PaulF

I have a Champion no1 power hammer. I have replaced the guides, main and aux shafts and all the fastening hardware. The dies are in great shape and the springs are in perfect condition. I have mounted it on a 3.5x4' 1/2" plate and mounted that on a Doug fir 8x8 platform that is through fastened with 5/8 threaded steel rods, a fairly stout mount even without bolting to the concrete floor. I've also made a new belt and moved the main belt pulley/ sheve (sp) to the rear of the hammer, to allow the motor to be mounted on the deck behind the hammer. The dies are parallel to the hammer (for and aft) not at an angle as some others. Question? Does this position mean an older hammer?? looking forward to getting it running next week! Thanks in advance!

I am also refitting a 65lb no1. I have herd conflicting reports. but, I have observed that the champion I have, is solid cast Iron, no hollow cavities, to break this would be very unlikely. All the parts I have jury rigged were easy to fab from standard bar and plate stock. The hammer can draw a 1" sq bar to a needle taper in about 2 min. Unless the casting is broken at some place I can vouch for the champion 65 pounder.

This is a great topic! I must be a very lucky guy, 20 years ago I bought a 180 lb, 1942 Fisher. I offered the guy $100.00, he gave it to me for $75. Said everyone else try ed to get it for $50. The anvil is in pristine shape. I have since sold my Nimba 475 because it was to big and tough to move around. Thought about getting a 200# Nimba. I'm finding my 100 Kolswa and the 180 Fisher are all I need. Thanks for some great content!!

Might even do some experimentation on differential hardening. Just to see how the material works out. Sorry I didn't mention the use, just wondering who may have used the stuff , how they used it and what they thought of it. I have a lot of it. Never used it before.

This is what I suspected. Oil quench and 450 to 500 temper for 2 hrs. I'll use these tables. https://www.hudsontoolsteel.com/technical-data/steelL6

Not candy dishes. Veg choppers for gifts. Similar treatment for knife blades. I have a lot of O1, A2, D2 and H and S types. But I can't beat the material price. They are probably on the 25-50 year old range, I have a few acquaintances who worked at the mills, but they know way more about wood than alloy steel.

I have acquired several 4' diameter sawmill blades, the teeth are formed of the parent steel and not brazed inserts. These came out of commercial saw mills in Washington. I'm assuming L6?? Does anyone have information or experience with this material? Especially hardening and tempering info? Thanks in advance!

Fabricate one with pipe and plate ends machined to size. I'm looking on as I have a NO1 i'm rebuilding.

anvilfire.com : The Virtual Hammer-In Archives No. 602 - July 2009www.anvilfire.com/FAQs/archives/index.php?f=v072009.htm...Cached Here is the Quote, "My grandfather was a marine, (3rd wave onto Iwo Jima) and he said your standard issue marine could manage to break an anvil with a rubber mallet." As a former Marine, I'm not sure this is true! PaulF

You are most welcome sir. Paulf

Got the new belt made and things are going well!! Francis, I was in the Marines! I followed the directions and had no problems! Cpl P J Farley TAC PARTY 3rd BN 9th Marines 3rd Marine Division 1967-1971

all you need to dtart is a hammer and a fire.......an anvil also helps

If you want to start a whole new tool lust try a plasma cutter! no gas to buy paulf

got the belt, got the clip's, going for it now! Paulf That quiet belt sounds good though!! Paulf

That sounds great. Paulf