FieryFurnace

I use my nose!!! I don't have anything at all. It goes wherever the wind blows. I don't have any suggestions either. You might could rig a shop vac in a hood of some type to provide some suction. The picture you posted with the hood on a forge; I don't think a hood like that will work. I think you will have a hard time getting a good draft I have seen hoods but they enclose the fire completely with only a small opening for the steel. (6-8 wide maybe a foot tall) a door goes on the back so it can be opened to allow longer pieces to be heated. On my trailer I am going to build a large hood with a custom opening in front so I can see the steel from where I stand at the blower, and it will have some type of door in the back. But, the fire will be enclosed on 3 sides and will probably be closed up on the front a little. The front may be hinged to allow extra large steel and also coal to be added. I don't have any drawing/or pixs yet because I am going to build the forge so I can get the exact sizes cut for the hood. Anyway, hope that helps. Dave

Similar in all respects to mine! The blower is the same except that mine has a one bolt bracket on it! My forge is the same but mine don't have the endintions in the side. I had to build a tuyere, firpot, new legs, and blower bracket for mine so your lucky getting one set up already! I got mine for $150 but I probably have $200 in it, so I consider you got a good deal! Fired it up yet?

I wouldn't give over $150 for any blower! I don't recall seeing any go for over $200 myself! I have two Champion #40 blowers (yes 40 not 400) that I paid $125 & $150 for respectively! (The second is a sized down version of the #40 but it came with a forge that needed a lot of TLC. The forge was free and the blower cost $150) I paid $75 for my 4 inch post vice and that seems to be the average for that size. I don't know about the larger sizes. Hope that helps! Dave

Hi! First, I love swords, and the one you did looks very nice! I can't say that I agree fully with the advice about going ahead and starting with carbon steel. I tried that a few days ago and ruined a couple of good pieces of carbon steel. (Tiller blade and sucker rod to be exact.) Also I can get my mild steel realy cheep! 2"x1/4" flat bar is aprox. $0.50+ a foot On the flip side if you do use carbon you will kill three birds with one stone: you'll learn to shape your swords, practice working carbon, (without splitting it like I did) and practice tempering properly! I've been forging for about 2+ years and I have only made one knife and have never made a sword. My point is that it will take time! I have never tempered anything either. Well, actually I did temper my hardie but that was a complete accident! One reason I haven't made a sword is that I like a long thin thrusting blade that requires maximum flexibility. I have no idea were to start as far as what carbon type and temper color, and can therefore offer no advice as to that. Once again the sword you did looks great, and well shaped! Dave Custer

I use a 2 1/2 lb. cross peen from home depo for all my work, and I've been using it for the past 2+ years. One corner of the peen could use some slight reshaping and the handle is about to come off. I think I paid about $20.00 for it. So you can get a decent hammer that way! I used vice grips for the first year but I don't recommend it. If you have the money I would say go ahead and buy some tongs. I have one pair if 3/8" round tongs, but they hold the same in square and will handle 1/2" round as well. They aren't as good with flat, but if I'm carefull I can use them for that as well. So you can get one pair and make do if you have to!

Also forgot to mention that I got to use my supposedly cast iron anvil. I used it's perfect edges to help with the tongs! The anvil has absolutely no ring but it will bounce the hammer into your face if your not carefull. I took a light ball peen and slammed it ball side first onto the face and it didn't dent it at all!!! I also worked the 1/2 square used for the tongs on the edge with no damage to the anvil. Finally I hit it with the 2 1/2# cross peen (Face first:)) with no defect! So I'f it is an ASO then someone must have welded a realy good hard plate on it!

Today was just one of those days! The weather was perfect, I felt good, and everything just flowed smoothly together. First, I worked on some of the hooks for the curtain rods I'm doing. We have 5 double windows and I need three hooks per window! That's one leaf hook on each end and a standard J in the middle. 1/4" round for the hooks! I got 5 leaf hooks done and started on one of the rods! I don't have any pictures of those yet. Before I started on that I docided to make some tongs! I haven't made a pair on my own yet. (shame since I been forging the past 2 + years) I've done one pair for 3/8" round with another blacksmith but he superintended the whole thing. That was over a year ago, and I still haven't made my own pair. I realy needed some tweezer tongs to help with the curtain rod so I made a pair. They work but they "ain't" heaven. However they are sturdey and strong! I made them out of 1/2" square about 7 inches long! Opened! The mouth opened! FFF Dave Custer

Beautifull! I do a random "peen" texture as I prefer the large texture marks over, say a chisel. I love the even texture, combined with the bigger "peen" textured look!

Welcome to the forum and welcome to blacksmithing! Where are you located at? You can put that on your profile thing but I don't know how! LOL:D Dave Custer

I can't figure out how to edit my other post so I'll just post again! There are catogories for a reason, and I understand the amount of work the moderators go through to keep this site up. I want to apologize publicly to the forum for saying that the way did. I didn't mean it near like I worded it. I was trying to encourage a new member, but I should have properly directed him as well. I'm sorry! Dave Custer

1: Not the wrong place! Sure it's about knives but who cares! I rarely post any questions anwhere else regardless of the theme. 2: different isn't bad at all! I live off different! I LIKE IT! 3: Honest opinion eh? Yes, they are different! No, I wouldn't make mine that way! (I prefer straight double edges) No, it doesn't matter what I prefer! Indaviduality is what has kept this art alive! Yes, they look terrific and very well finished! Great job! Keep it up!

To make things more complicated: I've used bellows once and persponally wasn't impressed. If you have a swap, buy and, sell type radio station I would start there. Call several times over a week or so. I called our radio station twice and ended up with two blowers and one fixer upper forge thrown in. I didn't get super deals (paid $125 for one and $150 for the other) but you don't have to pay crazy shipping fees, (ebay) or drive a ways. (craigs) Plus you might trip across some free steel, coal, old files, or odds and ends to use in your shop. Both the guys I bought my blower from had all kinds of stuff laying around! Good luck!

I'm trying to live in the 1800's here so we have to drop the jack idea. The wood might work but it's something extra I would have to worry about toteing around. I want to dump my bucket of tools in the tool box drop the pin into the tongue hitch a leave! (More or less!) I think I am probably going to make a stump stand, or something of the sort, and make it where the anvil is not attched. Then it will be relatively simple to set up the anvil. Also, if I did that I could move the forge to the back and not have to worry about catching my tires on fire from the heat of the fire pot.:o

The axel will be placed inbetween the middle channel steel and the next on back. I think with the leaf springs and all that it will be far enough away from the firpot. If not the forge can be moved!

Didn't even cross my mind that I would get bounce from the suspension! Perfectly right there! Spike, The forge will be mounted directly on the trailer. I will stand on the ground! Therefore the set-up will be the same hight as a forge sitting on the ground; the only difference will be that it's on wheels!

I'll be working solo. We have a regular booth set-up to display products. Mom mans that! I'm building the trailer completely from scratch so I can position the axel/forge so that they don't get in each others way. Positioning the axel farther to the rear will eliminate the need for jacks. (except on the tongue of course) The anvil may not work on the trailer so I'm leaving that option open. However the frame is 2x4" channel so I don't think I'll have any bounce. Also I can position the axel farther to the rear for support to the anvil because I am getting a 1 ton rated axel. Good points though that I haven't though of, and they will keep me cautious while I am building it so I don't weld something where it shouldn't go! Thanks and keep em coming!