peacock

I mix at a ratio of 20 parts linseed oil to 1 part beeswax. I keep it in the wifes old crockpot, about 1/2 full I just leave the paint brush in it. Get a little sloppy around the rim and when it cools off the lid is sealed, comes loose when you heat it up. I think it works better with the mixture hot and the part warm. you can apply a thinner coat and it dries quicker

I have done many of those conversions as I rebuild a hammer if the shaft needs replaced due to wear I make a shaft longer to stick out the back. then you don't have to remove the top shaft to replace the belts. All the parts ( clutch spider, pulley and shifting fork) just turn around and go on the rear also makes clutch maintance easier. I suspect this is a retro fit and a darned good one. As far as the 50 with the V-belt gooves, there was a factory part offerd later as an option. Some people ordered the part and installed on their hammers.

I agree Frank. You will spend more time explainig what you need than it would take you to make it, & it'll be right when ya get done.

I really like my P5 flypress for that kind of work. Go to Old World Anvils or Kayne and sons site for pricing.

FE-Wood: I think the bar and chain is your problem. It's too sticky till it warms up. Spray the running clutch with WD 40 to clean the old oil out. Then re oil with ATF it may take a while to get the bar & chain oil out. Don't be afraid to oil it often as the composite lining doesn't soak up the oil like leather does. You may be correct about the grease drag in the clutch pulley, a lighter wt. grease like white lithium may also help.

Forge a blunt 4 sided taper on a piece of square stock. Fuller around stock to start handle. If using 5/8 stock this mass needs to be about 1 1/8 long. place the tapered part on the anvil on the diamond (corner on the anvil) strike the top corner. much like making a leaf the other 2 corners become the the edge of the spoon. if you use a rounding hammer and thin the center of the mass without hitting the edge the bowl will cup. finish over a stake and/or a swage. Thomas, thanks for the RR spike idea the head is an ideal shape. I think you could heat the spike head and use that to burn a depression into an end grain wood stump, then sink the spoon into the depression with the spike head. I have to try that after supper.

I have a 50 and a 25 one has cast iron to cast iron the other is leather both need to be well oiled. 5 or 10 weight motor oil or ATF. Also on the Murry you need to check to see that you have enough return spring tension, or if the treadle and linkage is binding. Lift up on the treadle and see if that lets it release.

Grant is spot on. !/4 inch is not enough. I have used this repair many times. I would use 2 or 3, 1/2 inch bolts. drill 1/2 inch holes to about depth of crack them tap drill below the crack. when tapping blow the chips out often use at least grade 5 bolts. Don't try to remove the die till you do the repair.

I have dried out motors that were in floods. I power washed them to get the sand and mud out. Then we put them in a kitchen oven (not the wife's)and baked them at 250 degrees for 5 or 6 hours with the door blocked open about an inch to let the moisture out. The type of bearings makes allot of difference good sealed bearings come thru it good, unsealed ball and bushing type bearings will need to be removed cleaned and re-lubed. If we needed to remove bearings we did the bake out while the motor was apart.

6x30= about 240# add a good die should make about a 10 to 1 for a 25# My 40 lb. bradley helve hammers anvil weights 900 lb

The single most important thing you need to do before you start this build is learn what a power hammer can do and what it cannot do. It will be very hard to build something that you are not familar with. With that said I will be at Sedila next month. Sid and I will be doing some demos on Little Giant hammers. We will try to answer questions and show what a good hamer can do. Hope to see you at Bam.

I think I may have missed something here. I just walk around my anvil to use what ever part I need to my best advantage. It's sure easier to walk around than to move 400 lbs of anvil and stand.

Based on calculated volume of the cylinder and speed of ram the 1st stage is getting 10.8 gpm at 475 to 600 psi on the gauge, 2nd stage 2.7 gpm at 2500 psi

delivered today 154 sticks of 3/16x2x20ft $14.85 a stick. about .60 per pound.

try moving the roller up to raise the stroke up a little.

Most pump manufactures rate ther 2 stage log spliter type pumps for gasoline horsepower. I think it takes 2.5 gas hp to equal 1 elecric hp. I have ran my 13 gpm pump with a 5 hp 3400 rpm electric for years with no problems. 2500 psi.

If it's not too loose I heat the shank put it in a good vise and upset it till it's a little big then forge it down to fit. If you don't have a vise you can dull the edge a little get a helper to hold it on the anvil to upset and fit then resharpen. If it's hardened you may want to re heat treat, but I never heat treat mine.

3x5 is just right. The bottom die needs to be 5 inchs long the longer foot print gives more support in the bottom dove tail. Also that size will minimize machining cost.

Hi Matthew Glad your back on it I may have some extras. If you have some made don't change size. just get the bolt made to fit the nuts you have they fit into pockets to keep them from turning. They are left and right hand threads, turning center nut pulls both halves together kepping them even. Make sure when they are tight that the trunions are straight with each other. When you assemble everything if the hevle assembly binds in the husk you may have to loosen some and tighten others to get it freed up. That bolt is not hard to make if you need 1 let me know.

It's worth about $180 a ton.

What I like best is a sheep tank. Got mine at the farm store. It's about 45 in" long 24 wide 12 in. deep galv. steel holds about 45 gallons. what I like best is I can get a long piece in it or I can cool the end I hold on to and let the hot end stick out over the other end. If I drop something in it's only about 8 or 10 inches deep. Mine sets on the floor but I may make a stand. floating tank heater in the winter keeps it liquid. Cost $27 15 years ago I think about $60 now but will last a life time. Heater about $20. May seem like a lot of money but no leaks or soaking, won't melt, no rust, no smell.

Really nice work Steve. Look forward to seeing you and seeing it up close at BAM this year.

Mac T, I sometimes make a band to shrink fit on a Little Giant broken clutch pully. It's gotta fit, if done right no welding ,bolts, or rivets, shrink fit makes a nice repair. I also did this on Tom Clark's first air hammer when he was researching the use of the cogged belt, it covered the v belt grooves so we would have a flat pulley.

Inside diameter of ring in inches plus thickness of stock x 3.1416. Less to remember.

If you drill and tap the frame you can make a bolt on bracket, then if it don't suit you, you can remove/replace the lower mount without messing anything up. I think the farther to the rear the upper attachment is the faster the ram velocity will be. I also think more distance between the ram and top cylinder mount the easier it will be on the cylinder as the spring can flex more.