FieryFurnace

Or how about just putting the orginal rubber safety tips on the broken end, (After it's filed smooth) surrounding that with, say tire tube rubber, and duck tape the hole thing on the end? I taped the original safety tips on the ends before because they kept slipping off and I was afraid that one time I wouldn't notice untill too late. It seemed to hold up well. I only suggested putting the extra rubber on the end since the shorter blade would be a little stiffer. This would exclude any welding or whatever to retip! Once again I'm not going to be slamming them into my buddies boddy. Even in the coriographed fights I'll keep it slower now.

Today we welded the second lid together and also welded the hinges onto the lids/boxes. They work tolerably well and they look ok too. Got the fire pot welded in too. Supposed to head to the junk yard tomorrow to try to get some tires. New tires cost ~$120.oo for the tire/rim!!! Pics tomorrow!

Thanks! sounds like something I could! Supposed to head to the junk yard tomorrow sometime.

Alfred McClure would be worth a four hour drive!!! A more jolly fellow is not to be found! The first time I met him he was wearing his Scottish "utility kilt." (He's scottish through & through.) Being the nut I am,, I stepped up upon being introduced and said something like, "How air ye todey me laddie?" in as strong a Scottish accent as I could muster. He didn't miss a beat, but with his normal beaming grin said something like, "Right dandy I am, and thanke fer askin me ladd." In just as strong of an accent! Tell him I said hi!:D

OK! Advice headed! How do I "retip" it? Is that upsetting the end or welding a ball on the end?...or none of the above? The broken blade is about the length of a standard cutlass now, so if I could retip this one I might downsize my other one and retip it too. Then forge some more traditional looking handguards for reenacting purposes. What size tip do I need? Thoughts??? Thanks!!! Dave

Leg part for a ball and chain set? Frizby? What's the hoop game they play at CW reenactments where they roll the hoop around? INCOMING!!! Sereously, I hope you have a power hammer. If not, my suggestion is to give it to somebody who does! Toilet seat? I hope it has a built in heating element for the winter months!!!:D

I have a broken fencing epee that I want to repair. The tip broke about 9 inches from the very end and it broke off flat. My guess is an over hard spot in the blade. (don't know what took it so long to brake as me and some friends have done some REALY hard and fast coriographed (SP?) fights with it) I want to weld the tip back on so that it can be used for light coriographed/practice fights ONLY. NO, go at your buddy and try to run him through, fights!!!!!!! I figured if I welded it, the part right at the weld would be something like annealed if I let it cool in the air after welding. (Or on top of a dying forge fire.) Then what. I can't re-harden/re-temper the whole blade. Is there anything I can do for just the tip where I weld it? Can I leave it "annealed and would it work ok for light planned sparring? Once again I am not going to use this for thrusting into the body after/if I fix it. ANY thrusting will be either parried or will be thrust inbetween the arm and body as a "planned" fight. However I don't want the tip to be constantly bending. Thoughts??? Thanks!!! Dave

A friend of mine wants some small throwers. I would like to know if leaf spring would be ok and a sugested tempering method. Thought??? Thanks!!! Dave

No extra tarps! One for the pigs, two for wood pile #1, one for wood pile #2 and zero for Dave's trailer!!! Managed to get some more welding wire. I went to a Napa auto parts because Ace didn't have any! Well, Napa had the 10 lb roll, so I took it to the counter and handed it to the lady, who took it, rung it up, looked inquiringly at me, (no doubt noticing my youth) and said, "Are you sure this is what you want?" To which I replied, "How much is it?" (There were no prices) Behind the counter lady: "$74.00!":o Me: "Give me the 2 lb. roll?":D The two pound roll was cheeper than Ace! If I'd known that Napa had the ten lb. roll it would have been cheeper for me to just buy the one than all the 2 lb. rolls I'm going through on the trailer! Oh well! Updates Monday!

If it's killing you imagine what it's doing to ME! Bad weather here so I probably won't be able to work on it again 'till Monday! I hope to get all the welding done then and start the prep work for painting. I had all nice, for the most part clean, steel so I was hoping I wouldn't have to do much wire wheeling. Well, it rained all last night, and we are supposed to get more, so ALL the steel is turning nice redish brown. So much for not having to do too much prep work!:(

I cut the hole for the blower today! I have a piece of 1/4 plate for the forge that is about 5' x 2'. Obveously that is too big for the forge so the actual forge is going to be about 3' x 2'. May be a bit more than 4'. The blower is going to take up the rest and it will also give me a flat place to put hot steel tools or whatever. Well, I have to cut a hole so the air pipe can go through the plate to the bottom of the fire pot. That's what I did this morning. I can't recall if I mentioned this, but we are once again out of welding wire. I also need some 1/4x2 inch flat bar for the edges around the forge. So work on the trailer is suspended until we get those. Meanwhile I forged my first hinges for the tool/coal boxes. They turned out well, and on the pieces that will be upright I made it into a sort of J-hook. Pictures later!

Check out my web site "poduct list." It has some of the stuff I do pictured. Give ya some ideas on simple projects that exercise and improve the basic skills. Rebar is ok; Ieven have some, but is there a place near you where you can get rods/bars of steel? (junk yard, welding shop, etc.) You wouldn't have to do near as much shaping to get the final product. Wrought-iron works Dave

I'd do it! I'd probably make something real ugly, but I'm in!

good job! My "first trys" didn't look that good. Suggestion: Could just be the picture but it looks like you're using some hefty stock. If so back off a little on the size of your steel. 3/8ths" and 1/4" is my recomendation! I've been forging for 2+ years and I rarely use anything over 3/8ths. It's a lot easier to work with in my opinion! Of course if any size steel is not readly avaliable than keep using what you're using now! You obveously now how to work with those sizes well! Keep it up!

And here are the rest... Fire pot! 1/4" plate. I prefer 1/2 but couldn't get any smaller pieces! Air slits in the fore pot! This is the pipe that will make up most of the air duc! I'm hoping to do a weighted ash dump! I doubt I'll be able to work on it tomorrow but I'll have updates soon!

underslung? That mean putting the axle where the wheels are under the trailer? If so, it's for CW reenacting so I need the wheels as out of site as possible. They will also be covered with burlap or canvas. It also elevated the forge to the perfect working height! Here are some more pix! There is the complete coal box! 1 1/2' x 1 1/2' x 2 1/2' overveiw "fore to aft!" Cutting the fire pot hole in the forge plate! ME! Fondly caressing my Champion #40! More coming! Winting for them to upload!

Here are the rest! That's all for now! I think the pictures are pretty self explanatory. More tomorrow!