Sakadt

I just built one of these burners myself and used a 12 inch black iron pipe nipple and cut it into three different flares. I drifted them out using a blowtorch and a drift. I talked to Dave about the difference between his suggested SS flare vs a black pipe one. He said the only real difference was SS would last abit longer. So that's why I made 3 from the 12" pipe from the start. It's a great little burner.

Hey Guys, So back in November I went down to Tuscon to visit Harold (HWHII) to get my gas forge up and running. When I started it looked like this. After spending a Saturday with him we (Mainly Harold) reworked the burner assembly. After returning home it sat, and sat, and sat. so After dreaming up a few changes, to the body and the burner I started looking for burner ideas here and came across Dave Hammers video on youtube on how to make a self aspirating burner, which you can find here. After talking with Dave on the forums, I set out this last Sunday to build the burner and finish the forge. And here are some pictures of everything as it sits now. With the exception of how the new burner sits in is now held more level but multiple set screws instead of just one for the top. Forge Burner I just wanted to share this with all you guys and here and say a special thanks to both Harold and Dave. Finally if anyone has experience tuning a Valley Forge Regulator pictures below. Please let me know. As is right now, the knob if turn complete either way does not effect my PSI out put.

HWHII that would be great, what days would work well for you? Also what you do ball park the price to be to fix it to be?

Alright so I took about the airflow pipe last night and played around with the blower as well. The burner tip on the inside is about .20 of an inch so just under a 1/4 inch, Which in my mind seems to big, what are you guys thoughts? Below is a picture. The Blower it self as not air flow control and when on is a pretty weak slow to being with. What kind of force do I need to have for airflow on a propane forge? If I have to replace my blower, could it just be a blow dryer or would I want something else? I also picked up some kaowool, ITC100and refractory brick for a base to as the bottom. Can I/Should I put a coat of the ITC100 on the brick as well as the kaowool? Best Regards, Sakadt

That should work :) thanks!

Thank again for all your help guys! I think I have a decent idea on which direction to take this in. Once I line it with another inch of Kaowool and than coat it in ITC100, what is the typical curing process?

Hey guys thanks for all your input so far! I found some kaowool from a local supplier to make it a 2 inchs all around as well some fire brick to make a base at the bottom and refractory cement to coat it all once in place. The red box indicates where I think the burner head is installed in the pipe, However how simple exact can it be while being safe for usage? Phil- I'm not sure if the blower has some sort of air flow control on the unit itself, but there is not along the air flow pipe. Also what do you mean by "A ridgidizer/stabilizer is a good idea, better if it is an IR reflector too." Sorry if that is a silly question just not sure what you mean by it. And the price of the unit was $150 which I didn't think was to bad all thing considered I think it will save me some time. Sam- The yellow circle shows the fuel feed port/ stim where the hose connected to. And it was just your basic clear hose.

I agree that it does give off a that unfinished feel to it, and there are alot of thing I want to do to it. such as the opening but nothing a angle grinder cant solve. I'm not concerned about the burner mechanism want what I can do to get it working.

Hey Everyone it has been awhile since I posted anything, mainly because I haven't been in position to do much since I moved. But regardless I stumbled on to a gas forge on the good ole craigs list, that I couldn't pass up. While there are most definitely some issue with it, I think it will save me alot of time in building my own. Plus the main body was more or less what I was looking for. However, my knowledge on gas forges is rather slim, mainly because I use a solid-state fuel that can be seen here. So I guess more or less what I was hoping for was some input on this style of build and whether or not you guys have see anything like this or and input you have. Here are some of issues with it, If you look at the air pipe, you can see that it is galvanized steel pipe, which is of coarse a big no no, however if you look the pipe nearing the main body, you can see that the galvanization has started to come off or have been taken off with something. Regardless This can be changes out relatively easily. Secondly, the blower feeds directly into the main body, and gas line was ran straight into the little stem area on the upper elbow joint of the air flow pipe. And the hose just connected right to it. making it seem as if the air and gas work as one to keep it from coming back into the line, Unless there is something that I just don't see (burner device) inside the elbow, it just doesn't seem right to me, however maybe this is a design I am unaware of? :wacko: The kaewool is abit loose and worn, making is semi floppy, I was wondering is there are any adhesives that could be used to get it more form fitting inside of the firepot/cylinder (Not sure if that is the right term for a gas forge)? Or if it needed to be replaced all together? Aside from alittle rust, and the strange design (pipes and burner or lack there of), I think this forge is decent, the cylinder is made for 1/4in steel with shelves on both side and a hatch the can be opened of closed on the back side, for the need to work longer pieces. And the cart/stand is very nice moving in and doors of the garage. With a little work I think I could be pretty nice. Any knowledge or thoughts you guys have about this forge would be great! Sorry if the pictures are to big, and thanks again for your guys time. Best Regards, Sakadt

Well here is the thing about that. It is in Las Vegas and I am in Phoenix. i've talked to the guy on the phone about it and said he cleaned it up and it runs great. I have friends in the area who would pick it up and store it for me before I head up there in a few months. So its kinda on faith, the guy is asking $180 for it.

Hey guys, Been awhile since my last post. But I wanted you thoughts on this blower, before I buy it any know anything about these? Thanks Sakadt

Here is my Forge, nothing crazy just a 401, that I mounted on the dolly and lined. Than I mounted a small shelf and tool rack on the back as well.

Thanks for info guys! Much appreciated!

Ace sells this stuff dirt cheap just use the road from me. I'm fairly certain it is for cooking but I was wondering if you guys know anything about it and if it would work for forging. Thanks. t

Just wanted to share these with you guys. First I mounted it to a cart dolly to make this thing a lot easier to move around . Secondly I cut 2 slot roughly 1.5" by 3.5' in to each side of the pan, allowing me to be able to work long pieces with ease. Third as you can see in the picture above I lined the pan with the sand and Portland mix. I still have a few thing I want to so here such as building a tool rack just below the push handle for the cart, probably will do that today. Thanks, Sakadt

Hey guys, so I'm going to line my champion 401 forge, which you can see more here, but before I do I wanted to know if anyone had cut slots into the side of there rivet forges to be able to work longer pieces? Or if this is a bad idea. Also I'm trying to decide which kind of line to use as I've heard that Trapping water under the liner can be a problem but living here in Arizona it it very hot and dry plus I just my forge weekly. But I am thinking about doing the sand/portland mix with some clay in it as well. Any feedback or insight would be great thanks. Sakadt

Hey Sam! Great looking tongs, just curious but what is the average length of them?

Thanks for all the great feed back guys!

Thomas, thanks for your reply, that makes alot of sense to work and practice on what you will be using verse something that handles differently under the hammer. No when you say free, where are you getting it lol. Because I can find cheap but not free.

I've read on here and in a few different books it is a good idea to practice on mild steel or scrap steel to get some practice in on basic shapes and rough grind, which I have been doing. But outside of that, is it really necessary to heat treat and temper it? I have no problem doing it but because you can only make mild steel so hard and the carbon within the steel is different than say that of 10xx series steel or a steel that you would use to make a finer blade, is it worthwhile? I know that the question "When am I ready to move on to a higher quality steel?" is a loaded one and I am not asking that, just more or less curious if there is any other good I can get out of practicing with lower grade steels, as far as blade making is concerned. Thanks Sakadt

Looks great Sam! Nice take on the wrap! Traditional Tsukamaki can be such a pain. All around great work!!

Matto let me know how that new pan works out I'm thinking of making a new pan out of a 55 Gallon drum and cutting it long ways this but mounting it on to my current 401 frame

SReynolds, You did a great job restoring this forge, I love what you did with the coloring and grate. I also like what you did with the heat shield for the blower. I also know what you mean about cutting slots into the sides to allow for working on large pieces of metal, but I can not bring my self to cut up and alter this forge so I'm in the process of building a 2nd forge that will allow me to work longer pieces and use this for my small projects. Sakadt PS Guys, thank you for all your feedback and knowledge.

Thanks for the feed back guys, and thanks for the welcome! I'm in Tempe Arizona right now, which is just down the road from Phoenix. Ridge you mentioned putting down in the inside before use, what method/ type you suggest. I would for a baseball field maintenance company part time and could a really good clay for cheap.

Hey Guys, I've been lurking here for awhile and finally decided to sign up after I bought a forge this weekend. While I have built a few in the past years, I couldn't pass up this offer, and wanted to share it with you guys. This is the Forge, it is a Champion Blower and Forge from Livingston PA patented in 1902. The forge and blower are both in great shape. I payed $200 for it, granted I could have built 3 more forges for the same cost, But like I said I couldn't pass up this piece of history. Please let me know what you guys think and if you have any insight of the history of this types of forges I would love to hear what you guys have to say about it. Thanks, Sakadt