coldironkilz

CleetisMorgan, do you see something amazingly similar in this picture and the one in your post of 13 January, post #3710.

Beautiful, beautiful, looks like you "TOLD" that piece to come out that way rather than "learn from it" ha, ha. Good job!

Chinobi, I couldn't agree more about the copper handling issues. The piece will be clear coated when finished. OBTW, I did want something rugged in the finished piece because it is intended for a man who enjoys a good beer. Oh and Chinobi thanks for those other tips.

Ridgewayforge, the bottle opener is forged from five inches of 3/8 sq. The butt was upset to 1/2 sq. The copper is; three strands of 14 gauge electrical wire twisted then wrapped on the opener while in a dull red heat, then I waved a torch flame over each flat melting the strands somewhat, cool and finish with wire brush. The opener feels very nice in the hand though my wife said it felt more like a man tool than a lady tool (well).

Thanks for the info newbieforge, here's more detail for other viewers. Why does metal smell? Chemists have found a surprising answer: it doesn't. After you've grasped an iron railing, a door handle or a piece of steel cutlery, your hand often gives off what seems to be a metallic odour Copper has a similar effect, accounting for the metallic smell created by handling coins made of copper alloys. The smelly reactions induced by these metals create "the sensory illusion that it is the 'metal in itself' that we smell right after touching it. Chemists have found that acids naturally present in sweat induce reactions between carbon and phosphorus impurities typically present in iron, generating smelly, volatile molecules called organophosphines. Researchers captured the vapours emitted from the skin of people who had handled iron objects, and studied their chemical composition. The gases contained several compounds called aldehydes and ketones, which often have strong and distinctive smells. The odour of preserving fluid, or formaldehyde, makes for the characteristic reek of old anatomy labs, for example, while the ketone acetone makes the distinctive solvent whiff of nail-varnish remover. These compounds are produced by rapid reactions between iron or copper and oils on our skin. Glindemann, Dietrich

Here are two examples:

I've been trying to figure out how to add copper elements to some of my work lately. In this case copper wire wrapped around the handle of a bottle opener. Is anyone else doing this?

Thanks for that tip Neil. I'll check the link.

I may try that method, Thomas. Have you used that method yourself? What types of objects did you remove rust from? Thanks Neil.

A new anvil will probably cost around five dollars a pound then add shipping. Stovestoker the edges on that Peter Wright are toast. Your going to want those edges to be clean. Five hundred dollars for that anvil is asking fare to much. Scrap, it is worth 42 dollars. As an addition to your collection, maybe a buck a pound. As with most things don't let your desire to own that anvil overwhelm you sensibility. JMO Smiley

I hope some one can tell me which would be the most effective penetrating oil to use on this vise. I just dug it out of the ground this fall and want to clean it up then mount it and put it to use.

Gotta tell ya, That's a great piece scrapartoz.

Was 2 above this morning, Washington state.

Yes, sickle guards!

Nice job Viktor. I am sure she will love it.

Reference to post 19 and 20. That's funny I've never seen that before however I am always telling people especially if children are present; everything at the back of my truck IS hot, heavy, hard, or sharp!

flat, xxxxxxx, awesome! Have you ever practiced falconry?

Your set, get going burn some iron, oh sorry, forge something beautiful.

Excellent workmanship.

Just an out of the box thought here; consider donating a piece to a benefit auction in your area especially for a library, hospital, etc.. the kind of benefit that draws the high end donors . Your work needs to be out there. Make sure you show up in a tux and sandals.

Sorry I can't help on the larger projects. On a smaller project I like Johnsons Turtle wax for waxing cars. Heat to below 400 degrees, wax liberally, return piece to warm/cooling forge and let bake through the night (as the forge cools) nice finish, no buffing required. Also on smaller projects: after wire brushing return piece to gas forge, light forge, leave piece under flame for about half a minute (do not let it color or you will have to remove slag again), then pull the piece to the front of the forge out of the direct flame and let it heat up (a couple of minutes) then remove and allow to cool, then spray with clear coat.

Nobody mentioned the cold air return which is the single aspect of greatest concern. Might it be so cold (outside)that I inadvertently create a reverse draw?

Hey everyone thank you for your responses. I am afraid I am a little embarrassed ok a lot, seems I didn't explain my plan as well as I thought I did, let me try again. The vent pipe is intended to be a cold air return which is why I thought it should exit the bedroom from floor level (the coldest level of the room). If the stove uses ambient air for combustion and it draws much of that air from the cold air return then in theory, I should be establishing a circulation of air, the cold air from the bedroom delivered to the stove in the basement via the cold air return (pipe), hot air radiating from the stove making its way to the bedroom via the stair well and floor vents then back to the stove through the vent/pipe. Also that room is insulated to an R-30 (ceiling, walls and floor including Tiyvek vapor barrier).

My house is essentially a four story house. From bottom to top; daylight basement, main floor, second floor, attic (7 1/2 ceiling). A bedroom on the second floor extends out over a deck which causes that room to be very chilly in the winter months. The wood stove is located in the daylight basement. The woodstove uses ambient air (inside) for combustion. I want to move more warm air into the chilly bedroom by way of a vent pipe (the chilly room and the stove are on opposite sides of the house). I want to install the vent pipe from the chilly room at floor level, exit the room via an outside wall, travel down the outside wall through the deck, then travel under the deck the length of the house, make a 90 degree turn, travel the length of the west wall re-enter the house in the basement at ceiling level traveling down the inside wall to approximately one foot above the floor next to the base of the wood stove. Do I have a problem? Is there an aspect of natural heat transfer that I am missing? Will the exposed pipe (outside) be too cold to allow for the air in the bedroom to effectively transfer to the basement?

Happy Fathers day to all you fathers out there.