rustyanchor

I had the same experience with Roger Fowlers sales and service in Suffolk VA. I hadn't bought anything from them but needed some advice on not doing myself in on an old tractor I got with a piece of property I bought. The owners son, Todd, was an outstanding source of information and help when I needed it. I recognized their support when it came time to upgrade the tractor, I bought a new tractor and all the implements I needed from them, bought a truck from the father's used car lot. I moved out of Suffolk 2 years ago and brought the tractor with me, it is a Farmtrac which isn't known around here, so when I have a question about how to fix something or need advice on maintenance, I call them and get the question answered. I believe the best recognition you can give a company is give them your business, loyalty, and tell others about your positive experience. A few kind words to the bosses about an outstanding employee doesn't hurt either. Mark

Nicemibs, Nice anvil. Your anvil dates to 1912. Mark

If you can, clean the paint off in the area above 'solid wrought' and look for markings. 163 should be the weight in pounds, is it stamped under the solid wrought? As you are standing infront of the horn, look at the left foot for a S/N. Look under the horn for a number stamped in. I have my guess but I am not an expert. Mark

From AIA: 199XXX is 1912. It is a 3rd style HB with a tool steel upper half, forge welded to a wrought iron or mild steel base. Nice clean looking anvil. Mark

My two bits: looks very cast iron ASO to me. That said, I made enough money to buy a real anvil, tooling and a bunch of other stuff using a cast iron ASO, 2 lb sledge, and an oxy/acetylene rig. I was given the ASO so it didn't cost me anything. Not sure if I would spend $150 on something I was pretty sure was junk. I used what I had available, until something better came along. Mark

John types faster than I take pics but.... Yep the wheel is about done and the guard is removed for pic clarity... Hope it helps Mark

You may, Thank you. I'm still claiming it as mostly mine !!! Mark

If the bar is that hard, try heating it to red and let it air cool it to take the temper out of it. Works for me and farriers rasps. I made the mistake of trying to cut them on my band saw hard, not a nice way to treat the blade. Once they are annealed, I can cut them easily with band saw, hack saw or what ever else. I would give the cut off wheel another shot, you may have gotten a bad wheel. Mark

Everybody can teach me something IF I'm willing to learn. Me

If you are on a ship, go talk to your HT or MR shop, I would bet there is someone that would be happy to drill your jet. On the shore side SWRMC (used to be called SIMA San Diego) has folks that can do a drill job. AIMD on an air facility. There is usually someone around every shop or facility that would be really interested in your forge build and may be able to show you silver soldering or other things hands on.

Kinky....

Get at least a 40 pound tank, smaller goes faster and can freeze in winter. TSC, a gas supplier, or a good hardware store should carry the bigger tanks. Your next "fun" is finding a place that refills rather than exchanges propane tanks, unless you can exchange the bigger tanks. My welding gas supplier will refill or exchange my 40 for the same price. Just a random thought, you do not want the horizontal tank (fork lift type) you want a vertical tank. Mark

Funny, UPS will deliver to the house no problem, but FEDEX will not because there is a piece of electric fence tape (not hot) across the driveway to keep the horses in. FEDEX driver said he was not allowed to open any gates to deliver. I guess it makes sense that FEDEX doesn't want the liability of loose animals. If we know we have a FEDEX delivery coming, we have a bunch of signature forms to leave at the tape so he can leave the package. If you can catch the driver, he should have some of the signature release forms for future deliveries Good luck getting your forge. Mark

That is one handy vise. Nice work Mark

My 0 3 16 Mouse Hole on wheels...The wheels also fit the small forge. Much easier to move around with wheels and a handle than balancing on a dolly.

Can you read the S/N, I couldn't make it out, but if you can, we can get a manufacture date. The shape doesn't look right for a 3rd style HB to me, I would go second style, not to contradict them that is smarter than me, but it doesn't look like mine, too curvy... I would be willing to pay the man and keep you from having to stress over the anvil... Mark

Hay Budden...Hourglass depression in the base and S/N on the left foot.

I have the same habit as ausfire, I put something down and then can't find it, it is maddening. Glenn, good suggestion but my work table is piled with things I want to keep close to hand, so much so that I can't find anything. I guess I need a bigger work table! Mark

Rick, A few more tid-bits on your anvil: All the info I am giving is from AIA; Richard Postman spent years collecting information on anvils and has been kind enough to enlighten the rest of us! If your SN is a 4 digit SN your anvil was made in 1918, there should be an A in front of the numbers. HB reset their SNs after they hit 250,000 in 1917. The 097 on the heel is believed to be a steel batch tracking number. Since HB went out of business in the late 20's, I think we are stuck with the anvils. You were asking if the chisel marks might be from a softened top, if your rebound is good with a ball bearing, your top is still hard. More than likley the chisel marks are from a condition common to old anvils and tools called "IDIOT WITHOUT A CLUE; BUT WITH A TOOL-ITIS" My anvil has some torch cuts on the edges from the same idiot condition but it still is a fine anvil that will be around long after I am gone. Hope it adds some personal value to your anvil. Mark

Rick, I would say with out a doubt it is a post 1908 HB by the shape of it, I have a 1919 150lb HB that is a dead ringer for it. From AIA, it is a 3rd style HB 2 piece anvil with a tool steel top welded to a mild steel or wrought iron base. Should be a good anvil for you. Mark

Left handed and left eye dominant.

Nice work. As you try more you figure out what works well and what doesn't. BUT have fun with it and maybe your 2 shop helpers will get the bug too. Mark

Very nice anvil and a nice price. I like the post drill as well. I can't see if the self feed arm is there but that one looks otherwise complete from the pic. I can drill a pretty decent sized hole and not worry about destroying a bit. My drill press is a wood working version so drilling big holes is a challange, A post drill is a good tool if you have the arm power to turn it, and are not in a big hurry. Works pretty well if power goes out too! Mark

If you read the size anvils most folks on here seem to be using, a few have 300+ anvils, most seem to do just fine with anything from 100 on up. This is just what I am picking up from reading peoples posts and anvil purchases they talk about. Not a hard statistic. I would think 300 would suffice for about anything you want to do unless you planning on going into industrial sized forging. I am the bigger is better fan but I wouldn't take my 30-06 squirrel hunting (even for the really big fox squirrels we have here). One of the members here was looking at a 400 pound HB anvil, I think the anvil is a nice anvil and to me the price is not unreasonable, I wouldn't pass it up, but do I need an anvil that big? Not really, but I wouldn't out grow it. Random thoughts. Mark

Works for me. My critters are not perfect representations of things, but as long as people recognize it, it's all good. I improve with each one I build, they get better looking and easier to make. Mark