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I Forge Iron

Old South Creations

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Everything posted by Old South Creations

  1. ah, I didn't realize that the open end was the front. After re-reading your post I realize, now, that you did that for longer pieces. Seems like a long way to have to reach to get to your fire...just my opinion. I would definitely make a cutout on the back for longer pieces to pass through. It doesn't have to be very wide...maybe 6-8" .
  2. as already stated, you'll be much happier with 4 legs instead of 6. I would also cut out the sides on either side of the firepot. I like your tong holder...looks far enough away that they shouldn't get hot
  3. I use 2-3 newspaper balls and a couple of pine cones and add the coal once it is burning good
  4. it should work...are you putting air to it? real charcoal or briquettes?
  5. I had heard about Grace from another smith also...appreciate the lead!
  6. I've recently moved and am looking for a coal supplier near Charlotte, NC...any suggestions? I know there was a list of coal suppliers on here at one time but I can't seem to locate it...many thanks!
  7. you can absolutely get a hot enough fire using wood/charcoal. historically, coal is a relatively new fuel for forging. Although I personally prefer coal, I have used both effectively
  8. my smithy has a wood floor. I put concrete board on the wall behind my forge and also on the floor around the forge, anvil, & vise...where I was most likely to drop something. I was also told (although I haven't done it yet) by several on this forum that you can "paint" the floors with water/borax solution and that would also help.
  9. nice job...I think you will like the RR anvil a lot better turned on end and at a better height (your back will appreciate it!)
  10. according to "Anvils in America" (Postman) your anvil would date between 1860 and 1910 (NOT pre 1860)...if the face is made of 2 or more plates it will be between 1860 and 1885 and if the face is made of a single plate it would date between 1885 and 1910...this is not always easy to tell.
  11. I know it's a long range with the markings your anvil has it would have been made between 1860 and 1910. Between 1885 and 1910 they were made with a single face plate (this will probably be hard to see). The lack of a "England" marking would place it pre 1910 not 1900. A little over $2 a pound is not a bad price to pay.
  12. you're off to a good start...hooks are a great first project add your location to your profile...there may be smiths in your area that can help you if you desire
  13. that horn with the "growth" on it is called a clip horn and denotes it as a farrier's anvil
  14. This is what I found waiting on me in my hat this morning...yes, that's a black widow. This is why you should ALWAYS check your hat & gloves (or anything else left outside or in the shop) BEFORE putting them on! hard to tell from the pic but she was a BIG girl!
  15. it is unfinished. what would the borax solution consist of? besides borax , of course
  16. for those of you who have wood floors in your smithy... any accidents? wish it was concrete or dirt? I've recently moved and I have a building on my property with a wood floor that I can use as my smithy. Is that a mistake? I had a dirt floor in my last smithy. Just curious what you guys think.
  17. I bought a Buffalo post drill #611 over the weekend and want to replace the chuck with one to hold modern bits. Just thought I would ask if there are any tricks or secrets to removing the old chuck beofre I tackle it...I don't want to mess anything up.
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