Jump to content
I Forge Iron

Abenakis

Members
  • Posts

    74
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Converted

  • Location
    Laval, Quebec,Canada
  • Biography
    Artist using different medium, computer programmer, nature and women lover; life is great!
  • Interests
    Everything from music to star watching to canoeing and cycling
  • Occupation
    Beginning in Blacksmithing

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Hi This is a mix between Frosty's design and BP0065. I added a spring to get the top die at a height just over the bar I work on. The spring can be put in 3 positions for different stock size. With the spring fully compressed, the top die hit the bottom one. To make it work properly, I had to put grease in the guides because the spring is rocking the top die front / rear. With this design, I can put dies much larger than the width of the guides, like in BP0065. Comments are welcome! Abenakis
  2. I also hate gloves but, because I play guitar, I took the time to find ones that I have good feeling with. They are tight and not easy to put on and off but they have saved my hands and fingers many times already from cuts and burns. It's also easier to wash the hands after a session! For the elbow, when I feel some pain, I do a very fast extension of my arm as if I would want to get rid of my hand or reverse slap something. I repeat a couple of time untill I feel that the elbow is 'freed' from the blockage causing the pain, usually accompanied by a 'clung', somehow like what chiropractors do with the neck. It works for me... Good luck
  3. - Center frame length: 48" - Cross support: 13" (this measure must be calculated so that you can bring a guide up to the center and yet cover the width you need) - Sliding tube: 4 1/2" - Vertical axis: 5" (can also go underneath) - Guide stem: 1 1/2 If I were to redo, I would rather use colar instead of screws to hold the parts in place. I also have noticed that the top of the guide could be made better by putting it on a screw that would go into the stem, locked at the desired place by a nut. The main problem was the relation between the sliding tube and the one in which it slides. As soon as work is done to either, there is some distortion and the fit has to be reworked. If you have other questions, feel free to ask! Have fun
  4. Hi Brice I had the same question a while ago, I answered it that way: http://www.iforgeiron.com/forum/f7/interesting-tool-i-made-12457/ I work with a torch to get the bar to follow the guides. I know I will reuse this many times.
  5. To complement Frosty's statement, I have welded wheels on every*stands and I can rearrange my shop as I need to (often because I also make furnitures and my workshop is also my garage). Easier to clean too!
  6. A good anvil will not absorb the impact and thus will act as a second hammer working the iron. Usually, the inner structure of the cast iron does not yield to that sort of help. It will not hurt but you might have to work harder than necessary like if you would be hitting a cooler piece of iron. It can also distort when a heated part is placed on it if the steel used for the plate is not of proper type. For beginning, however, you, at least, have something to have fun with! Have a good time and come back often as everybody is very helpful here.
  7. Thanks for the comment; I want the seat to be leather babiche (what the northern indians used for their snow shoes). So I see it as being more Abenakis than French. I would have to see if it could cross without too much added to the price at the border!
  8. I have added a picture of a half size model of the chair so you can compare.
  9. Yep! I like the analogy. I wander if I could build a little iron canoe with that! lol
  10. Thanks Charlotte To be true, I have not tried to pencil this; it would have been a mess on the drawing board! lol. I went directly with what I had in my backyard (rusty stuff not made to go together!). It was a lot of work but fun to do.
  11. Hi The tool showed below is a configurable bunch of guides that a red iron bar would be forced to follow in order to produce complex shapes. This helps when you need to do more than one instance of the desired object or want to reproduced from a scaled down image of object. On the first picture, one can see that the right side is ready for an oval shape. The others are related to the bistro chair I have designed and that I have begun to build. If I would redo the tool, I would change the screw stoppers for collars which would better resist the force I apply when I bend the bar. Not that it doesn't work but a bit flimsy. I would also have the head of the guide put on a screw that would screw in the little support so that I could easily acheived the perfect match between the guide and the bar that will follow it. I have added pictures of half size model (made of aluminium wires) of the chair so you can see the back piece that is on it's way. If you have other ideas, go ahead!
  12. Fe-Wood The torch holder looks very interesting although I don’t like that the flame goes horizontally. I would prefer to see it go downward with a plate to protect the ciment base. I like very much the idea of the spring loaded left-side clamp; very neat. Would it be dangerous to have the tip of the torch coming up just over and a little bit beneath the pilot flame? That way, letting the shutt-off control arm go open would start the torch altogether. What do you think. By the way, that’s a Gentec gas saver that we see on your photographs. Abenakis
  13. Frosty I have not yet purchased my propane set-up. I am not sure where I will go. Harris has 2 types of mixer for their handles; one is somehow like the Magnum set-up, with the fuel (propane or other) sucked in by the oxygen flow and the other which resemble the Smith handle, with the fuel and the oxygen coming in on their own pressure. This later one is named positive pressure or E, and the other one is F for low pressure system (as little as 4 ounces). However, the low pressure system, when fitted with a heating set-up, will reach only sub 100,000 BTUs. On the other side, the positive pressure system will reach 1,025,000 BTUs but the pressure must be 135 pounds (1600 SCFH) on the Oxy side and 40 pounds (400 SCFH) on the propane side. I am trying to have comparision numbers for the Magnum set-up because price IS an issue for me. Unless you can give me! Abenakis
  14. "I have an Allstates propane oxy torch with a thumb valve on/off" Frosty, what's the tip size you use for heating your work? I wonder how much heat one can actually use before simply spittting a lot of burned gas in the atmosphere. That info could make me change my mind on my propane set-up. Thanks Abenakis
  15. "if one is using a stationary torch and presenting the material to the torch I would like the torch relatively low (waist level) in the stationary position, also it would seem that the pilot light in this case would be in the road. Anyhow explaining this is cumbersome enough, hopefully someone will sort me out. " I found that Harris and Genstar Technologies are manufacturing on/off valve on the handle, same type as you would find on a cutting attachment but with a pilot flame at the tip. If you can have a sort of bar that would push the on/off valve and that would be connected to a pedal, one could have a flexible set-up. I have attached a little support on my bottle stand so that the handle points to the back of the support, at waist height and, when I need to use the torch in my hand, I simply take it out. I am planning to buy handle with on/off valve, probably from Harris, for a propane set-up capable of over 1,000,000 BTU's!
×
×
  • Create New...