onetreeforge

Thanks for the info, thats what I wanted to know realy, I have only tacked the anvil base to the rest of the hammer incase something better came along, my ram waighs 31 pounds and I have 4140 dies, I did come across that chart your talking about somewhere, I will put up some pictures at somestage. I was hitting the anvil with another hammer and it was pritty dead, you are right there, need to think of getting something solid

I have never used a Anyang hammer but have used Massey's and Alldays pneumatic hammers, they would allways be better than a home made spring hammer hands down. it cost about $250 USD to make my spring hammer, not including the motor.

it won't go boom anyway, an oxygen cylinder holds 20,000 KPA, The bottom has allready been cut to make it shorter, just need to weld that to the 20mm plate bolted to the floor.

I found 2 Buick v6 crankshafts, I think if I cement them in there, there was a pile of windo sash waights witch would have been perfict but he wanted money for them

Was thinking about something like that, i have tones of off cuts but there all shapes and sizes and wouldn't pace nicely

I use to dump some fresh coal onto the fire to smother it but once I did that I came back 2 days later and it was still glowing, I allays use water now

I could use sand but I need to tip the whole thing upside down to pore it in, then tip it back to weld it to the plate witch is bolted to the floor. Was thinking of concreting river rocks in there to

Hello I have nearly finished building a power hammer, my anvil base is a big G size oxygen cylinder with the bottom cut off, where the valve was there is a 75mm thick steel plate welded on and the anvil bolts to that. its very old and heavy. My question is if I fill it with concrete would it make it more efficient? or would that make things worse?

I like that, will rember that one. I put the lathe together, had to take it apart because I forgot to put the belt on, its working better than it ever did, that part must have been cracked and covered with grease so I didn't see it, I can now adjust the clamp so there is no play, it was wiping round before

Beleave it or not when your using a tig welder you can see there the main cable glow purple where it toches the bench or your body, like one of those plasma globes

I ended up v ing the crack out with the windy and cut some steps into it with the angle grinder, heathed the whole thing till the paint burnt off then brazed it, went very well, it looks better in tral life.

Thanks for the info, I am off to the welding shop now to get flux and rods, I will let you know how it goes

I have silicon bronze mig wire but would need straight argon, Would it be ok to heat it up in the gas forge and braze it?

Cool thank you. the peace is cracked right off I don't have an arc welder only gas and mig, are there any bronze rods I should get? I will brow an arc welder from someone if its going to be better?

was trying to do something stupid in my lathe and it went bang as it jamed and it cracked the head stock bearing clamp, I am not even going to bother looking for a new one is it is a 1937 lathe. Should I have a go at brazing it? or some other kind of rod I should use? was also thinking about making a metal strap to go over the top

I tried stamping them but its hard steel, need to engrave them

Cool thank you people, the old Myford lives to fight another day

they center ok, I will give it a good clean out, I mainly use the lathe for drilling holes in bars so the chips and dust, cutting oil must have built up in there. with the unmarked outside jaws how do I know where each one goes? they have no markings

Hello I am not very good at using lathes, I use to use the one at my old work alot, it had the jaws numbered to make it easy when changing from the inners to the outer jaws. anyway I got given a lathe and there are no numbers on the 3 jaw chuck, I had to remove them as they got jamed with chips and it took me like an hour to get them back in and now they feel kind of stiff. what have I done wrong? I did make a note of witch one came out first but I must have mixed them up or something, they still center ok

What would happen if the bar you were holding in there with your hand toched the side?

I wouldn't even lube my door hinges with chain bar oil

When I use to do the live days at the historical village forge I had a relay nice green heavy canvas hand bag with rope handles, it wasn't very deep but I could put hammers and tongs and carry lengths of steel between the handles, the rats destroyed it one time when I was away

Thinks for all the info guys, I should have made it more clear that its a diffrent system here, Single phase MIGs and arc welders, motors sell for alot more money, I have been offered so much big 3 phase machinery for free and had to turn it down Here is a picture of the powerlines witch finish by my shed, the top ones are high voltage, the lower ones go thrugh a transformer then into the house.

My workshop is on a 10 acre block far away from any nabours but I hate them and they hate me for other reasons

If you are talking about proper fibrous Wrought iron its worth burning the paint off, but if its plane steel I would just scrap it, power coating turns to a wite dust and falls off when it gets burnt, but would release hideous fumes and stench