Yetti

Outstanding find Basher

I think you are attempting to make a broach? if the drift is too coarse of angle it may be better to use a broach. it will cut as it pushed through, that way the parts of the metal that would jam the tool are removed as it passes through the piece

the part that has me curious is the fact the both anvils have similar twin cuts? they are made to do a similar job. I expect they were in competition at one time or side by side in production?

listed as hay Budden Listed as Trenton if they are different manufactures then I should be able to tell them apart right? the guy posted pics of the label on the first, but is the second really a Budden?

I have to agree, its portrayed well. How about Clint Eastwood in the mine scene from Fist Full Of Dollars. only other late model smith I can think of is Doc Brown from back to the future III. remember he became a blacksmith in the old west.

I hated to quote this post but it wouldn't let me edit? I just happened to be working on the vice in the back of this picture. I found where it says its a "Columbian" and the jaw width is 6 1/4". the front vise is supposed to be english, dunno from who yet?

Beer. always beer. that or pop. most guys are working stiffs. offer someone a beer or a pop when you get them talking. if they see your generous they would mostly reciprcate the kindness. you may make a friend and seal the deal.

http://fortwayne.craigslist.org/tls/2925975268.html I thought you wanted a fixer upper? that one you found is nice by comparison

I like the aluminum oxide 50 & 80 grits. anything fiber backed and I use a fiberglass reinforced backer. the backer makes a cheap disc last longer

you can fill tires with it. I use a ton at work for testing high pressure fuel systems.

one of the cheapest ways I found to weld alluminum is a mig. it has good turn out for heavier gauge materials and leaves a nice weld. just remember to set up a Mig you need around a 250 or greater machine and a tefflon liner and pure argon. I use 5356 .035 wire. flip the polarity(Positive ground) and off you go. always start your weld off center of a seam and walk it in( pre heats the material to be welded). try looking at an alluminum semi trailers for how they are welded. you will see the detail.

Liquid nails works well as does a good clear silcone

yeah that 50 is going to be a challenge to get fixed. who would do that?

got to looking at this and if it was an out door display piece it might be covered in creasol? stuff is nasty I used to paint it on landscaping timbers. it takes forever to dry and stinks to high heaven when heated. you might find a tub or something large to soak it in to get that crap off. you will need a few gallons of mineral spirits (enamel reducer/stoddard solvent)

By wrapping the power or ground lead around any iron post it will become an electro magnet. once you do this it will be localized to the area of the post. if the table is magnetized it should throw it out of phase with its self. secondly our old welding teacher used to make us wrap our welding tanks to change the phase of the output when we welded. it has a lot to due with the type of material you weld.

Thanks. I was wondering because if you use the 40 in the formula it came out at 203 or 213 depending. so if its as small as you say its not what I'm looking for.

There's something to be said for adding art to cars and trucks. I was trying to think what would be the coolest hand made thing you could sell to someone for a show car? I'm thinking shift levers and Hood ornaments. there is a huge resurgence in the "rat rods" of the old days. things like shoulder high shift levers with cool ends and wild looking hood emblems and such would get peoples attention. another thing would be rear license plate mounts. and old style scroll work bumpers

just a thought. if you turned the tips in on the horns and made them longer could it hold a cowboy hat? may make them more salable

http://kalamazoo.craigslist.org/tls/2913612555.html just found this one and it says 1 40 22, how does that read for weight?

I guess it doesn't hurt to be safe. I work in a big plant to and have an extensive safety back ground. that's why I questioned it. all of our shops have to have safety permits just to grind and make sparks if you are not in a designated area(welding shop). seems they prefer not to blow things up lol.

I think you maybe mistaken? I have never seen a partition on a indoor cart? only off road carts have partitions that I have seen. we have several at our shop that have none partition and OHSA has never even mentioned them?

http://www.google.com/search?q=sil+bronze+billits&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&aq=t&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&client=firefox-a#q=1/4+silicon+bronze+welding+rod&hl=en&client=firefox-a&hs=gdt&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&prmd=imvnsb&source=univ&tbm=shop&tbo=u&sa=X&psj=1&ei=B59wT8XPPMjItgetrb2oBg&ved=0CJcBEK0E&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.r_qf.,cf.osb&fp=e8048b7957024c54&biw=1920&bih=950

body and collision shops. they always have a pile of fenders and hood to get sheet steel from. some even have sheet allum.

Very cool, most you have gotten loads of good stuff. so far I have gotten both my Post vises given to me. plus the anvil (stake thing) that I have. for all the tools I have very few haven't been purchased. oh yeah, I almost forgot. I asked my Dad for some of my Grand Pa's tools. he sent me one wore out hammer with about an 8" handle. knowing my Grand pa it was his favorite. he was a roof builder for the Clipper Brick company. every month or so the roofs would burn off over the kilns and he would rebuild them. he did that for 30 years.

Glenn I'm glad I haven't gone that far yet. I was close a couple times, but not yet.