eseemann

You need to worry about that dog, it looks way to stressed.

I was just reading the wiki on Monel and not for nothing but it is used with contact with hydrofluoric acid is needed. This stuff looks like it would scoff at your bits and blades for sure.

I don't think this shaft is anything so exotic and it is magnetic. I also have things that I keep around to remind me I am not 1/2 as smart as I think I am from time to time. Ernest

My Mom's side of the family has gifted me with 1 Height 6' 8" and a fear of high places 2 A love of music with not a bad voice a tin ear 3 A thick head of hair and almost 65% beard coverage on my face Don't you just love genetics?

If what I am seeing on Youtube is really a Cole Drill it looks like a device to put a lot of force on the drill bit. I am sorry to say I do not have one of these but it looks neat.

Because I am too pig headed? The shaft fits like a glove so that is why I liked it. Thanks for the info, the shaft had what looked like a universal joint coupling on it but I think you are right I need to anneal it before I try anything else. Have a good weekend.

Good Morning all, I have some kind of axle that I want to use as part of a power hammer. I would like to drill a hole in the shaft for pins at each end. I have tried consumer grade Titanium bits, the axle scofted. I was able to make a good size pock mark with a solid M35 cobalt steel bit and cutting oil. I am starting to think I need to use the low speed carbide bits that lock smiths use on a safe. Please let me know if anyone has any other ideas. thanks

You have a VERY good point about the $$.

Brian, I am in Madison Al as well and I have a good bit of old farm steel I would be happy to share if you would like. This type of steel is good for blades and tools. The steel at Limestone steel is good for most things other than blades and punches. You can also go to L Miller & Son Inc for rod, bar, flat and other types of stock. (606 Triana Boulevard Northwest, Huntsville, AL 35805 Phone:(256) 536-1521) I go to the "Pre-cut stock" (scrap) yard in Fayetteville TN a good bit (BOOTS, not shoes) and have picked up all sorts of good stuff. I have some old buzz saw blades that I got for free that would be good for stock removal or in a pattern weld. These are about 28" blades, think old movie where someone is tied to a log in a saw mill. Any one near Fayetteville, TN if you have not been to Park City recycling you should. I just came back with a bag of RR spikes, one track tie plate, two things that look like REALLY big pins like you would have to hitch up a equipment trailer and what I think is some part of a forklift tine. 98lbs $29.00. They had a bunch more of the tie down plates and more spikes as well. Park City Recycling 19 Airport Road Fayetteville, TN 37334 (931) 433-9300 One more thing, stop at "The Junque Yard" the guy there is starting out as a hobby smith and he turned me on to the scrap yard so show them some IFI love. 1627 Huntsville Hwy Fayetteville, Tennessee 37334

I cannot wait to find out myself.

One other thing about the liquid fueled torches. Some were kerosene/ liquid paraffin. These are less energetic than gas and have a lower BOOM potential. Safe, not by our postindustrial revolution standards. I would not mess with it unless you have someone that knows their stuff and not only from YouTube.

Glenn, They still make gasoline blow torches used in China and the former USSR (Russia + everyone else) since it is much easier to get gas than Propane. They are not safe by OHSA standards of say 1970 but they use them for the same reason that people use anything else, they ain't got nothing else. I agree, ending up as the human fireball is a bad thing. Ernest

Where did you get the horn? Looks good.

Charles, I am using a cheap acetylene reg for my propane needs. Spanky, Use L Miller and Son on Governers drive. They are way cheaper than (for example) Tractor supply for acetylene exchange. There are lots of O/A sets on craigslist.

Frosty, i think you have hit it right on the head. I do not have the flexibility to go play in the dirt nearly as much as I would like. I was just given a spindle/hub bearing set that I have been able to connect to one of the larger break rotors so I may be able to use that. I will post a photo if I can get it in some kind of shape. Ernest

I wanted to show you the RR spike knife my 13 year old Nephew is working on and a spike his Mom cleaned up.

Charles and Yahoo, Thanks for the information, the reason I was looking at the Neon rear axle is I (impulse) purchased the hub/bearing sets for about $8.00 each for 2 brand new and now in true to my (hard headed) way of doing things I am trying to get some type of axle go with them. I was half thinking about buying this small (890 lb cap) utility trailer from harbor Freight (http://www.harborfreight.com/870-lb-capacity-40-inch-x-49-inch-heavy-duty-utility-trailer-with-8-inch-wheels-and-tires-42708.html) and using it for parts. It comes with 2 hubs, 2 small rims and tires, a non-break axle, 2 small leaf springs and steel. Can you point me to a good place for the unbraked trailer axle 250mm long, square or round shaft, taper roller bearings, seal, dust cap, wheel studs and nuts for less than $40? DSW I do keep a tarp and a large roll of thick plastic drop cloth on the car as part of my OSK (Oh S$%T KIT) so I might need to add the padding as well. Ernest

Neil, I am not worried about getting dirty, I have never disassembled the rear breaks of a car and if I did not have the right tools to do it I did not figure I would get very far. I do not mind getting dirty but I like to have a chance of success to show for it. Now I will crawl around the junk yard and get in to all sorts of scrap/junk yard funk and enjoy every second of it. I did not want to work in 2 inches of mud (last time I was there) to figure out I did not know how to take it apart. I can get on of the other dad's from group my daughter is in to go with me if need be. He will have the tools and the know how. The problem is getting the schedules to mesh up is not always so easy. Ernest

Thanks Charles, I have a set of sockets with the 19mm but I will need to find the 32mm. Ernest

DSW, thanks for the advice, the Autozone has a loan a tool program I will check out.

Good Morning all, I have been getting parts together for a Rusty style hammer and I have come up against a problem with terminology. The item in question is the stationary shaft at the rear of a front wheel drive car. I have been told this is called a "spindle" or a "spindle knuckle" for the entire assembly that bolts to the car. I have seen ads for a "stub axle" that seem to do the same job as the spindle. If one (or more) of you good folks have any information on this please let me know. I have wheel hub/bearing assemblies for a 95-98 Doge Neon and a 1998 Acura TL. The local pull a part has the Dodge part for about $40.00 but I will need to buy a 32mm socket to get it off, not to mention get good and dirty, not that getting dirty is a bad thing. So I thought before I go play in the mud I would see if I can order the part used online. Very long story short if I see someone selling a "rear stub axle" for a 95-98 Neon is it a good be that will be the same as a rear spindle. Thanks for putting up with the rambling question. Ernest

Bluezero, Go to the "pages" section and search for junk yard. The topic you are looking for is BP0002 - Junk Yard and Rail Road Steels Also take a look at Anvilfire.com they have a few very good cheat sheets on junk yard steel. Where are you located? Ernest

Thanks for all the good info, if I can not find the rear spindle at one of the "Pull a Part" yards here in Huntsville I have been told about a shop that I can have a pro turn an axle for me. Thanks again, Ernest

HW, That settles it then, I see about getting the shafts that are too wide turned down and keep an eye open for the right kind of OEM axle. Thanks Ernest

thanks L, I took a steel can, mushrooms, and made a test collar and it seemed to work. I will try with something a bit more substantial next. Ernest