onetreeforge

Its almost time for my old shop to be demolished for a few reasons and its upsetting people, I have been using it since 1998 and almost full time since 2007, new shop will be 100M on the other side of the hill overlooking the Pacific ocean and be bigger with a higher roof. I have no idea on the layout but my anvil stand and vice stand will be cemented into the floor and power hammer needs a 4 ft footing, will have fluorescent lights more power points, better bench, coal forge will have flue going through the wall and not the roof as this caused a lot of problems with water leaks in the current shop. I wont have windows as I smashed most of them my mistake. I think the coal forge could go in one of the corners and power hammer could go along one of the long walls and I would like to have my big leg vice not so hard up to the wall, I have to have it underway in a couple of weeks.

I think the crank pin for the connecting rod has had it, it’s hard steel on hard steel, the grease nipple was missing so water got in, how stupid a couple shots of grease before dumping the hammer outside and it would be as good as ever

Don’t worry I make videos for my YouTube all the time, I have a very xxxxxx internet connection and can’t use my phone data, i have a Vernier and a micromotor, I trained as a mechanic for vintage cars and motorcycles, I have pored Babbitt bearings, theses are definitely cast iron, I have one a scrape on the outside edge. No real rust putting apart from the back one witch has a mark from where the bearing shim was rusting next to it

They are cast iron bearings, I don’t have a manual, possibly this hammer was made in NZ under license by Atlas, the bearing caps have round un threaded holes, witch must of had press in cups with felt on them? They had no sign of grease , someone must have swiped them at some stage. i am making a video of the features and I will make more videos of repairing the hammer and add them to my YouTube.

I got it all stripes down and it’s outside my workshop, it has removable cast iron main bearings, the caps have holes in the tops, would they be lubed with oil from oilers? The central clutch bearing is lubed from the end of the crank shaft with grease I think

I can’t think how I could actually make a template of the bolt holes? If I was going to make U bolts

A friend of mine has epoxyed the bolts in for his massy 1KW and it has been fine for years, I was wondering about doing something like that?

Would it be ok to use those concrete bolts on a 200lb spring hammer if I pore my own foundation?

It is separate, I just bolted them together for transportation on the trailer to make it extra bottom heavy

Anvil is all really off, I bolted it on loosely for putting it on the trailer, there is nothing close to me, unfortunately, there is no 3 phase power, and some of the roads don’t even have power and they are all dirt roads round here, I have a home made phase converter witch works well, todays task is to dig the foundation and look at removing more off the hammer. I have been thinking about making my own wrecker from an old Ute but it would have a big boom and a chain block on it just for moving heavy stuff around here.

People reckon it’s well under 2000 kgs so with the anvil off I hope it would be ok on the skid steer, I will strop it on, it’s a tracked skid steer I might take the clutch and hammer off to clean them and thatbwouldnmakenit lighter

I might have to A frame it off the trailer because it belongs to a friend and he just got it and needs it, someone was saying he has a skid steer that can lift 1000 kgs on the forks

I am so rural and in the bush that a fork lift and hireing anything is almost out of the question, one guy had a go with a digger that was too light but another guy is coming soon to have a go with a bigger one, ground is very hard here it’s clay and rock. I have to get the hammer down a steep dirt road. I am going to put it in front of my small shop and extend the building over it, motor had been made to mount on top of the hammer but I will mount it next to it

Got this home yesterday but still need to get off the trailer as it’s about 2 ton and my friends digger didn’t lift it, it’s a 125lb tup, needs a little work, no idea of the year, trying to find out how deep the footing should be and any other information, it’s a little big for my small shop so I need to make an extension.

An old smith from Nottingham who I use to know who started his apprenticeship in 1937 sed every new year they would cut off a bit of 3x3” square bar witch would be heated then quenched in an beer or whiskey witch they would drink and at the end of every day for the whole year that bit of steel would be heated at the end of the day and used to heat the hand washing water before it was retired at the end of the year and put on the forge hood and wall where he sed there were hundreds of them.

I have a gas forge but I worry I might the fibres on the food from the lining. This is a BBQ I made, my dad had the plate cut 32 years ago, before the days of gas bbqs in Newzealand this is what you had, and just propped it up with some bricks, it traveld in the car wrapped in paper

I will have another go at it soon, I will forge a fork and a plate from stainless to, I made a bit of that stuff a wile ago but I couldn’t sell it,

Cooked some toast and eggs on my forge, a few old smiths told me this is what they use to do every day, cook bacon and eggs on the coal shovel and they lived well into there 90s

You should have sent me a PM I could have showed you a few shops

I built this hammer I think in 2010, everyone sed it wouldn't work or last, but I have been using it almost every day, it would be better with a solid anvil but works ok, there is no 3 phase power where my shop is and I could not find a single phase motor with enough HP and they were super expensive, in damp weather I have to put chalk dust on the belt to help it slip and in summer I have to put water on it to shrink it, I think when I replace the alloy guides I will make bronze ones.

OK everything I just wrote dissapeard, Here is my home made power hammer, I am trying to make a living being an artist blacksmith and bronze foundry, I have also made a Pneumatic planshing hammer

I am not sure if this has been posted but this guy not far from me was mixing up LPG cylinders full of oxyacetylene and selling them, he was trying to use one to heat some exhaust tube when it exploded, he was renting my friends mother in laws house, the description I got of the situation was hideous. https://www.nzherald.co.nz/nz/news/article.cfm?c_id=1&objectid=12119555

A good medieval way to get rid of a headache if you get a dead mouse and crush it with a hammer and hold it agenst your forhead it will make your headache go away.

I bent a stack of 7 leafs in one go for my hammer, I bolted them in the center and heated one half and bent them inch by inch in a half open vice and used a patton to keep them the same, then I sent them to the spring shop to make them hard, don't forget to compinsate for preload. Here is a pic of my hammer.

The steel might rust away quit fast if you live somewhere damp, I used some big cast iron pipe joining rings to make mu bronze furnace and lined it with refactory cement, been using it for 7 years now