peacock

The lack of die opening is the big down side of the tire hammer design, no way to adjust the ram for more space. A sow block on the anvil could help this problem. I'm not trashing tire hammers they have a place but tall tooling is not it.

Move the anvil back towards the main frame. You may have to enlarge the holes in the base plate and shorten the strap. If you slot them you can move it back then clamp a plate on each side of the dies to line them up then torque the bolts. When you get the anvil where you want it you could weld some square stock to the base plate snug against the anvil base so you can return it to the correct spot if needed.

Sign me up.

When I need a really even heat it sometimes helps in the gas forge if I get the steel good and hot then turn the forge off leave the door shut for a minute or so and the heat will even out. In a coal forge cover it with coal and turn the blast off let it set a little bit before you take it out. I think it helps.

Not a good base for a press. It would be a great start for a utility air hammer.

The first 2 of Tom Clarks anvils were 440C stainless. The place that cast those anvils poured alot of 440C and talked Tom into trying it. Long story short after a lot of heavy use the horn broke off at the hardy hole. Thought was the hole let quench thru and got it too hard there. Had cracks in the corners of the hardy hole that suggest may have cracked during heat treat. I am not sure what happened to those anvils. One may have went to Isreal.

Phillip it looks great. I have a 125 just like it and it's a beast. On the drawing die it will pinch a cold 5/8 square into with 2 blows. It will also taper 1/4 inch to a fine point with no problem. these are realy great hammers, however they don't compare well on the current test as the slack belt clucth don't get moveing till about 6 or 7 blows. Enjoy your hammer we will talk about your dies soon.

bitu. coal weight about 81 lb cubic foot. 25 cubic foot per ton.

I'm a fan of 3 legs also. When I have 4 or more I try to design the legs with section near the top so I can heat a section with a torch and draw it out enough to level it up. That way I am not changing the shape of the leg only the length. Go easy it don't take much. Your goal is to only have to draw one leg one time. On your piece if you would started the twist shorter you would have a straight part up under the cup to work with. I use a bic iron in the hardy hole and a small long neck hammer to reach into those tight places.

Grainger has complete new fillters for air compressors, several sizes listed by inlet size and cfm. Size I think you need, around $30.

I have forged 19 anvils from a solid cube of steel by myself using my powerhammer. Most never had one blow with a hand hammer. I have many witnesses. If you would like to see pics go to New anvils in the anvil section of this forum. I know the process i just need bigger equipment.

I agree with fciron. I haul my 25# in my Colorado all the time. I have a 2 1/2'x4'x5/8" plate on the bottom of the hammer. Gives a bigger foot print, rides good standing up.

That hammer is about 900#. With the shaft removed your plan sould work fine. I lift from the throat (top of the c) all the time. Mark the top caps before you remove them so you can put them back where they came from. Welcome aboard, will look forward to more post. If you need help there's about 1000 years experience on this site, all glad to help.

James, I agree, the late Tom Clark proposed the same kind of test you are talking about in july of 2008 to be done at Quad states. No other hammer dealers showed up. What a shame.

Big Blu,s website list flat die size as 1.75 wide. No way they were forging 2" of stock. The second set of dies look like what they use in the test, they call those radius side dies. Even so they are only 1.75 wide.

Thanks confermed my suspecions.

Monster would'n it only be half? Everything on the other side of the earth is trying to fall off. This test is not valid, their own test proves it. If the dies were flat why did changing from the end of the die to the side make such a differnce? A die that starts out flat but then has large radius put on them may still be flat in the middle but as soon as the stock spreads beyond the flat the hammer is no longer forging the 1 or 2 inches of stock. Also because the edges are not in contact with the dies they are thicker and retaining heat. It took them 2 years but they have produced a very crafty video.

Whats up with the 40? Weather maybe a factor, just don't forget us when you have some progress to report. Don't lose your enthusiasm they are great hammers. Phil

What about welders do they affect it. A friend has a pacemaker & he cannot be around welders or an electric fencers.

If it were mine I would leave the dies just as they are and box around the cut out. A good box on each side will fix it.

I use 4 cubic inches per pound. That leaves 10% for scale and finish. 1 cubic inch of steel = .284# Round DxDx.7854xL= cubic inch most other shape LxWxH

Curly I am very suprised you knew my address, or did you send it direct deposit?

Brian don't you think Mr. Cox is a little formal for us Phil works just fine unless you would prefer Mr. Brazeal. Hanna has #6 it is good to hear she still has it. I have tried to keep track of who has them all. Some how #12 is not recorded if someone out ther knows who has it please let me know also the date you got it. by the way The mule head fork you traded for the anvil is a treasure to my wife & I.

As a rule I chisel from 4 sides but what you have done is fine to that point. After you have 4 parts joined at the ends I heat it up place end on the anvil hit the other to open up the center. When you have it open enough that you can get it over the horn tap 2 of the 4 together on each side then work to as round a cicrle as you can make it. you should now have a bar with a circle in the center all in the same plain.take a chisel and open up into 4 bars keeping the circles as round as possible. Try to get the loops 90 degrese apart. now take a nice even heat put one end in the vise hold other end with tongs and a twisting wrench pull and twist at the same time till you get what you want. It is much harder to explain than to do it.

Thanks for the orders guys. Now if you all will kindly send deposits I will get started looking for a 30 ton hammer. Should be able to fill those orders by the 3rd of never. Have a great new year & keep on post'n.