racer3j

I am sure this is a very oft repeated question. I tried the site search but was not getting anywhere. I was on Vaughans Hope Shop and saw that they offer some kits for forges. I only saw coal/coke forge kits there. I am still thinking I need to do propane - does anyone offer a good kit? In my case, cutting the steel for the shell is a pain- while I am a more than passable torch welder, I don't shine with cutting torches. And, liner material is something I know little about. Has anyone used a high pressure burner or two from a turkey fryer set-up? They put out scads of heat and are rugged cast iron and cheap. From what I can see, the Vaughans' kits are pre-cut but will be shop welded. Any suggestions?thanks, mike aka racer3j EDIT- I know that I will have to sharpen up torch-cutting- like skills if I am going to have a go at smithing.m

I will get together with you folks. Among other things, I teach Sharpening Edge Tools for Handtool Woodworkers and will be forging planeirons- some just shaping and heat-treating O1 and some traditional forge welding for typical bench planes-wood bodied and infilled. On another note, and this is crazy, at the present exchange rate, my anvil would cost over $1200 before any transportation. So, for product alone, I paid $ 1.38 per pound. I am very excited about this. I will be trying blades as well- I have some good high carbon stock. We still have some jobshops here so I need to find one who can laser cut some .250 O1 plate. But, I have so much to learn and re-learn. I sure hope this is good physical therapy for the southpaw torn rotator cuff. More likely force the surgery. I have some very dry 4 x 4 oak and would like info on building a base- I need to kill the ring. I'll need a wood base and some sandbags- an experienced smith told me today that hanging an item through the pritchel by a "hook" will also help. And, I need a leg(stake) vise. I have to wrap hardened chain around the anvil and weld it into those orange, in ground, eye looped auger stakes. Better make the under ground call . I have a 70 pound Rock Island 5 inch vise- I guess I could weld fab the stake/leg. I am excited out of my mind. I am too old to get this way, but it feels great. I get my SS in June.Thanks and best regards, JET( nickname is "Mike"- if I told you I'd have to k___ all of you)

T'would be even funnier in GBP per pound. I found the connection between Vaughan and Brooks. They appear to now be vending under Vaughan. I am looking at a propane forge from one of the ebay regulars, the two burner knife maker/ general smithing- the guy with the formed, coated liner. Talked to him on the phone- he was a gentleman- told me what he does for his and did not badmouth any of the competition. I found sources for the parts to make my own, but at regular prices for burners and regulators and valves/hose it is hard to match a pre-built."Bob's your uncle!" I read a selection of posts before registering- I liked that folks here have their opinions, but treat each other with respect- even the arguments were civilized.jet

Brooks had been suggested to me. I did not mention it so anyone's thoughts would be open. I also found Vaughan and it could be one of theirs. My earlier google search for Brooks anvil got nothing. Vaughan does show an anvil with the very same configuration, even the blue paint, and weight is in their range. - I will try again on Brooks. It was a good deal- $2 per pound. Thanks for thinking this quandry over for me.jet

Hello to all- I have not been near an anvil for 40 + years. Even then, it was small parts for plains style half-stock rifle furniture. I worked in a gunsmith shop for a year before I started practicing law. Learned some shade-tree heat treat and torch welding. When I took up racing later in life I torch welded daily and then to tig for chrome-moly sprint car frames and parts- still stress relieved with torch. I have a mig for rough stuff, sold the big tig and so use torch again- making some handtool parts. So, except for welding, and some heat-treat I am just a rookie. My anvil has "1 3/4 CW", a place where the name was likely ground off, and below that space, "England"( area about 1 1/2" tall and not quite as wide as the word "England."). On the other side "87 Kg." These are cast in. The anvil rings on the face with just bare knuckles- side of the horn shows grind from cleaning off mold flash. It has never been used. Hardy is 1 1/4" sq.( still needs to have flash filed out) and pritchel is 3/4." It is painted with what I would call "Record blue." This refers to the usual hue of Record handtools and vises. OAL is 27". Face is 4 1/2" wide and 16 1/2" long, then a lower by 3/4" flat face, 3" long and 4 1/2" wide. It is 12" exactly on the height of the face. The horn does not have a significantly dished sweep- main diameter is just over 3 1/2" tapering to 7/16" nose. Those are about all of the features I can think of to help with ID. I am right in town, so I will be using a Propane forge- right now I am too lazy to mess with wool and cement and finding good jet burners- will likely buy. My father and his father are probably "spinning" - they were both fuel engineers specializing in coal. I am sure all of you can teach me plenty. Any help on the anvil will be appreciated, though who made it won't change how it will work unless it is from a foundry that casts in defects routinely. I haven't hit it with a hammer yet. Best regards, jet.