racer3j

As I rolled my forges and anvil onto the concrete apron of the driveway, I just started thinking about winter and when I took a break from what ended up being woodworking stuff, I posted the question. I have the tubular framework for one of those "Portable Garages." As winter comes in I think I will set it up and use lattice with borax treated canvas sides. At least I'll be able to warm my hands at will. Early on I liked the safety conscious attitude of this group- not paranoid, but, common sense. I can sit back and chuckle at the magnesium fire- the other two were very scary and sizable second degree burns hurt- they call them fireproof suits. An $850 two layer fleece or three layer nomex/kevlar give time before burning in seconds. They are retardant suits. 18-20 seconds is about it in an enveloped fire so the two methanol fires are not easy to put aside. On the other hand, I got the time I paid for. mike

There is a special Sanitary Tee that has two 90* across from each other and another 2" hub 90*feed. The cross "T" can be used to make a clinker breaker. The other 2" is for your blower. I have 4 on order and I have both kinds of tuyere plates. 6 cast iron and one or two of the stamped steel. The other 90* tuyere sold by wagonwomen is also a sanitary "t"- you just have to know which company makes them- I have 3 ordered. That will give me some spare and what I need to do the castiron "Skillet Forges." If you need help, let me know.mike

May I have a few referrals to written material that can help me climb to reasonable competence in forging knife blades? I learn best by reading and giving a good go at it. Thanks, Mike

I have been on fire twice. Both methanol in relative daylight. My wife said she never saw me move so fast getting out of the harness and diving out of the car. The second time I had installed a Halon bottle( quite the sin in the sprint car community where light weight is sacred). As I bailed I pulled the emergency "t" and as friends dumped water on me I stood there( after I was "Put out") and watched that darn bottle just kind of intermittently spit- no overcoming fog of halon. Now, that will get your attention and your goat! In some ways the wierdest racing fire in which I "participated" was a driveline failure that lit a largish magnesium pivot ball into a flare between my feet/legs that burned a hole through the sheet aluminum floor pan. It glowed in the dusk and my wife ,in passing, noticed a proximity to family items of potentially diamond like value. Ever try to extinguish a mag. fire?-we knew enough not to try water. We just stood around slack jawed and noted a certain greenish cast to the glow. I am glad I provoked thought. Guess I'll stay with rolling out onto the driveway- after all, that is why my forge is on a mig cart and my anvil is on wheels too. Come December, could someone refer me to specialized below zero smithing wear?? mike

Mine is Lincoln SP170T Mig 220-240v- I think something about that designation is related to buying a unit built to be sold through welding supply houses. mike

Like many here, I want to work in my garage. Like many here, the perimeter of the 2 1/2 car garage is a blend of more tools, but also wood, boxes of books, lawnmowers, gas jugs and the other usual stuff. What do you folks stick with for a safety circle around the forge and the anvil-especially those who forge weld with the sparks? How many fire extinguishers and type? In all of the years that I torch and mig welded in a smaller garage, I had an extinguisher by the garage door, actually one at each side and then one at the service door- all properly mounted for no digging -fumbling access. I am thinking I should do the same here- I hate the white powder types. The foam style are reasonably priced and a CO2 would be nice but usually available through a fire service and I recall that they are pricey. So, comments?mike

High sulphur-powerplant must have very good scrubbers already treating burn residue. When you hear the folks here talk about "seams" e.g. Pocahontas, they are directing toward low sulphur coal with minimal inclusions. Coke is "refined"- waste components are driven out to try to get a very clean burning "coal."mike

Chicago and Delta Blues-everything Clapton has done.mike

All of you know of Darren and Kathryn Ellis. They have been on an emotional and physical roller coaster to you know where. Awhile back I had posted a question about them which was meant by me to call out the reserves to help them, though I did not compose the post well. I have this crazy gas forge idea that involves two Price Shorties, mounted a particular way in a round body forge with very high temp compatible lining. Darren and Kathryn made an exceptional "present" for me( I am buying it, but that is something they don't ordinarily do!). I am convinced that their style of tubular forge is the ideal carrier for my experiment. Of course, they have been working day and night to fill outstanding orders- you would not believe the number that went out the day before they left for a truly deserved vacation. The special that I was permitted to purchase is not going to be a regularly available item. I am anxiously awaiting delivery of the forge components, cut and shaped but requiring me to weld it up- and without plumbing. So, I do not have to re-invent the wheel and can have a proven base for my crazy modifications- if it doesn't work out it will not be because of lack of quality in the basic forge configuration. My goal in the arrangement I contemplate will retain spiral vortex flame propagation but is hoped to do so from end to end without variance. And, the burners should articulate so that they can be very easily aimed as desired and locking in desired alignment will require only a quick turn of the wrist. Obviously, the forge will be pricey just because of the components. Though, the final iteration will allow for a user to fabricate their own round bodied forge within a reasonable range of diameter and length. And, this first will have 3000* blanket lining, high-temp brick floor and either ITC 100 or another interesting refractory coating. With the expected output, there will be an idle circuit - probably mandatory. And, I will likely have doors at both ends but with deflectors for the DB and adjustable vents like those on the bottom of a typical kettle grill or horizontal sliding vents and a door rest so that either can be opened to a desired amount. So, you rightly ask, "Why is this rookie fooling around with all of this?" Well, because he is crazy(perhaps the more flexible thinkers will say 'crazier'). mike

I find that I must comment. The Nessmuk, which you have so traditionally forged is one of my favorite game dressing knives. Your hammer work, recalling the knapped flint texture is appropriate. Frosty can chime in- maybe he already has, but when I saw your first knife, bravely displayed, I was so proud of you. I believe that the earliest examples of the type can date to the Iron Age and it was not any easier for those Far Northern civilizations to make than what effort you invested. Flint, obsidian etc. were not easily available to the ancients in that part of the world and flaked leaf shaped knives were the rule- or, carefully saved and shaped bone were the first Nessmuks. Somewhere around this jumble I call home, I have my first attempt to forge a flintlock plate- if I could dig it out and show it, you would see the traditional vertical fullers at the rear of the plate, but the also traditional "tail" at the rear would drop off if looked at too long- the web cut through a couple of times and the Master Gunsmith, finally started going nuts( and startled by the crudity of my curses), that he could take no more and managed to draw out the last available bit of wrought for the last try- it took, I think out of fear that I would spend the rest of my stint draw-swamping barrels. I did end up investing many hours in the "Forbidden Swamp"(I called it under my breath) and after about ten or so filings on ruined blanks I got good at it. But that lock plate is around here somewhere daring me to be confident now. Please take this post as a true compliment from one who likely has less talent than you(as I was a racer-all guts, no talent) and who is certain that you will keep on- the down the roads won't be better efforts- just better results. Do not let this knife from your custody- it will be a fine yardstick as you grow into becoming a Master Smith. My respect and best regards, Mike-- PS- I have ordered a Nessmuk from Cariboo(maybe November) and this week took delivery of a damascus Nessmuk blank, which will be handled with jigged Gaboon Ebony( very black, like bone buried long and pickled in salt). No hilt,-none needed( my true favorite game knives have no guards/hilts). So, any tips you can pass on will be put to use. In fact, the other favorite game knife is a set of caribou antler handled, scrimshawed (alt. scrimshanded)Scandanavian laminated _____( I'm drawing a complete blank on proper spelling of the PPUUKKOO(smile)-delete unneeded letters. I can post pics if any are interested- down in bladesmithing.m

Haven't tigged since about 2001-but almost all of my Tig was on 4130 tubing, from ,065 to .083 and .095. From all of the years with OA and my most comfortable technique being the "keyhole," in a way I let the tig cup chase the rod. Yes, the rod feed dictated the torch movement. I did not walk the cup in literal contact with the weldment, but did introduce a very subtle "swing" and minute pull-back of the torch. So, as I chased the rod, the initial torch movement was a miniature "c" and a 1/16" pull back before touching the rod to the puddle. Except when constrained by a multi tube intersections, I also used a cup with 1/2" or the 9/16" mouth for broader gas shielding, just barely upping flow to get better shielding(Note-even on my mig I use a flowmeter-2 stage with floating ball and tube and analog round needle gauge)-- apparent average bead width would be around 3/16" for the style of fabrication I describe. My Dillon comes darn near tig control.They are not a gimmick. When I really need to limit heat area, I use the heat-stop "clays".mike

PM me on square broach. mike

Lincoln SP170T for rough work, Dillon/Henrob/Cobra, Airco "Aircraft" torch and Harris full size torch and a "Little Torch". I sold my big watercooled Tig when I retired from racing. Too much investment to let it gather dust.mike("rough work" is a bit unfair- I weave run a mig just like I keyhole a torch so I do get good flat fishscale beads with good penetration)

Did not want you fellers to think I was storyin' ya. I notice other than edged weapons/tools in last photos. not bad wood to go with good steel.mike

Hey, Atomic-- for$825 I'll build you a coal forge with robotic arms and you won't need tongs/ I'm about half serious here. I have some long ago forging experience- gunsmith shop and RR anvils and I think Plumb brand Pien Hammers( always liked the looks of the red mahogany finish on the handles.) My re-entry is taking some practice(I'm 62 years old- guess I don't have the oomph I used to have). Before the broken back episodes I was 6" and 195 #'s and all guts and no talent -in the deadliest racecar God ever granted passage to. I was strong and my stamina usually matched my goals. So, with both of us new, let us discuss: 1. Can you weld,torch tig, stick or monkey? 2. Are you living out of town a bit where the ringing of an anvil will not result in neighbors throwing their cats at you? 3. Have you latched onto a good anvil, built a stand and chained it down or made brackets to lag into a wooden stand? 4. Do you have plenty of cold-rolled steel stock, maybe 1/2" x 1" to fuller and draw out for practice before you start with ATS34 or even my lowly favorite, O1? 5. Have you taken even just a propane torch and played it on a piece of polished steel barstock to watch the color ranges- they appear on the surface of such a bar and you can learn- you won't get a feel for true heating of solid stock heated through, but you will get the idea. 6. Have you read Weygaert or the other respected authors? 7.Have you figured out what hardy tools you will need? 8. Have you considered learning controlled shaping by making your own tongs- maybe buy one or two from Glen S. as examples? 9. If you already have your anvil, have you gently dressed it, radiused a dedicated edge portion for less abrupt angle shaping? 10.Ebay-- Unlike others here I wonder if you have given serious consideration to buying from one of the three reliable gas forge builders there. Each has something different to offer. Mine is from HM Ironworks, but "Poor Boy" has sensible starter forges and so does"looper" even though they bicker about who is best? My $325(HM) two burner ceramic board lined, coated with ITC-100 is quite versatile- I can adjust the burners for slight fuel heavy mix(carburizing flame) and it gets very hot, very fast. Before I laid out the "jack", Jim and I had three phone conservations- all straight from the shoulder honesty. The needle valves used by these fellows are good quality and can be adjusted to a whisker. Knowing what I know now, I would likely have bought an Ellis 8- or would have welded up one myself. 11. Have you heard of Hybridburners, Rex Price, have you memorized Ron Reil's site- by the way, our Frosty contributed a great deal to those efforts- he just isn't a braggart. 12. Do you have a hands on mentor close by so you don't spend all of your allotment of cuss words, before you get the hang of things and know how to ration them out? Atomic- I own around 10 custom knives, by well respected makers- as to one of those makers, I have an early non-touchmarked bowie that did not meet the maker's standards. Had you or I made it, we would be stopping people on the street to make them gaze at it in awe. Step back a bit and ponder these points. Then decide upon your course, guided by others here-not I- and start small- small does not mean junk, but build up to making knives and tools. Get your heat, anvil, hammer and tongs and do what I have had to do- practice- round rod into square, square rod drawn and shaped to a point, flatstock even flatter without wild ripples all over the place, then re-shaped again, back to as round as you can get it. I preach all of this so that when you take that good piece of high carbon steel and start the heat, you will have some chance of shaping a usable knife- and the more usable knives you do thereafter, each will be better looking and will finally be a source of pride; you will be proud to put that touchmark upon it. Regards, mike ***PS*** If I do not make a run to Chicago this weekend to sell some woodworking tools( and to pick up a post vise and an edge sander), I will get to try cable forge welding- thanks to a member here who has been so generous and patient in helping me ease back into this fascinating craft. Thanks, BG.mt

If you go to Ron Reil's site, you get the component call-out for a burner. You get basic instructions-there, and many other places on the net. Google "ron reil burner assembly". Unless you want to use riverbank clay in the coffee can, you will need to buy ceramic liner and a couple of high temp bricks-check Old World Anvil- get the burner kit from Darren- what a bargain! Or find a freon tank from HVAC and cut and weld up a bigger one.Mike

Now, now, Phil,. The listing of my Whisper Baby was active when he was searching. Not that he should have bought it; but it is a new forge except that I coated the appropriate surfaces with ITC-100. And I had it priced at $100 less than "New" with all of the warranty. I bought a forge from Jim Wahls, a two burner, well insulated and floored and it is a good forge- certainly not "scrounger cheap," but it is a bit unfair dumping on all products for smithing on ebay. My V & B anvil was on until 3 hours ago- I am glad it didn't sell because I had changed my mind and am building a mobile stand for it now that I know it stays at home with me. I'd swear that Steve at "matchlessantiques" has anvil dedicated rare earth magnets in his body. You don't buy his stuff on the cheap but he doesn't over-rate his inventory. Scrounging and bargain hunting are great ways to enjoy smithing, but some of us can't drive around to the garage sales and scrapyards. Some can forge well, but cannot weld in the modern sense. I am in the process of building a gas forge and a couple of coal forges- I like to weld and have a nice mig and three torch set-ups. WIth its new carburetor, my big 10hp Tecumseh run generator is a one -two pull deal.( My fault:no Stabil in gas). I wake up each morning at 4:30 to 5:00 AM. Cowboy breakfast(5 cigarettes and three cups of coffee) and then I work on law stuff until I head for court(most days) which starts at 8:00AM or 8:30 AM. Then back and forth from office to courthouse and maybe leave at 5:00 PM. Home, feed the canine security pack of angry chihuahuas, fix and eat dinner(even after over 30 years in Iowa, I have never adopted the "supper" for evening meal), then play with woodworking tools or basic anvil stuff for an hour or so, and then study legal stuff and go to bed. I am sure that there are others here who have a similar or tougher schedule- it does lend itself to buying implements that get you started shaping hot metal;instead of starting to start. I am not complaining but explaining why not everyone is able to DIY the cheapest way. Also, at times, buying proven equipment takes away one worry and lets the student concentrate on the human skills like hammer control. Just my thoughts here.Mike

My Vulcan has about 7/8" thick face. The seam is barely visible. And the lower joiint between the feet and the mid-section doesn't stand out at all. I'll grant that is not as nice as the V & B, for rebound. Until it does something second class to me, I will accord my Vulcan anvil the benefit of the doubt.mike

Can anyone direct me to someone who can give suggestions on building a benchtop air hammer as shown in the various photographs? I appreciate any help offered.mike

My 105 pound Vulcan cost me $250 and shipping. It has a good face, excellent edges- really about as nice as you could ask for in a used anvil. It was definitely used but the smith had great hammer control and worked the whole face. If I recall, Columbus made them in ,Ohio, of course. They are supposedly second tier anvils. I don't recall what their tradename was for the top of the line. Mine is very quiet but has great rebound, I cannot find any cracks propagating and I am comfortable with the size. The largest item I expect to forge is a one inch wide bevel edged chisel and plane irons for woodworking planes. I have my Vaughan-Brooks 196# on ebay right now- since the Brooks name is not as familiar as the great US names, it isn't seeing any bidding. I have to admit to some confusion- there may be more than one anvil marketed as Vulcan. I know that the type of Vulcan I have has the encircled arm & hammer symbol.I recall that this logo was used by another anvil as well. Maybe the real experts here can clarify. I don't think a bit over $2 per pound is considered high, even by the wise to the market guys here. Isn't a Wright in your size thought to be a true top of the line anvil? I haven't been in the anvil market long but I have tried to learn all I could. I have a feeling that if the Vaughan/Brooks sells, I will regret it. As a new fellow, I think that if you traded off the Wright for weight, you might regret too.mike

Lack of confidence in wicking solder completely into a joint. And you don't have to sand /de-oxidize when things are threaded. Disassembly ease is a legitimate reason for use of non-soldered joints, so it is not all attributable to my initial remark. I like to weld and silver solder(really silver braze) and use pipe /plumbers' solder. Some do not enjoy those processes so threaded with good Loctite thread sealant is quite sufficient.mike( I use teflon tape too, but the Loctite inspires more confidence for me.)Sorry- it is necessary to acknowledge that black iron threaded -joint pipe with sealant is the prevailing gas distribution material/system in the American home and it is safe and works well.-Without this amendment, my post seems pretty disrespectful or critical in a mean spirited way- that is not me)SORRY

The largest cast iron skillet I could find that I could justify taking a holesaw to, is 15inch. The econo 17" ones would/did self destruct in shipping. Not unusual for that product by comments on Amazon. I got a price break on cast(ductile) iron tuyere "caps" buying 6 so I have that covered. The generator fires first pull and the Mig is working fine. I am waiting on a special order Charlotte Pipe Co. sanitary "T". It is called a New Orleans and has two horizontal stubs across from each other making a complete "T"- I figured just about ready made for a clinker knocker.Drill a hole in two plugs, slide a knocker in, slide the second cap over the shaft and thread it in and there you go- holesaw an opening for the air.. As always, I am open for suggestions. The two 400 Champion blowers I have will need stands. I am going to use ERW tubing with a slot cut out lengthwise to slide over the cylindrical bases on these blowers/worm gear hose clamps-then weld on some legs and use flex hose and it should make wind directed into the heart of the forge. I have to find some coke because even though the youngsters on either side of me find me curious and "colorful" the fire department would not find me so entertaining---Headline---" Magistrate Arrested for Smoky Open Fire."( on the other hand, the fine would be less than our new No Smoking/ Chewing[tobacco] In Public Places Law, effective July 1.)mike

There are some Handed mallets for chisel driving in wood (Glen Drake). You are the first to confirm that lefty hammers for smiths are out there.mike

Jose- that is the size I need. Did you take the photo? Just wondering because I can't get a scale on it. Even looking at the spring doesn't help much since they come in all sizes. mike--PS- when choosing, how do you specify a fast acting ram? And on the ones shown from Mr. Ted . what is returning, extra fast two way cylinder?mt

As a rookie and a lefty(Talk about handicaps-though I am not familiar with anyone making right hand vs. left hand hammers for smithing), by instinct I set up with the forge to left center of the front of my body. The anvil is a 90* to 120* pivot to the right(clockwise)- if I used a blower it would be a bit more left of the forge opening( fire center). I find that it is smoother for me to use the right to tong and transfer from forge to anvil and back. I can see a downside in cranking with the hammerhand- tired from cranking would likely affect energy and accuracy. I have several blowers and when I finish my skillet based forge(s) I will have to pay attention to that.mike