eyrian

How do these results on the ground reconcile with this chart? It seems like prices should've dropped dramatically.

Looks nice. Got an example of a finished piece coming out of it?

Nice. Is it painted? Plated? All-brass?

What is the purpose/use of a bridge anvil? It seems to violate the principle of getting as much steel under the work as possible.

I'm not sure if I'd want to put a torch under external pressure like a vise. However, working with a mounted torch is common in glasswork, and you could probably buy (or forge) a holder to keep the torch in place safely.

Heh. Are you actually using the "55 LBS" ASO as a doorstop?

Thanks for all the advice (and kind words). I'll try and find (or build) some kind of sinking form for the next few attempts. Maybe I'll be able to fill the silverware drawer back up before I'm done...

Wikipedia's article on sundials has the formulae you'll need to find the spacing between the hour lines. Or were you looking for something else?

Unfortunately, there is only open forge time for two-and-a-half-hours a week Thanks for the encouragement!

These are some of my first pieces: a torc I made for a Christmas present, and a spoon I made just a few hours ago. The torc I made in my own forge back home in Maryland. Unfortunately, you can see the spot where I burned it. That's what I get for thinking too much about how I want to finish it while it's still in the fire... I constructed it by twisting two separate rods, then welding the two together with my oxy-acetylene torch. Then, I curled it over the horn of the anvil. The shape needed a bit more refining to get a truly smooth curve, but I was out of time, so... It is finished with paraffin. The spoon I whipped up after discovering the campus forge has open hours (for the first time in years!). It's basically just round rod spread extensively, and raised over a spoon stake. I found this to be difficult, as the edges would always work each other back to flat when pushed too far; I'll have to learn a bit more about proper technique, there. As a result, I had to do a lot of work on the grinder. After I clean it up a bit, I'll probably season it like cast iron, so I can eat with it. Please let me know what you think. Constructive criticism, in particular, would be welcomed.

Pillsbury Coal Co 155 8th Ave NW Glen Burnie, MD 21061 (410) 766-5140‎ $8.75 for a 40 lb bag in low quantities.

That sounds like (vitreous) enameling, specifically champlev

Jose, Unfortunately, Jantz and Texas Knifemaker's Supply only seem to carry nickel silver, which often contains zinc. I don't think you can weld that. Also, OnlineMetals seems to be charging something like $100/lb for their sheet; that seems rather high.

So, I've read (from Hrisoulas) that pure nickel can create some wonderful contrast in pattern-welded billets. However, my local steel supplier doesn't carry any of it, and all the places I can find online seem to sell impure "nickel silver", or charge a lot more than the $5/kg price that it seems to be going for. Does anyone here use nickel? How much are you paying? Where do you get it?

They look beautiful. But could you say a bit more about the finish (product, material)? My books are pretty light around the subject, and the roses look spectacular.