arftist

Hey Crunch, 6010 and 6011 are general purpose, mild steel rods. Sure they penetrate deep, especialy 6010, and it probably will not be the weld itself that fails...yet failure is almost sure to ensue. At a minimum 7018 is needed for anything medium carbon, along with proper procedure. As was mentioned, The best solution to your problem, IMHO, is to learn to sharpewn the blades yourself. You will likely find that they last five times longer or more if you do them your self. I sharpen blades for a local lanscaper. I don't care how much metal I take off, as long as he likes how sharp they are. Thats not really true, I don't wantonly waste the metal, but I am certainly not all that carefull either. Buy some new blades, sharpen then with a file.

Hey, Crunch, please don't take this wrong, but these guys are correct, this is a very bad idea. Just the fact that you want to weld high alloy steel with 6010 or 6011 is more than enough info for me to know that you shouldn't be doing this. Nothing personal, but your neibors have a right to stay alive, even if you don't care about your legs and feet.

Wow, what a great price. I can't help with the manual, but I remember that machine from high school shop class. Great buy!

Thomas and Frosty took the words out of my mouth. Nice design, well executed. Very stable looking. GoodJob!

Not quite. When you lessen the stroke of an air hammer you surely lessen the velocity of the tup, unless you are trying to tell me it reaches maximum velocity instantly. As far as the mechanical hammers go, if properly designed, there is no loss of throw whatsoever. The older hammers with the dupont linkage may suffer this limitation, as well as the tire hammers if they also have the dupont linkage, but helve hammers can easily be set up to have a six inch or more variation in bottom dead center. In addition to this adjustability, in my hammer (based on a rusty), I set the bottom of the stroke when adjusted all the way down on top of two 1.5" spacers, which I can remove anytime I need more height for tooling, thick stock or whatever.

Yes, take the screw out and look in the box too. That vice looks fairly good. The main thing that needs work other than the screw is the pivot pin. When the movable jaw is lower than the stationary jaw, the pin is worn or the holes egged out. Asuming your screw and box are in good shape, this vice is a pretty easy fix.

Wow, thanks for the tip about double enlarging. It does look like concrete in the round can as well. I guess the strain of baning out sppons isn't that great. Very surprising.

Mousehole is an english brand of anvils made for a couple hundred years, wrought iron body, hard steel plate fire welded to the wrought iron body. High quality anvils. Rathole is an american brand of anvils, presently in production, cast ductile iron, if I remember correctly, also very high quality. Don't forget gosintas and comesoutas

Yeah, I don't think he is using concrete for anthing other than holding a good size round steel anvil.

That thing is hurt bad.

Let's do something about that HF ASO! There is a thread under the Shop Tips and Tricks section with the above title that you might find interesting.

Thanks, cool pic.

Can you price in having the whole railing hot dip galvanised? Thats what I do when I use collars on outdoor work.

You must be talking about the Miller Diversion 165. Pinjas wants to manufacture a product. The 165 is a hobby machine, with a low duty cycle and preset controlls. You get what you pay for. I use all manor of TIGs, from old lincoln tombstones with high freq adapters, to synchrowaves to dynastys to thermal dynamics, to engine driven with adapters, etc. on a regular basis. I feel like I am well qualified to say that the newer machines and some features like wave balance and pulse can be easier to use, but not better. If you can't TIG aluminum, you can probably make a pretty bead sooner with a newer machine, but when you go to a different machine, you will make a pile of grapes.

Do you know if that machine is AC only or DC only? If it is AC it is hard to weld 7018. You would need about 30% more amps than the same diameter 6013. If it is DC, they are usualy set up for reverse polarity, but you should be able to change the polarity either with a switch or by swapping the cables. My guess is that it is an AC machine. If so, next time buy 7018 AC.

Bronze is a copper based alloy, with supposedly no zinc, therefore why would you call silicon bronze a brass? Other than that, I agree, seldom does one see copper/tin alloys.

Hello and welcome> I am the proud owner of a mint 70# fisher eagle. I use it for fine work only. I would love to have a 300-400# fisher.

Silicon bronze (655) is easiest to forge. Did some yeaterday at heat ranges from dull red to cold (outside, bright sun, gas forge). Naval bronze will also forge well. Fe-wood, I seriously dought you had naval bronze. Not sure what it was. Just being on a boat doesn't mean it is naval bronze. Frosty, everdure is for the most part silicon bronze. Too hot maybe, as Thomas suggested? Also, as bent iron suggested, cast can be more difficult. I had some rail parts cast, knowing I would then bend them to lefts and rights (too cheap to carve two patterns). When I told the founder (mill spec), he was quite surprised that I could work the stuff. I had him make an extra fitting, and experimented with it first. I suspended the part on a fire brick, with some hanging off, then set the flame to it. As it stated to show color, it bent down from it's own weight. When it got to the melting point, it became hot short and broke off. Having learned the color spectrum this way, I knew my limits.

Crown is easy,Set the compound rest at 1 degree, cut to the right from the center of the wheel, set the compound at one degree on the other side of zero, cut to the left from center of wheel. You must feed the cutter with the compound screw, not the carraige feed. That is all, very simple.

I am not familar with the machine you are building, but I have made plenty of aluminum drive and idler wheels. Find some sealed bearings for the idler with the correct I.D. for the ider shaft you are using. The O.D. isn't critical as you will be cutting a spot in your aluminum wheel for the bearings to sit in. For the drive wheel, a bit of a crown is most likely needed, between 1 and 2 degrees usualy works.

An air gate should be installed on the inlet side only. This way the motor is not loaded and the air does not get overpressurised. With an inlet side air gate, a rheostat is not needed.

First of all, that is not an old worthless lathe. It is quite capable of making blacksmith shop tooling. Second, it is far to small and light to do any significant twisting. A pipe threader is better suited for twisting anyway. A large gear head lathe as opposed to a belt drive make does make any adequate twister.

There are so many ways machines (especialy lathes) can be set up, it is dificult to guess what that rig is for. I had an old freind who remarked that a blacksmith spends his whole life making tools and fixtures to save time, do a better or faster job, then when he dies, someone comes along and says what is all this stuff and throws it all away. As far as info on your lathe, you could google a patent, or try one of the yahoo groups that specialize in machinists or lathes.

Don't worry Jimmy, even if the vast majority of member here become energy independent, you will still have a market.

What Grant said. I found an old Tom Thumb pipe threader that had a 3 jaw scrolling chuck on it. It had been outside for years and was rusted solid. I freed it up somehow, without heat. Keep putting the PB blaster to it, and tap around the chuck LIGHTLY with a very small hammer. It will come free. It is a nice little lathe. Probably just big enough to make the tooling you need. If you can find an old machine transmission, like a UNI-Drive or a Drive All, then you wood just have to fit one pulley to the shaft. At one time, machine transmissions were faily common.