CHPerdue

Hi Randy Yep MB Glick is a pleasure to do business with. My big round for the anvil and the die steel to do 2 sets of dies, H13 2x2.5x27" with left over to do nice hand hammer shipped to me. for less than 1/2 what the local places want to charge me for a drop or a rem. The scrap yards around here are shipping stuff out as soon as they get it, Most of it old cars and household appliances plus they pull anything useable and charge 1-2 dollars a pound for it. So guess who got my business. They shipped it with the pronumber, the same day. Cant ask for better than that. H H CH

I got my 8.5" anvil for my kinyon air hammer from MB Glick. Do a google for mbglick.com and talk with Elam. I paid .50 a pound for mild steel and they had a 4140 7.5" round for 70 cents a pound. The shipping was also real good. I burned enough fuel running to scrap yards and countless hours waisted looking for big rounds and found nothing here in Colorado. I don't know where you live but my time and fuel is worth something. Wish I could have found this place before I spent all that time and fuel. You will pay 50 cents or more a pound at any yard or shop and then factor in the fuel and time and you are paying like twice + the scrap price. I also got my die steel H13 from them also. I call at least 10 scrap yards that said O yea we have what you need, but when I got there it was "well I think I saw a piece like that last month some where around here" but there was no steel to be found. So unless you just like looking at scrap waisting time then do what you want. Just my worthless 2 cents CH

Yea I know but you can't edit a goof on the title. I posted from the computer in my shop. It has about 3 or 4 missing keys. My bad all the way, I need to proof read before posting. Sorry John. CH

Well got the build under way on the hammer that will replace my Old Broke LG50#. I placed the orders for a parts list I got from the Kinyon New style Mark II with the John Emmerling/Kean Randle head style. John said we could use his design, which I think has changed by now. This one will do me great for what I do now so, full steam ahead. I have been Blacksmithing full time since 1991 and for about 10 years before that part time. So I'm not a cherry about this but I always look for a better way so please make comments as you wish. This friday I got some of the parts so this weekend I got most of the machine work done on the slide blocks, top and bottom pieces for the hamer part. I'm using Bronze bushing like John E. did and the rods are 4340 Ground and polished, they are a Rc26 so you can machine and drill on them. The Rods are 2" dia the blocks are 2"x4x6 with a bore to fit a 2 1/4 bronze bushing with .001 press fit. If I need to open them up a little I will use a line bore hone. The top plate is 1"x4"x6" and and has 2"x.333 cut outs to accept the slide rods. The top plate has 5/8" holes to bolt the plate to the 5/8-11 threads that where put in the ends. The Bottom plate has 2" holes all the way through and is 3/4"x4"x6" and will get plug welded so the top die block which is 6"x3.5" round 1045 steel, can be welled to the hammer head bottom plate. I will press in the bushing tomorrow and put most of it together so you can see how I plan to do this. I weighed the parts less the rod to weld it and it will be about 100# so that will be great. Thanks CH

Hi Phil Yeah it's already spoken for. A hobby smith down the road a piece wants it. With the anvil in two pieces it's kind of hard to not be honest about it. The back bearing cap has a crack in it, I saw it the last time I poured bearings, the hammer head is woren bad and I am sure it needs a toggle arm, and a new spring for sure. He wants to cut off the anvil top and replace it with a steel round piece below the brake. I priced parts for it a year or so ago and had about 1500 in parts and I only paid 800 for it when I got . It's an early one I think the Sn is like 13XX it has a tooling hole in the middle of the frame . The castings then were not the best then. A lot of the the ealy ones have broken sow blocks and anvils from what I here. I need a good working hammer that I can use when I need one. I hate fixing tools when I'm trying to get a job done. I'm going to start ordering parts Monday for the air hammer. Made up the list from the new style plans list. I talked to John E. and got most of the details I needed for the parts to do his Mod you can see it here http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D3QopHjiyfQ nice design and function. I'll be fully retired soon so all I need is to use it for a few years. Take care CH

Hi All Well the repaired sow block(repaired many times) not all by me. It broke today while I was doing a 1018/1095 folded steel billet for a guy who wants make his own Katana. It has served me well for many years now. I broke out big piece of the anvil this time. I don think I will repair it again it has just seen better days. The hammer came from the Climax Moly mine where it was used from any years and it is just past much help. I think I will build the New Style Kinyon air hammer to replace it. I know this has been talked about many times here. I have read every thread here and many on other forums about these hammers, but I plan to mod it with the John Emmerling style head so things will be interesting for a while around here. I was wounding if the Norgren(sp) valves are the way to go or if the other suppliers are good to use. I have seen people using the Reed pilot valves in some ot the builds, but you never here back how things worked out. The thread just gets dropped. One guy here built a really neat hammer, he had a lot of nice CNC finished parts he did, then just nothing. So if anyone has any input on the parts to stay away from let me know. I'll update here as I go and let you know how it is going. Take care CH

Hey Frank Check your PM.s they are full. I want to send you a PM. Your old Student CH

If you want a 200+# hammer you may want to check out the big one about half way down on this page http://chriscoleman.com/stuff/hammertime/ I know the guy that built it and it will handle anything the Say-Mak will. I have seen it running. It has the Coleman control system on it as well and it will clamp, single hit for useing die's and it's a monster at full song. Makes my 100# look like a toy. It's not a 3B Nazel but it will keep up with a freind of mine 250 Beaudry #8. Just a thought. CH Chama Forge