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I Forge Iron


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Everything posted by CHPerdue

  1. The last email I have for Paul is pbranch pbranch@nwcomm.net You mite try it. HH CH
  2. That is about the right price for a NOS PW of that size. If you adjust for infation and if it one the last anvils out of the PW factory.Gold was 17.00 an OZ. This morning Gold was 1700+ an oz. I'm 63 years old and have never seen the US dollar is worth less than the Canada dollar, think about what that means. HH CH
  3. Hi All I found this build a while ago. Not to bad of a hammer to get a few ideas from. I know you don't like the tire hammer but his one has a round tup like the hammer Murry is using in his vid's. You can do your own design and scale it to your needs and drive type. Check it out. http://www.katanabuilders.com/katanablog/2058-2/ HH CH
  4. They are boiled in a large tank of costic soda. It will remove paint, rust, and old grime. Then power wash and wiped down with oil or Carnuba wax like Johnson and Johnson. Just my guess. HH CH
  5. Count me in Tom, I would love to learn. HH CH
  6. Wood, Strait grain Hickory or Osage. :D CH
  7. Hi Gator The design I posted I'm sorry to say that it is not mine. It is the one in another post on this forum by Jason. I have a set of plans form the ABANA treadle hammer which I think is either by Clay or Rob Gunter, but it is a good treadle hammer design. I used it as a guide when I built mine. There seams to be a rush to an inline type treadle design which by it's nature is complicated. HH CH
  8. Hi All here is what I came up with it like the one that is also being talked about. There is a slot cut in the front and back of the spine of this hammer for the linkage to pass through. The treadle rod can be on the outside or in the center of the spine tube. Springs can be out of the way on the back. If this helps under stand this or if it clearsup anything feel free to use it. HH CH
  9. Hi When it comes to air hammers size does matter. With a 90lb head you should have a min of a 2.5" dia cylinder with 1/2" ports as well as a Norgren 500, 5way spool valve. I would even go as far to say a 3" cylinder and 1/2" ports would be much more in line, with that weight head. It will hit much harder and it will be much more snappy. Going to a 1/2" spool valve with 1/4" cyclinder ports will not help much if at all. Good luck CH
  10. Hi Here is how a strait line mech works. You can transfer the idea to a TH. It just takes a little figuring is all :D CH
  11. Hi John I saw that from Grant but every one said to air quench??? I do have a Heat treat oven with ramp/soak PID controler. It has 2 240 volt coils and is made from k2300 soft fire brick 3"x9"x4.5" with stainless skin. The air quench seems to have worked. I Tempered them 3 times at 1050 F for 1hr/inch thinkness. I file tested a corner and they seem a little soft to me. Not sure yet if they will work, figured they would be harder. I use the stainless foil and papper inside, that worked great for scale. I can anneal them, and do over if need be. Think the dies are so thick and they take for ever to to cool to 150 or so, just not sure they cool fast enough to harden all the way.I know they are softer than my PW anvil face. HH CH
  12. Hi I.R.B.I. I just got rid of my LG 50# that I had to fix becase of the same thing a long time ago. what I did was dowl the piece back on and vee'ed the break and used a a good Ni cast rod and welded it back with many, many passes with out getting the anvil over 450 F It took a long time to get it done but need can be a great incentive. I then made a 4"X 3/8" ring that fit real tight around the top of the block, and heated it to red heat in the forge on a cold morning and beat it down past the break. It looked like a crown pushed down past the ears of a person or one of those ear warmer bands people wear these days. Then I welded the hell out of it bottom and top. It lasted 15 yrs before it broke again in another spot. Which I fixed again and then this year it broke again in a lower spot. I no longer have the hammer or any pictures of the fix. but I have to say that hammer was used hard for over 19 yrs of heavey work every day. The fix held up with out a hitch. Some times I think the castings of these old hammers was a little light. They where sold to famers to sharpen plows on and had to be light to ship back then. I think some had less than the best cast iron in them as well. This as a comon thing, Sid now has a bolt on sow block and dies I think. That would be the best way to fix it. Saw the dove tail off and machine the top for a bolt on sow block and use Sid's bolt on dies. If you have the coin for it? HH CH
  13. Hi Backwoods Looking good. I will be glad to see it run. Your hammer is looking great. How thick is your dies and what are they made from? I'm using 2X2.5 H13. Been thinking about having mine done by the local heat treat shop also. HH CH
  14. Hi All. Ok, so the oil quench is a bad idea? I read some place that on pieces thicker than 1" cross section should be oil quenched to get full hardness through out. Because of the mass of the die will not reach full hardness do to the long quench time? I have the SS foil and can wrap it with some papper in side. to help with decarb. I found a spec sheet that said you can air quench up to 60mm(2.36") so that may work? I'm worried about the 1/2" plate holding heat or causeing a problem? I Did weld it at about 1000 F so I did that right. I used 7018 for first pass and 10018 for the other 2 passes. I stress releaved at 1100 F and slow ramp down in the furnce. I will temper 3 times to take care of any carbide boundaries. The spec sheet I have lists H13 as quenched RHC 49-50, from 1850 F, tempered at 950-1250 F. Frank: Thanks my old friend, You was my first teacher and I have always relied on ever thing you tought me. I still have and use the S7 chisel we made in class. Thank you Master Turley. Ciladog: Do you weld the dies on the 1st or last temper? I have already welded my first set of dies, before heat treat. I have another set that I plan to make combo dies out of. Hardening first sounds like the way to go KISS. HWooldridge: Thanks for the SS foil tip, I'll use it. McBruce: We have a Heat treat shop in Colorado Springs, I may just take the other set of dies to them if I flub the dub on this set. I think I will try the air quench and 3 tempers and see what the result is. I have a backup set if needed. I have looked at several other h13 heat treat sheets and they all have a little different process. Just KISS sounds like the best way. Thanks all CH
  15. I will be hardening my DIY air hammer dies.They are H13 2x2.5x6 I figured I'd ramp pre heat the dies to 1100 F and soak 2 hrs they take they up to 1800 and hold for an hour. Then oil quench to 700 F then air cool to 135 and temper at 900 for 2 hours. They are mounted on 1/2x6x6 plate and welded with 10018 rod. This will be my first time at doing dies or any thing near this large. Does anyone see a problem with doing this. I could flood the furnece with argon to help reduce decarb but if I don't need to do this then it would make life easier not to mention cheeper. I have about 12 gal of quench oil, I would like to do top and bottom at the same time if that is enough oil? Each die and plate is about 18 lbs. Is cracking going to be a problem? How about the welds? Do I even need to heat treat the dies being H13? They are anealed after welding. Thanks and HH CH
  16. Yeep Mike, I agree. I should have welded the block to plates also, and then finished line boring the blocks before the bushings were pressed in. I did that after I figured that out :lol: even then I still had to hone the bushings to get the blocks to slide real free. After seeing your hammer with the 3" cylinder I'm thinking that my 2.5" is a little small :o I don't have a problem with air supply and should have went with my first feeling that a 3+ inch cyclinder is more tunable. I think you can really tune the hammer better with air pressure a lot better than a 2.5". I got to hand it to you going with the 3", 2 big tumbs up. :) We'll give it a try and see what it does. This is great to get the info out there so others can build their hammers with better info. Again Great job on the hammer. HH CH
  17. Hi Mike That is a great job on the Hammer. It looks like it hits real hard. I welded my Tup head to the bottom of the bars I was worried if I used bolts they may back out, but that is just me. I started my hammer back in Feb. but after sittin around with no jobs all winter I have them coming out of the wood work so need to take care of them before I can get it finished. I like your anvil mod to get a better angle for close to die work. Did you have any problems with the bars and bushings when welding the blocks to the side plates? I had to line bore my bushings after welding because they got tight. Hey Backwoods. Are you using the check valves on the spool valve inputs? I have herd that some valves are affected by reversion pulses caused by reverse air flows when the ram reverses. I know Keen and John didn't use them but some of the builders I have talked with say they are a must for smooth operation. I also went to a 3/4" flapper valve to help with control of the exhaust air a little better. I plan to use two pilot valves so I can adjust the hammer like a treadle hammer to do single blows. Make sure the pilot valve is exhausted, you can't block the exhaust port. I know you already know this but just checking. It is great to see more of these hammers being DIY'ed. Happy St Patty's Day CH
  18. Hi All Thought I would just post a quick update. I have been working on a project to help pay a few of the bills :) The hammer is coming along good. I finshed the welding on the bottom spacer on the 2" rods today. I will try to tig weld the 3/8" plates to the 2x4x6 blocks with out warping the head to much. Welding this head is a chore for sure every time you add some thing it gets even heaver. :D Pluss welding hot preheated steel is not that fun. The 4340 bars have to be heated to 350 so you have to be careful. I have the holes drilled in the spacer to mount the head to I will drill the plates that bolt to the spacer tomorrow and weld the spacer to spine. I'll get some pix ASAP so you see how it comes together. Just wanted to let you know I have not forgotten about the build posts. If costumers don't get in the way again I should have it mostly done by mid month.(March) :lol: HH CH
  19. Hi Boilermaker Well I got a bag of ten bushings for like 89.00 and used 4 that gives me 6 spares. The bearings that I looked at that I thought would work where like 45.00 each and no spares. I know that John Emmerling has one like this with bushings and it is working great. So cost was the big factor. I will be able to pull the head and replace the bronze bushings as needed. I can always go to the bearings if needed later. Hi Mike Your approach sound interesting. It will be fun to see how it works out. Screwing everything together maybe a good way minimize having to line bore the blocks after welding. Keep us informed, I got the drifts cleared yesterday and unloaded the Base Plate which is 1 3/4" hot rolled. and anvil and the 1" spacer that will go under it. I also found a piece of 6"x5" 1045 round for the Tup base plate, I will stick with John's 3.5" so I have an extra 1.5" round plate of 1045 in case I want to raise the bottom die work height. I have spine ready to go on the base plate and I cut the diesfrom a piece of 2.5"x2" H13. I got 4 dies from a 27" long piece I found where I got the 8.5" anvil.Here is a few pixs, enjoy. Tapped the Anvil and 1.5" round today with my hammer and it rang a little I think this going to be much better hammer than my old broke down LG 50.I have a 2.5"x10" hydl cylinder, but thinking I should have went with a 3" for this hammer. I'll also be using double air pilot switchs to control the hammer rather than than a single.
  20. Hi Mudbugone: I think I will by one but don't need al the extras. I have my bottles, regs, hose and flash back arrestors so the only thing I will be buying is the welding and cutting pack with DVD since I never used one before. I pulled up You tube vids on the Henrob 2000 what I like the most is you can cut designs in 1/2" + steel plate. My plasma cutter wont do that it struggles with 3/8". Some of the things in the Videos are neat. It would be great to just pull out the torch and weld up something. My tig will do about anything but getting out the torch and lines, it is a water cooled torch, and the foot pedal is a real drag. Plus I have to move all the work to the tig area of the shop. It would be great to just move the torch over to do a quick weld or nice clean cut. I found the kit I want for about 359.00 but they want to bend my over on shipping, figures. Thanks for the input. CH
  21. Hi All I been thinking of getting the Henrob 2000 to cut plate and do some welding with. I have a Tig, Mig and a plazma cutter, but the tig and plazma cutter are old and needs some repair and and new parts. I just put a new water cooled torch on the tig, and it works great but the contactors have a lot of hours on them and and rectifiers are over 25 years old. Just was hoping for some reviews on the Henrob 2000. I hope it will take some pressure off the other tools. My cutting torch could use replaceing as well. I would like to here what you think about this tool? HH CH
  22. Hi All Just a short update. We had a Blizzard here Thursday through Saturday. we had about 10 or so inches of snow along with 35-40 mph winds and I have 4-5 ft drifts all around the shop. I have my anvil here it is a 8.5" 34" round and the steel for the dies. I can't get to the shop to unload it and do some work on the hammer or anything else. I did open the bushings up some more and will be picking up my 2"x32"x20" base as soon as the drive out to shop is clear. My 4 wheeler and the little blade just will not move a large drift very well so that will take a few days. When the temp get above freezing I maybe able to get it pushed over to get to the overhead door.. Stay tuned for more later. HH CH
  23. That is a cool hammer. Great job and innovation. I love it ! "Who needs a 3B, don't need no stinking 3B" HH CH
  24. Hi Peacock Thanks for the input. I don't have a set of plans for this hammer head design, or assembly plans so I'm kinda flying by the seat of my pants here. I have about 1-1.5 thou clearance right now. I will be Tig welding the head for the most part to keep heat in check I figured I would preheat the 4340 rod ends to about 350 F and tig the bottom plate to the bars. If I weld in small sections side to side I hope there want be a lot of distortion. Do you feel more Clearance is needed for the bushings? Right now I can put them back on the line bore and open them up more. I figured I would need to do than anyway after the side plates are welded to the 2" Blocks. I hope the things we find out on this build will help the Blacksmith/Metalsmith that wants to build one like this and do it with min of problems. I'm not saying you need a CNC machine to build a home made hammer, but when they farm out the work they get what works with out tweaking back and forth. I hope to get input from more experienced hammer builders than me. This is a first for me. I'm doing this for a hammer that will replace my busted LG 50# so I can have a hammer for a few more years before I retire for good. So for I have about 1400.00 in this hammer and I have about 99% of the parts most of what I scrounged the rest I bought on sales and supply houses. HH CH
  25. Well short update on my Kinyon/Emmerling/Randle type hammer. The blocks where all CNC machined and I pressed in the bushings and nothing fit. The blocks where to tight and would not slide with the end plate on. So it was back to the machines to line hone the blocks and the bottom end plate with the holes for the rods. If there is any concern about the ware of the bushings don't, It took amost an hour to open up the bushings .001 clearance so the blocks would slide with ease. I think when the bushings are press fit they deform and any and I mean any misalignment in the long bearing surface of the 2" block and they hang up. All the blocks and plates where squared up on the CNC and then bored but they is still a slight misalignment from top to bottom. After the welding for the side plates and blocks "I may have to do the final line hone again to make sure that any tightness don't jam the hammer head. I'm thinking two 1/2" bushings in each hole on the blocks may work better than one 2" long bushing? We'll just have to see how it goes from here. I'm worried that if the head is removed later from the hammer it will be a bear to get back in the bushing? Anyway here is the head read for the bottom plate to be welded and the side plates to the 2" blocks. HH CH
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