Ice Czar

An ancient wind-powered iron smelting technology in Sri Lanka An eleventh-century Pittsburgh in Sri Lanka http://www.sinhalanet.com/data/samanalawewa%20steel.pdf (wind driven smelter diagrams) theorized as the region of the first wootz (true damascus) steel

manganese, manganese oxides, manganese dioxide Potters Manganese Toxicity (a very scary read) Lawyer: Welding Rods Lawsuits: Manganism and Parkinson's Disease 1 exposure in welding rods (employ fume extraction) 2. exposure in mystery steel alloys (more and more common with recycled steels) the same applies for chromium, cadmium, nickel ect in recycled "mild steel" vaporization is an ideal delivery system to the human body, its what makes smoking work so well however manganese in particular is a much different element than those typical to metal fume fever, its links to Parkinson's type neurological damage fairly well documented, by the time its flushed from the system the damage is done. ;)

Boeshield T-9 is basically the same stuff I think mine were, the T-9LPS3 + Japan drier was just employed on fireplace screens however (and darken rust patinas quite alot, they are lightly baked in with a weedburner to the point they just start smoking) whereas Vanex Break-Through was applied for interior and exterior rust patinas, it also darkens the rust a bit but not nearly as much as the oil based they also got applied to brassed mild steel, cold blued steel, and polished mild steel, there are some pics in my gallery of varigated rust panels with Vanex applied

its also worth studying traditional Japanese metalworking, one of the foremost English speaking practitioners is Ford Hallam (Cape Town SA)

the name of the phenomena is the Joule–Thomson effect the other obvious phenomena which wasn't addressed above is the frost point of the air in your shop (barometric pressure + specific humidity @ temperature X) PS you shouldn't pass up a good thing when you see it :p

Burning Hammer Forge (More accurately Burning Hammer Studios, Forge, Furnace & Kiln) And the name was easy after talking my way into a job as a blacksmith the first day I caught my hammer on fire An inside joke on myself. gets my vote, make sure to have a big PIC of Alvin York somewhere (and maybe another one of Gary Cooper as Alvin York)

deja vu PICs are highly encouraged, cast generally doesn't ring as far as "work" that isn't qualitative an old Edsel can work, but not the same as a Ferrari can work of course what would be the most important aspect is they they DO work ;)

addressing the last question, from the point of thermodynamics if the level of insulation between the interior and the exterior is perfect, it wouldn't matter at all how large a thermal mass is on the outside. generally the denser and thicker the material the more thermal mass it will have. What that implies is that since your insulation isn't perfect a larger mass will wick away more heat than a thinner. the 2nd law thermodynamics covers that. you would use a thicker exterior if you anticipated a thinner one eventually getting enough heat to oxidize and corrode. Ideally you wouldn't have a "burn through" your insulation and could have a thin shell for greater efficiency (not having to replenish heat to a larger thermal mass even at a greatly reduced rate). Or accept that if you do get a burn through you'd patch the thinner shell and replace the insulation. On the other hand accepting less effciency and a more robust sidewall means you can ignore a burnthrough for a longer period of time, but at that point the forge will have a large thermal inertia (take more energy to heat up or cool down) avoid crushing insulation, the actual insulator is the air in the wool, not the wool iteself. How effectively the wool traps air, how much air, and how little air moves in and out of the insulation determines its insulative value. Wool is pretty open to air moving in and out of it, whereas Insulated Firebrick (IFB) is very good at holding air inside the brick. BUT IFB is much better at conducting heat through it because its far more dense than wool a few other bits of thermodynamics to consider the Arrhenius Equation basically it say the hotter something is the faster it eventually goes to hell in a handbasket. (the more chemical activity occurs) this is ultimately why all refractory materials fail. A rule of thumb being for every 10C increase, the lifetime is cut in half. Differential Temperature: The difference between two temperatures. Conduction through a solid and convection between a solid and liquid depends on temperature differential. If a given solid has a temperature on one side of 25�C and 35�C on the other, the heat transferred will be identical if the temperatures become 45�C and 55�C. Conduction Coefficient: A measure of how efficiently a solid conducts heat. Metal has a xxxx fine ability to transfer heat, whereas IFB isnt nearly as good. Conduction: conduction is the transfer of heat through a solid material. It follows a simple equation that is worth empirically understanding. (and is why I gave you ther terms above) Q=kL(T1-T2) Q (Heat flow) = k (conduction coefficient) divided by L (the thickness of the material) times T1 minus T2 (or the temperature differential from one side of the material to the other.) Newton's Law of Cooling (interactive demo) pretty much describes the same but for convection instead of conduction. (The heat transfer to the air that escapes the insulation and the heat transferred off the exterior of the forge to the shop's air) summary: the denser the material the less of it you want to use, less mass it has the more you want to use. BUT the bigger the space your using for all these materials the more space ultimately has to be heated. And ultimately how efficient a forge is, has a fairly large amount to do with the ambient temperature in the shop itself. just like any physics its tradeoffs, like in racing, more down force the faster you can go around a corner, but the greater the drag the slower you go on a straight away. A winning race car strikes a balance.

escaping domestication is rarely so simple :p

now Im not positive this the mandatory usage but I think it goes Shop>Annex (east) > Annex East extension > Annex East extension exterior storage shed Shop>Annex (west) > Annex West extension >Annex West extension exterior storage shed Shop>Annex (north) > Annex North extension > Annex North extension exterior storage shed Shop>Annex (south) > Annex South Extension > Annex South Extension exterior storage shed Shop > Basement > Sub-basement > Dungeon > Root Cellar Shop > Upstairs shop > Mezzanine > Loft > Garret > Attic > Dirigible landing platform of course not being currently domesticated its simpler here shop kitchen, shop bedroom, shop living room ect :p

for DIY for health insurance LIE for homeowners insurance screw it and self insure by investing in a fireproof (or sacrificial) space but for business insurance, make sure you get good fire coverage guy I used to work for lost xxxx near all his equipment in a shop fire but with good coverage, put it all back together course we also spent a lot of time using partially melted equipment (folk lift, cold saw, ect) :p

SWEET! a digital probe! Im sure youll corner the market :p

its obvious isnt it? that's a bovine rectal probe tsk tsk tsk youve been accepting extra solar commissions again haven,t you? was it for the Orions or the Alpha Centauri?

my vote would be the Creusot's Anvil weighing it at 750 tons

DOH :rolleyes:

may be of some help Fundamentals of Knife Forging, Starting from Zero Metallurgy of Steel for Bladesmiths & Others who Heat Treat and Forge Steel PDF download by John D. Verhoeven PS you have a private message ;)

and Frosty receives this Sunday's Master of the Understament award as in a Category 1 Carcinogen recycle ($$) and repurchase known stock http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Beryllium_copper making it a prime candidate in a bus bar application (there are pure copper bus bars however its still a risk and you have the unknown plating)

my personal preference derives from repairing the remains of what 3 to 5 smiths stuffing large architectural stock in on around over and under each others, does to a forge but could equally apply to the odd oversight (oops too far) slip (xxxx support) accident ($#@#!$# hot) or premeditated chemical attack can do to a forge. Ive seen most refractories go tits up one way or another, wool just dont last in high traffic, IFB (Insulated Firebrick) varies from busted straight off to progressively gouged to death, average hardface over wool, death by a thousand cuts, and full blow hard kiln firebricks, and cast refractories while durable and resistant to chemicals cost alot to heat up and transfer a whole hell off alot of energy away from usable work. my suggestion can also be applied on the cheap by digging a hole, filling it with ashes or vermiculite and adding a ceramic pot or a lining of clay. Same basic thermal design, not as durable but easily replaceablerepairable same kind of thermal inertia. might be a good place to start to "sort" your design features if you do go with a high alumina phosphate plastic, figure out a way to use it all inside of 6 months, maybe a crucible furnace, some molten metal molds, more than one forge, an annealing kiln ect ;)

been designing lanternslights for 2 years now Mica, Alabaster, Cast glass, stained glass, and if I can sort the Coefficient of thermal expansion Plique

Well to start with Im no longer with Geoffrey Newton over the past month Ive been trying to get the basics of a forgefoundry and cast glassenameling studio going with the objective of doing high end lights. This was a quick proof of production process for working in the round and was improvised out of old scrolls I did when I first started. The name of my company will be Burning Hammer Studios PS its actually Iron Plus (carbon)

Galvanic corrosion . traditionally institutional building materials didn't employ galvanized steel (Churches, Hospitals, Museums, Government Buildings, Libraries, ect) Predicting the service life of galvanized steel in architecture when possible, copper is employed. In traditional decorative iron work, the silicates in wrought iron provided corrosion resistance http://www.artmetal.com/project/NOMMA/WROUGHT.HTM Iron pillar of Delhi - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia in that case its phosphates rather than silicates personal recommendation (assuming mild steel) hot patina "black rust" with Vanex Break-Through Clear Satin 50-0 (a protective oxide layer with a modern exterior latex layer, relatively easy to repair in need) or simply paint at least your not creating a toxic booby trap for the future (assuming someone even tries to fix it or re-dip it) that when it does get past the zinc barrier will go to hell in a handbasket or build it out of stainless steel (as previously mentioned) probably the most telling point here is that as a gate, penetration of the zinc is pretty much a given in short order ;)

first viable return Electric Motor Basics short term searching tips.htm: How to search the web, by fravia+ tips

Personal preference your basic Insulated Firebrick (precluding a cylinder unless you miter the bricks by hand) and Plastech 85P as a hardface (a high alumina phosphate bonded plastic, max temp 3100F, rated for direct metal contact, Thermal conductivity 2.12 W/m C, modulus of rupture after 650F 2000 lb/in2 after 2550F 2700 lb/in2, at 2550F 500 lb/in2) Runs $80 per 55lb bag get the best of both worlds, a highly insulative barrier with low thermal mass and a thin strong and chemically resistant hardface with a high thermal mass. that will withstand considerable abuse. But then my experience is architectural where the forges where beat on daily by the stock in them. It would have an acceptable thermal inertia, and excellent durability. But it wouldnt be cheap, and youd have enough hardface for a few forges Given its shelf life hard to not see some of it go to waste. Upside its resistance to flux should be good.

see I thought it was a powered beer bong (to hold a full beer can on the anvil of the power hammer for "injection" )

good advice ^ if for some strange reason you wanted to DIY calibrate really tight DIY Triple Point Calibration + - Pro/Forums of course the further your calibration point is from what your target temperature range the more error you'll have. Calibration at the zinc freezing point (787 F) would be ideal but not nearly as easy at either ice water, the triple point of water or boiling water. there is alot more info to be had with the search query "cold junction compensation"