Iron Falcon 72

Yes, thanks. The lines are so fine my skill level and tracing paper wouldn't bring them out.

Normally, I'd agree with you but the lettering is so faint I can't even bring it out with Photoshop, flour, or oblique lighting. I probably should have mentioned all of the tricks I tried before writing. I think the fellows who guessed Vaughan are correct. My so-called C could easily be a G and that would leave only the U as completely scrubbed out. And with the name I remember having recognized the typeface and it's Vaughan's. It's about a 2.5 # crosspein for a dollar at a Trade's days. Thanks to all.

Does anyone recognize a hammer name that ends in HAN? It appears to have a VA or /A at the front and possibly a high C like in a Scottish name or that could be an S.

What is spot facing?

I got an old rawhide hammer at Trade's Days this weekend. Of course the rawhide is gone and I'd like to replace it. I've found plenty of sources for new faces even copper ones. This hammer doesn't open up. Has anyone tried to replace a face on a press-in hammer? I found this link and it looks like this might not be possible without a press and that tool that crimps the hammer back around the leather. What do y'all think? http://www.thorhammer.com/thor_hammer_refacing_hammers.pdf

Any reason I couldn't round up the end of a small sledge to make a good rounding hammer? Fred

How about a quarter a pound!

Are the dimples on the holddown decoration or do they have a purpose?

Are you able to forge weld consistently?

I had a Soldefors milled that was very pitted and swaybacked with pretty heavy chipping on the edges. It turned out very nicely and is much more useful. The key to a good job is finding a shop that really has the proper equipment and a good reputation. Mine had a lubricant-cooled mill they used on racing motor heads and blocks. The lube is necessary to keep from overheating and losing the temper. Then you have to communicate exactly what you want done. I don't think that perfectly parallel top to bottom is not necessary although I'd want the step to be as close to square as possible. Take the minimum necessary to get the kind of face you need. It's probably not necessary to get all of the pits out. They can stop milling at any point. It cost $55 USD 3 years ago to get mine done and I still have only $2 per pound in it.

What did you use to etch it?

It really was more of a theoretical question although I do have some RR rail-shaped material and a rectangular piece of junkyard metal.

No, it isn't about teaching new anvils the ropes! My question concerns how to orient a rectangular block of steel (assuming either surface is large enough to be useful) to best use the mass. All else being equal will a rectangular block respond to the hammer best if oriented vertically or horizontally? Or does it really make any difference? I ask the question because I've seen in other posts (for instance in discussions of RR rail anvils) that the hammer only "sees" the mass directly below it. In those cases the person stating that opinion was advocating mounting the rail vertically.

Take a look at Randy Mcdaniel's shop Studio & Equipment He does a lot of different work. It should give you some ideas of the distances involved.

What is 3rd party monitoring? I think I can guess but I'm not sure I'd like the answer!

So that would be where a guillotine tool would be useful if one doesn't have a third hand? It can be centered over the anvil for striking.

Brian, I think the diagonal hardy is very clever. If it's tapered correctly one could use it in a variety of hole sizes. In some other thread someone expressed some concern about splitting the hardy hole because the pressure is so concentrated. Apparently, that's not a valid concern??

The wording above the line with the "B" in it appears to be "solid wrought". If it is then the most likely the front of the face and the step were probably considered irrepairable and had to be replaced. It would certainly be a negotiating tool to get the price down. You'd have to make sure the repair is solidly attached. Also, it looks like there is a number 169 underneath the "B" line. If that's the weight then consider $50 for the vise leaving $200 for the anvil. Not terribly high but certainly negotiable. And it looks like there is a hardy cut-off in the hardy. Maybe you can get more hardy tools to go wth the anvil and vise. Are there other anvils in your area to buy?

I'm curious. If this is just a "hut" why is it so heavy? Must be a very big hut.

Here's where I am now. I got some 2x3 3/8" angle that will align with the edge of the anvil for the bottom die. Here are some photos. The angle will line up at the edge and center of the anvil. The die will be held side-to-side by a couple of pieces of 3/8". It will be held down vertically by some 1/2" scrap that will be trimmed off. The nut at the end will keep it from moving in and out. I'll put a bolt down through the nut into a hole drilled in the base plate. I considered drilling the hole through the die but I didn't have a way to be precise enough. The nut can be moved to align with the hole rather than trying to drill the hole precisely through the die.

I will never look at a scrap treadmill on a junk pile the same way again! Great idea! Thanks.

Is anyone here in the Yahoo HF 4x6 bandsaw group? I've had a request to join in for about a week and haven't heard anything yea or nay. If there is would you mind posting a message asking the group's admin to sign me up?? Or is the group kind of dead? Thanks

What do you do, push it in and out?

Can't answer the question but, your forge looks good. What's the little tin flap sticking out the side of air supply?

Plus it's been extensively ground-on and appears to have a weld repair on the face step to the table and on the side of the horn At that price it should be nearly perfect.