maker. It would appear that I could get a wood burner at the same time- saving because of same artwork. Maybe around $150 for the mallet/hammer stamp in a hardened steel. Not cheap- but very realistic considering the work necessary. Fellow was friendly. For those of you who "merit" such a marker, they will be hard to surpass.jet

Philip- you are the only other Vaughans owner to speak up. As we were trying to identify brand on mine, I thought more would pop up. The only markings on mine are the CW, the kgs and "England." Where a maker's name might have been is a smooth ground area- from what I can loosely figure out, it may have said "Brooks," another respected maker absorbed by Vaughans- perfectly matching blue paint, though aged a bit as it sat for a fair time in the back room. Any other Vaughan owners here?jet

Some of you may recall that I have an unused 88.9-1 3/4 CW Vaughan & Brooks Blacksmith's Anvil. I haven't even cleaned out the hardie(y). There are no hammer wounds on the face or anywhere. When I was racing(retired in 1999 from winged sprint cars) I had two multi-level compression fracture injuries. I have had surgery and every kind of big needle and nerve burning known to man- still have severe pain, all day, everyday. As the help on stands came in I started evaluating some realistic facts. There was a time, even after those injuries that I could pick up and walk around with 175 pounds of anvil, calf, pig,dog,injured teenager etc. No more. My arms will do it but my spine won't. I have a little home and a 2 1/2 car garage. To forge, I will have to move the anvil and forge out on my driveway. I noted that the sample pictures so kindly posted did not include mobility features. So, I am thinking of selling the V & B and buying a 70 # Carroll Wide Face. I realize that these have significant design features for farriers. But the model I am thinking of appears to have enough flat surface to do knife,chisel, plane iron.forging.( I might be able to muscle around the 122# model) I know I am sitting here with a $600+ anvil that is fine quality and a true blacksmith's anvil. ASSUMING that a Carroll is good material, design and execution, though farrier oriented, WHAT WOULD YOU DO???? The big guy might end up on the "tailgate." And, I would try to find the closest Carroll seller to minimize freight. At my age and handicap( hardly counting wrecked humeri and cuffs R & L) I know that if I keep the V & B, I won't be wishing for more anvil. A large Bowie sized knife, or three inch wide slick, or multi-layer forge welded similar implements would be as big as I am going. THANK YOU FOR STICKING WITH THIS LONG POST AND QUESTION!! Your new, ignorant buddy, jet/mike

I need to build two or three anvil stands. One quite heavy duty for my V & B 89 kg and then a couple more for nice rail anvils. I need to kill the ring on the V & B- it is one xxxx of a bell. The simpler the better.-- An aside, is R. Price still selling the T-Rex line? Sent a couple of emails with no result.jet

I see that this forum does not have a BUY/SELL subforum. Sorry if I am opening a wound, but...I hate ebay bidding. I will pay a fellow "worth the money" for a quality piece of tooling or material. I don't have to "get over on someone" to be a happy buyer. So, other than ebay or Craig's List, is there a smithing group where "Want to Buy" and "For sale" posts are allowed/invited? I belong to a large and active Woodworking/Handtool Forum and we have a subforum for such. It is not done by auction- sellers must post a selling price--they can say "best offer" but it is intentionally not an auction- usually done by the first private message that says "I'll take it." A conditional "I'll take it, but...." is not a binding offer.Thanks, mt/jet- *By the way, if anyone wants me to settle on one name/signature, I'll expain and we can choose. I hope to be around here for a fair bit of time.*

My apologies Glenn. I am still new here and it will be awhile before I have the forum at my mental fingertips.One of my 4 OA set-ups is Dillon/Henrob/Cobra. Jere keeps parts and accessories in good stock. Also that site pictured a treadle hammer and that was the first I saw one.jet

Google "Jere Kirkpatrick" --shop is " Valley Forge" they sell a good set of plans.jet

Justin- the rails were in sections- held together at their junctions with tie plates. Spikes were driven into the wooden "rail" or "crossrail", "tie" or crosstie". So the "tie " part gets spread around . When used with "plate," it refers to rectangles of steel that bolt up to where the sections meet.jet

89 kg.- 1 3/4 CW- New- April 2008 $350- Finally a true story of the gem "Been in back room here through at least two long time former owners of this hardware store." City of Big Shoulders, Illinois- Endless thanks to a Madman Serb fellow toolmaker and monger in the woodworking trades.jet

Ironsurgeon's rework there is very fine craftsmanship. As I keep learning more about what to look for I am humbled. I have a mig(Lincoln 170) and several torches. I consider that my best quality work is torch based. Comments on such a good plan with oxy-acet? Welding is one of my favorite pastimes and I would feel good about rescuing the orphan anvils.jet

What is your pan diameter- do you know what vehicle the drum came from? A nice job.jet

For me, the only meat that just may surpass moose is elk. Though Iowa beef forced on corn for two to three weeks is a tough standard of comparison. You have succeeded in rescuing the DO. I have found less honorable 20" 2 1/2" deep CI pan for $29- I may abuse one of those.jet

In fact, it is a complete quite nice flange lidded example. If I try to sell it, shipping would be more than item price. Thinking on it, the old guy has made many a fine venison stew and baked a pretty fair number of biscuits. I'll look for something that has not earned a peaceful semi-retirement.jet

As an old retired racer, I sit here and watch Indy- my last years were in sprint cars- used to be the path to the 500. Anyway, has anyone built a coal/coke forge using a cast iron dutch oven? I found my old 15" one and started thinking. A floor flange for the hole in the bottom( that uses up one good holesaw), a 3 inch nipple down, a "T" on the nipple and a pipe going into the "T" from the side. All 1 1/4 inch. The bottom of the "T" with a plug for cleanout. A disc with holes with a 1" dia nipple stub welded to the disc to rotate in the floor flange and holes drilled in that rotating vent control. Will it work with a small blower going in the horizontal pipe?Too small for typical clinkers? Other negatives. I will have my gas forge next week but I am just brain storming on the coal/coke forge- the dutch oven has been inactive for about 15 years and it deserves better than a flower pot.jet

Thanks for the reminder, "If it ain't broke, don't fix it."mt

PLEASE-Reply to my own post. I could build metal on the top of the horn with my mig and then shape that to give some radius to the top of the horn. Thoughts on that?mt-Again, sorry for yelling.

PLEASE- THIS LONG WEEKEND MAY BE ABOUT THE ONLY TIME I HAVE TO DO THIS! Otherwise I would not SHOUT for help.As our old vets can see, the edges on the RA have a quite soft radius. I am thinking of using one of my stationary 6" belt sanders to carefully flatten about 6" starting behind the taper of the horn. I don't want to do this at the hardy end because I want to retain full thickness to absorb the more localized force, concentrated at the hardy-hole. An option would be to weld 3/4"(would attach using hardy) shank to a flat, sharper edged piece of hardened and drawn steel plate. The problem I see there is that the plate would still be resting on the rounded "peak" of the face and use would likely just bend the plate to the radius below. It looks nice with the patina, but the size makes it useful. What would you pros do to make it a good worker? Thanks, jet/mt

You did a fine job making a more traditional anvil from rail. We have a roundhouse here and I am going to beg a few more pieces of rail. As I said, I bought this one. I am going to use a big belt sander to just round over the top of this horn- to get closer to your result; I am going to try to keep the easing from going into the very front point.mt

"tyou-yay"[that first "y" is very soft]- I try not to say it. Bit of a Francophobe-Maternal grandfather was infantry in WWI.

ebay- this is the little brother to my 175# Vaughan.mt

This is one of the nicest track based anvils I have come across. It isn't rusty- must have picked up the maroon on the seat cover. Whoever made it put the rounded part of the horn on the bottom. I plan to carefully radius the top of the horn. The arch in the track base offers a nice large radius curve. Ordered my gas forge today. I am still going to try thr CI frying pan or dutch oven thing for coking this weekend.mt

How about a large cast iron skillet? A tuyere, a blower, 1 throw away hole saw, 2 welds. I will see if this works this long weekend. Fire brick or shapable stove cement.mt

Vaughans & Brooks- 1 3/4CW $350 - bought on 5/11/2008. New.