Hill

Ted, your response to the posters questions is the reason this forum ****. People ask questions to get information, not a preaching. Asking a question on these forums is like being on the **** Oprah show. Why is it so hard to for people that are new to the craft, to get a legitimate response to questions that they feel are important enough to ask on here? All I've saw as far as responses is "Do a search!!"..."Look in the archives!" or whatever it may be. Have you tried narrowing down information from all those threads? When was the last time all that was organized into something useful? It just burns me up that someone who has an interest cannot get on this forum and ask a question and find an answer instead of some disclaimer-type response that has nothing to do with the topic asked about. This is what discourages, not EN-courages others to have interest in Blacksmithing. Are there those on this forum that don't want to see others get into the craft and stay with the hobby or even make a business out of it? Is it just because that a person isn't a founding member of ABANA or have pictures of hammer-ins dated from the late 1970's? Is there forum trolls that sit back and just wait for an opportunity to give the "disclaimer speech"?? Why is it so hard to just answer a simple set of questions? The poster doesn't have a legitimate question? The poster doesn't deserve answers because maybe he's new to the craft?

Heat up a block of stock that's a bit bigger than the knife, shortsword, etc and use the heat from the block to do the tempering. Make sure the block is thick and wide enough to hold the heat until you get the temper you want on the blade. Much more control that way. Lay the blade on the back-edge/spine against the heated block and let the temper run to the blade edge.

Compared to the size of those wheels, looks like that trap would be better suited for a elephant :-)

I think toward the end is the best...when they're peening the pin in the giant shackle. Have your timing down or crack your coworkers head... :-)

YouTube - Hand forging chains (1) - Blacksmithing Teamwork:)

D, where can I find the info on the Rob Gunther method?....I'm curious now:) Hill

The pic gives me an idea of the things I need to look for at Lowe's.....Thanks again for the info and suggestions :)

I'm hoping to use the band clamps and duct tape both, if I can find the high-temp tape....Did you use the aluminum duct tape for your connections? Was also wondering if, to seal the connections a little better, maybe use some high-temp silicon...The nasty, black stuff that seems to get all over everything when you use it____Not sure just how high-temp it is though. Thanks for the info and pic....it helps me to visualize things a little more, me not having a brain and all :-)

I wasn't planning on having much of a flange on it, but now that you mention it, maybe I should. I'll let it sit by its own weight...thank you for all the suggestions. Hopefully I can get the majority of the parts and work done :)

Never thought of those guys...I'll call them in the morning..thanks

I just got off the phone trying to find parts to connect my champion blower to the tee I plan on using for the forge. The tee and the parts that connect under the forge haven't been bought or even decided on as of yet. The OD diam. of the output on the blower is 2 1/2". I've called Lowe's, Home depot and another builders supply and all 3 said they have no idea as to any connection parts they would have, if they had it ____and they had no idea as to any place that might carry such a part. It's now too late to call the propane places or the well-drilling companies looking for parts, but thought in the meantime that maybe someone could suggest a way to narrow down the search for the type of pipe/connectors that I'll need. Being a 2 1/2" connection, I'm not really sure if this is something that a plumbing supply would even carry in a black-iron type pipe. Not sure if the LP business' would have that size either. Even if I could find a sleeve of some and then try to find someone to weld a reducer on for me...I'd even go with that, but just wondering if there's any dimension stock that I could use straight off the shelf.The actual hearth and forge pot will hopefully be cut and welded up tomorrow, but I'm about afraid to do anymore until the connector parts are bought and ready to put on the forge. Any suggestions on a particular type conduit/supply pipe that I might find pretty easy?....Gas, water, well-drilling, anything at this point. The closest I've found in the forum posts is the flexible aluminum dryer vent hose which is fine, but I'm just wondering if maybe someone has found a more sturdy way of putting all this together. And, on a side note, when the forge is anchored down to the plate steel hearth, would brazing the firepot to the hearth stand the heat of the forge while it's in operation or will it need to be gas/arc welded?....Don't remember the temps that the bronze rod can stand. Reason I ask is, I have an oxy/propane setup, just no welder. Thanks a bunch

Bill, The size of the chimney pipe used is directly related to the opening of the hood. The formula is basically sq. inches of opening you plan on having next to the fire, then 6% of that opening suggests what size flue pipe you need. (Sq. inches of opening X 6% = size of chimney or flue pipe. ) So, if you're wanting an opening of 12" x 16" in the hood, 192 sq. inches x the 6% gives you 11.52"....if 12" pipe is available, fine...if not, then adjust the sq. inches of your opening to get an approx. of the size pipe/flue you'll need. It's not dead on, but close enough that you go with whatever size of chimney pipe or flue that's available and the few points won't matter too much as long as you get the heighth above the roof-line. I use this formula almost on a daily basis for work and it works well, draws well. A little adjusting is sometimes required, but nothing that's not a simple task...usually adjusting the height of the chimney will fix it. This rough formula is used to optimize the draw of wood burning stoves and fireplaces so as to keep the gases from condensating back into the nasty tar that lines the inside of chimneys and ends up burning houses down. Insulating factors are considered too, but it's a subject that could be beat to death I guess. Oh, and almost forgot...The sq. inches of the opening only requires the same volume inside the chimney hood to work. Just shape it for the same volume inside and you should be ok. Smoke shelfs arent required for a design like this if you use the basis of sq. inches and volume relating to the size of the chimney/flue pipe. The more volume you add in relation to the size of the opening and flue size, only serves to slow the smoke and hot gases down. If you have the pipe/flue already, just do the inverse math and find the proper sq. inches of the opening. Pretty straightforward, but I hope I didnt gum it all up...please correct me if I have :-)

If you or any friends do any vacationing in the mts of NC and they wouldnt mind hauling a stump, it wouldnt be much to get you a good stump of whiteoak or locust if you wanted. Be more than happy to :-)

Looks like a big stump of maple, which won't last very long at all outside. Try to find a sawmill or someone who sells stove wood for a living and ask if they have a big block of either locust or white oak, preferrably locust and then heed the suggestions of these other fine folks. I use locust for anything outside that needs to last and it's never let me down. Grandaddy always said locust would last 2 years longer than stone :-) Oh, and if you do use locust and plan on nailing or lag screwing anything in to it, drill a pilot hole first. It's a dense wood. Not so much when green, but when it's seasoned, you're hard pressed to blast a nail in it with a stick of dynamite

Crispy, Mark Aspery (sp) has a really good video on youtube showing the making of an acanthus leaf....Should be able to find it if you look for mark under the search feature. Must've watched it a dozen times... Nevermind, Mark beat me to it :-)