peacock

It is not who made the hammer but Hofi made it known. The hammers of that style are just part of the method of hammering taught by Hofi. The design is important to the method as is the method to the design. If you don't know the method the hammer is not too much better than other good hammers. The design with the short distance from the face to the center line of the handle sends less shock to your forearm and elbow. The shape of the handle allows you to relax your grip and still maintain control. There are other hammers with similar designs that will give similar results. I have 2 of Hofis several made by Tom Clark in different weights, and 3 I made myself all work equally well the only difference I can see is the degree of finish. In my opinion it is the hammer combined with the method that is better.

Try taking a good heat then put the bar in a vise edges to the jaws tighten it up for a short time till you see the edges cool a little take it out then to the anvil and go to work. With the middle of the bar hotter than the edges it will move first, then the heat will start to soak back to the edges. I have never done this at the hammer and anvil, but I do it with a power hammer often, just set the flat dies on it till the edges cool then get after it. It will save a couple of heats. Phil

Good point Sam even the current crop of self contained air hammers from Europe (Kuhn, Sayha, etc) have the rotation in line with the long foot print. These hammers have no counterweight. What they do have is a large flywheel compaired to the stroke. Short stroke large bore pump keeps volume up, out of balance to a minimum. Phil

Grant I totaly agree. I have rebuilt about 3 dozen LGs. Some of them Flopped sideways at idle(clutch pulley turning but not hammering) because the clutch and pulley assembly was out of balance mostly because the babitt was poured of center in a previous repair. Even these hammers would not dance if they were bolted down tight. Phil

There are alot of tire hammers around this part of the country. Also several LGs. I have helped more than a few guys with this problem. In every case the problem with them moving around is the base is not flat then the bottom is not shimed enough to compensate for the round bottom. The next thing is anchors do not hold. I have not found any type of drop in anchors ( wedge, lead, red head, etc) that will hold. Cast in the base or good epoxy is all I have found that will not jack out of the concrete as the hammer runs. In another life I have balnced alot of motors and other rotating assemblies. Just not much chance of ever totaly balancing these hammers. Phil

I am a mechanical hammer guy BUT I ran Johns 50 and 75 at ABANA both are real good but the 75 will hit as light as the 50 and a whole lot harder on a full power blow. I believe it is more responsive on less air than any utility hammer I have ran. If you are after a utility hammer you can't go wrong here. The dies line up perfect there is no perceviable slop in the guide system and alot of extras are standard. Phil

The idler is on the correct side of the belt, however the belt is turning the wrong way. The side of the belt closest to the die should be moving from bottom to top. This is a poor example of what this hammer is capable of. phil

Matt and firefarm39 I have found the info you want PM me your address & I'll try to get it to you Phil

forge a ball flatten it a little, punch a small hole, drift to size, finish to your liking. You can change the patteren on the ring by turning the ball so you punch thur in different directions.

Matt I got your email. I will sort thru all my Bradley stuff and get copies made. later today, but right now I am headed to the shop to make 4 plant handers useing the 125 and 40. I have drawing dies on the 125 for breaking down the stock and flat dies set on a slight taper for finishing up the long round tapers the 40 sure saves alot of time on those long tapered sections. They are about 36 inches long 7/8 on 1 end down to 3/8 can rough out in 1 heat on the big hammer & finish in one more on the 40. I'll get the stuff rounded up for you soon I think someone else is wanting this info also. Phil

I would be willing to make you some copies of my copies. I really dont want to mail you the original book found between the anvil and frame it is a treasure. I think you are correct the washers are really more like a upside down cup. Pour some of your oil in them they sould come lose. When I get a chance I will take some pics of the 40 it will show you a lot. I piece of advise when you move the hammer take the anvil off. I have seen several frames broken by leaveng it on durning a move. Even our 200 lb compact has been broken this way please play it safe. If you would like to talk on the phone PM me & we'll set it up. Phil

Matthew you will like this hameer when you get it running. I have 2 of these 40's & 125 upright helve they are great hammers. I have books parts list and setup and use manuals on the 40 lb cushioned helve. also parts break down and list. You have recieved some infor that is not correct Courtland machine has sold at least part if not all of the Bradley interest, not sure who bought it but if I find out I will let you know. You may be missing some parts the cushion cup on my 40 has a large washer type cup that sits over the bolt then the bottom rubber cushion another cast iron cup then the top rubber cushion. one setup like this in front of the husk one behind. These should be adjusted to just slightly preload the helve just tight enough that you cannot turn them by hand. LOts to adjust on this hammer but well worth it if done right. Most dies have two keys one on each side of the die driven in from opposite directions male or female dove tail has no taper from factory. After market dies may have taper. If I can help let me know I love these hammers. i may have specs on maple helve mine are all laminated up from three pieces. Phil

I just checked all the cushions on a 200# compact 125# upright helve and both 40# cushioned helve hammers/ Also checked 4 new rubbers (never used) made by Higbee Gasket about 6 years ago. All checked from 70 to 80 duro "A" scale. Also checked some very old ones that checked 100, but after I took the old crust off they to were in the 70 to 80 range.

wrap it around the pot. that thickness won't be a problem if you do it hot it will stay if not you can pull it to the right size mark it cut it and weld or rivet.

Where in Iowa are you? I am about 21/2 hours south of Des Moines. I have 6 hammers in my shop you can come down and run any or all of them & see what you like best. I have 25# thru 125# LGs and bradleys. I think I have all the ones I have for sale spoken for but I don't have any money on them yet. phil

I'll be there. Sid and I will be running a power hammer contest. We suppy the hammer, steel, forge come give it a try Phil

You will save a little machine time if you only turn the ends where the crankplate, bearings and pulley go. If you are going to pour new babbit and the shells are big enough you can leave that 1.625 and pour the babbit that size. Sorry to hear about the pulley that broke, but you may want to think about putting a 2 groove v belt pulley on it. You can buy an 18 inch pulley and hub from surplus center for about $80. If you do that might need to turn the back end to 1.5 inch. that could be a nice up grade. If you go that way just polish up the shaft & use it as a mandrel before you turn the ends. Some things to think about. Phil

I have not worked with a champion but many hammers have a tapered key driven in from the end along with a fairly snug fit on the shaft. The crankplate will break easily so I recommend that you cut the shaft off close to the back side of the plate. center punch the center then start by drilling a small hole then step drill til you get to the key way the shaft will press out with ease. You are going to make a longer shaft anyway so it is best to be on the safe side. I have made many of this type conversion to little giants so the belts can be changed without taking the bearing caps off. works great .Phil

Some Bradley hammers use a rubber cushion for the down stroke and a leather strap for the upstroke. I knonw there is a difference in helve and air hammers but the forces are very similar. Bradleys use this on hammers from 15 to 500 lbs. Is really pretty simple and the idea may be useful on the Kinyon style hammer.

Most old mechanical hammers are cast steel ram on cast iron frames keep it oiled and run close fit and it will run for years and years. If you don't keep the clearence tight scale will get in the guides and eat up the machined surface. Then when things get really loose the ram will start slaming around and forge the hammer ways apart.

Sorry Grant if the hammer is making nearly full strokes 20 or 30 seconds is long enough. As fr as turnings I get some from big plumbing shops. pipe threading makes really nice curly chips. If you take a container for them to dump there pan in they are happy to help you out.

I have used my hammer for 8 years. I worked with Tom from the begining of his assocation with this hammer. You are opening the oil valve way too much. My valve is open about 1/8 turn. As long as you have an oily film on the ram you have enough oil. If you use the hammer for extended periods it will warm up. Of corse it should not smoke or smell hot but friction and compressed air will create heat. Inside the cover on top of the rear cylinder there are 2 check valves if one or both of these has come off you will get excess oil in the exhaust. You can check this by removing the mufflers turn on the hammer hold yuor hand over each pipe one should blow the other suck If not you have a problem with the check valves.One way to test for enough oil is to hold a clean piece of paper over the exhaust with the hammer in use if you have a LIGHT mist you have enough oil. Phil

If you want to make billets with this. Take the crankshaft and conrod off use the ram and guide add a hyd ram, valve, and pump and you will have a pretty good press.

class 0f 1967

use a smaller end mill or drill the 34 degree hole in a 1/2 or thicker piece of plate clamp that to your railing part and use that as an angled drill guide. clamp it realy good so it don't walk off the correct spot. if you can set it up with a hardend drill bushing will be even better.