Iron Falcon 72

I'm about 30 miles east of you in the Sherman/Denison area.. Send me a Private message and I'll help as I can.

I'm north of Dallas. I have an extra you could borrow. Where are you? I doubt that a piece of steel set in concrete would last long.

Good thought, but if I flip over the burners the rich one stays with the orifice or something like that.........

Yes. He had no ideas. Even though the only variable left is the orifice size difference he doesn't think it could cause it. The orifices are just 1/4 pipe thread plugs with a hole drilled in it. I have some needle valves on order. If that doesn't work I'll just drill out a new orifice. Thanks for the info on the teflon tape. I'll change it out when I start putting this back together.

Thanks all. I actually bought a Competitor some time ago. I haven't yet been able to get it setup. In the meantime some of the fellows in my local group made some disparaging remarks about them. I was just wondering if I was going to regret the purchse.

Are you going to post some photos of your new machine? I hope.

Both halves look great!

Frosty, Sounds like a good explanation. Would it change anything if that lever by Nesto's shoulder had two handles on it? I think that is the broken handled part.

If you are considering the Hilman rollers after you get it out you'll find they are somewhat less expensive on eBay.

I'm curious about their reputaion. Is there anyone here who has actually used one (especially the Competitor) who will share their opinion? Thanks

Unless there's a zerk fitting the component will need oil (or if the hole was threaded indicating it had a zerk in it). Any component which is turned by the motor, (the drive train) should be oiled with a light motor oil. There should be holes anywhere a driving shaft disappears into a sleeve or bearing. Better to lightly oil often rather then heavily oil rarely. Say once for every hour of use or if it sits for a couple of weeks. It looks like it may have babbit bearings on the main drive axles at the top and bottom. Is there any play in either of those axles? Gears which are not in the actual drive train would benefit from light machine oil. It doesn't need to be dripping off just a light coating. I'll bet if you clean out the two holes in picture 0047 on the quill you'll find set screws in the bottom of the hole. If not, then they most likely lube the drill shaft. Can you show another picture of how the part you reinstalled locks it up? It seems odd that Champion would make a lock that complicated with the worm gear and bevel-cut gear. I'll bet there was a handle of some sort on the other end of the spiral gear shaft. It probably allowed the operator to make very tiny adjustments to the drill penetration.

I'd pay that for one like that. But I'm rather a spendthrift!! Don't get oil on either of the parts of the broken handle! Is that handle the one which moves the drill stem? If so it will need to be stronger than simply brazing. Get a pro to look at but I think it will need to have a pin or mechanical support of some sort.

I see why you'd need the overhang. With that many parts pointing every which way at least one of them wouldn't fit under the saddle.

Is the anvil saddle 3/8" channel or does it need to be 1/2"? It appears that you've tapered the edge of the anvil presumably to use with tighter constructions. Thanks for your excellent help as usual.

I hadn't noticed that the spring fuller isn't attached to the anvil saddle. Duh.. So, your picture actually shows two tools that don't necessarily have anything to do with each other. The spring fuller could go in the hardy by itself. The saddle looks to be 3/8" plate or channel. So it becomes a mini-anvil but has the capacity to hold various hardies.

Mark, I like that idea. I'm using heavy-walled 1" square tubing for my hardy shank. It ends up nearly crimped together on the bottom end so it would be fairly simple to drill it out and thread some allthread in or weld a bolt on the bottom. BTW, what is that tool used for? some type of fuller? Thanks

Unfortunately, the manu. name is gone. Can only just barely read "Sweden". I'm not familiar with tools to use in the die grinder. Will they be able to get square corners or will the hardy corners be more rounded?

Background info: I have a Swedish anvil that has a nominal 1" hardy. It's actually between 7/8's and an inch and not perfectly square. The anvil face is HARD. It had been abused. We tried to smooth it out by hand. No joy. We tried to mill it. No joy. I ended up taking it to a machine shop and they used a head milling machine. And they said, "That dude's hard.". I also have a JHM Competitor that has a 1 1/4" hardy. I'd like to be able to use the same hardy in each anvil. Prolbem: Is it practical expand the 1" to 1 1/4"? If yes, what would be the best way to do so? Presumably that may create an issue with weakening the tail. If I can't expand it to 1 1/4" can I at least square it up and get it to a real 1"? If yes, what would be the best way to do so?

Neat. What are you using for the burner? It looks like a mig handle.

I'm working on a guillotine tool similar to Frosty's shown in this thread:http://www.iforgeiron.com/forum/f7/smithin-magician-9914/ I'd originally planned to weld the hardy shank to the right end of the plate as shown in the photo below. I'm having second thoughts about that plan. It seems that this might let the tool move around or bounce on the anvil. The dies will be positioned over the edge of the anvil in the middle. Do y'all think my concern might be valid? How do y'all keep the tool stationary?

Did you ever find your glasses?

Here's my Swedish anvil. I don't know a particular maker. Maybe someone else does. It weighs about 117lbs.

Anyone want to go "halvies" on this? For sale -- an English village

I'd like to have his address. PM me if you'd like. Thanks.

What is the practical difference between a needle valve and a ball valve. Why use on and not the other?