Jump to content
I Forge Iron


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About bottles

  • Rank
    Junior Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    York UK


  • Location
    York UK

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. There are Indian/Persian recurve steel bows. No idea of the draw weights. From memory they tapper in thickness and width with a raised central rib. Andrew
  2. I've seen the chain smiths at the Black country museum using this set up. Didn't hear any noises. I'd either have a cistern to automatically fill the tank with a indicator of water depth. In case the cistern stops working. Or refill the bucket at least twice a day to start. These look simpler to fabricate but harder to install then tue and boshe sets. Andrew
  3. I understand the necessity of making the press correctly. What I want to do is understand "how" to calculate the forces and what beams are needed. Batson has his calculations of safety but doesn't explain how these are calculated, which is unfortunate as he shows his working for all the other parts. Though there are no calculations for the h frame. So if I want a wider mouth in the h frame do I just search the web for someone else's build and hope there sums work? Andrew
  4. I'd also be interested in finding out how to calculate the forces in c and h frame presses. Batson has his calculated factor of safety in his c frame presses. But nothing for the h frame. I'd like to know what happens as the width is increased. So as to be able to calculate what could work or what wouldn't. I've found some calculations for beams under load but can't figure how these relate to press calculations Andrew
  5. Don't think I can add much technical to your stamps. The first image of the stamp on the knife looks good except the curved face of the blade lost part of the stamp. What weight hammer are you using? To me your stamp shouldn't be difficult to get work. Have you seen the size of missaglia marks! Andrew
  6. I used the same plans making my burners. I also couldn't find the tips suggested. I'd assumed that they were a us thing. I went with standard might tips. The first few I filled them to shape. I now used them as they come, and find it makes no noticible difference. Andrew
  7. I think there is a picture of one made in "thawa forge" website. An h frame with a basic looking frame. Hydraulics in the UK are loads more expensive then us from what I can see. May be question of scale. Andrew
  8. I have a copy of Batson's and keep looking at various parts to understand everything. Still trying to work out how to calculate safety factors as this isn't covered very well especially for the h frame. I am restricted in the size of motor available and pump. I went for a single stage as the easy option and some here suggest that a single stage pump can be better. Haven't had a chance to play with pressure and motor speed yet. I suspect there won't be any noticable difference. Andrew
  9. Hi quick question on power (psi) versus speed of ram (or pump)? I have a 3 phase 2.2kw (3hp) motor run via a vfd. It has a 4cc (0.25"?) pump running at 1400 rpm. It will easily hit 3000psi at 50hz. My ram is 4" and moves around 1/2 per second at 3000psi. I have a pressure regulator before a solenoid block. The solenoid diverts to tank when not engaged. When the ram moves and contacts hot metal it takes about half a second to reach 3000psi during which time the dies suck out the heat. It does move a reasonable amount of metal. BUT if I increase frequency to 100hz this would give 3 gpm increase the ram speed and dropped the max pressure to 2000psi am I likely to see any real difference? As most of the work seems to happen at the initial contact of the dies especially when screaming hot. Andrew
  10. Have you gone through all of Batson's trouble shooting? What speed had you calculated for this ram and pump setup? My only thought would be how sure are you that the motor is turning in the right direction? Andrew
  11. Have a look at Brindleys of sheffield. They have mild steel balls up to 6"(150mm) and in EN31 up to 150mm. http://www.brindley-steel-forging.co.uk/acatalog/Mild_Steel_Balls.html No affiliation but have bought from them. Andrew
  12. So if my static converter will actually under power the motor, would using a 240 VFD give full power? Having a busy time with work so haven't had time to look at the power pack. Tim I live in York, you have seen my workshop when you helped with my siemans VFD. Andrew
  13. I have seen an other Pilkington that has a square bar in the hole that holds a wide belt control. Guiding the belt drive onto either drive wheel or idle wheel. These wheels are mounted on the same axle as Owens vpulley, though on the other side on the one I've seen. Andrew
  14. I already had the 4kw static phase converter. I don't know much about these. But assuming a 1/3rd loss in power it should be able drive a 2.2kw motor without issues. The phase converter has an amp meter. I need to find time to clean everything and try and flush the system. Then try again with new oil etc.
  15. Well I have finally had time to look at the power pack again. I tried frosty's suggestion on sourcing the problem. Unfortunately without success. Could be the low pressure, flow or the electric solenoids. The tank has crud galore in the bottom, the oil is like milky tea. So I'm going to drain the oil and clean everything. I suspect there may be issues with the pump. How difficult are these to take apart AND put back together and get working? Andrew
  • Create New...