Iron Falcon 72

I'd like to weld a discbrake rotor to the top of a a mild steel post to mount a machinist vise to. So far internet searches have turned up a lot of pre/post heating for cast iron welding. I don't have the facilities for that. I did a bit of it in school no problem but that was cast to itself not mild steel. Is this a bad enough idea that I should figure out how to mount it with bolts? Or would a braze hold well enough to hold the twisting and turning on the vise?

How much smaller are the dies? Can they be made bigger? How does the light weight affect them other than stability? Presumably one could cure that by bolting to the floor or using larger framing material?

Interesting experiment. Would it really work? Smelting Iron Ore in the Microwave staff warning: trying this may result in your death

Sorry about the title. I couldn't resist! I sent a PM to both of you and look forward to getting whatever info y'all have. Thanks

No, not moving. There's a 50 in the Pittsburg area and also possibly one in Florida. I'm just planning ahead.

I may "have" to move a 50# LG 1500 miles or so. I have no clue the best way to do it. I have an enclosed trailer large enough to get it in or an 18' open flat bed trailer. Lay it down or stand it up and use lots of straps? Does it need cribbing underneath? How fragile are they? Thanks for any info!

I agree with Charlotte. Looks good. Kohlswa is an excellent brand.

In my experience Sheffield indictes English-made. Can you post some pictures?

Can you post some more pics of some of the details, please? It looks like a great job.

Check Miller - Welding Equipment - MIG/TIG/Stick Welders & Plasma Cutting Tons of info.

Thanks to all for your info. Between the book and your response Fionnbharr (finn:-) I think I can make a good purchase decision.

The raw bottom dies are finished. (pic 1 & 2) They were made with 2x3x3/8 angle iron. Each has a tab welded on to register with the holddown bolts. The bottom die holder is also finished. (picture 5) Picture 3 is the bottom die holder before I welded on the cover plate. Given the two holddown bolts I probably don't need the cover plate but it may help keep scale out. Then again it may trap scale. So it may get removed. We'll see. Picture 4 shows the whole contraption on the anvil. Its centerline lines up with the anvils centerline. The support for the top die (pic 6) will be located approximately where the extra bottom die is sitting at a 45 from the bottom die holder. There will be a little over 3" horizontally before a forge piece will hit the upper support arm. The support arm will be made of 2x3x1/8 thick box tube. The upper dies will be based on 2x3/8 flat plate. I might have had this done a lttle sooner if I did more doing instead of so much thinking but the plan is to have it finished in 2 weeks.

Thank you Mr. Newman.

Let me rephrase the question. I'd like to be able to recognize and have some idea of the quality/utility/safety of the lesser-known brands like the BOSS or Common Sense (as seen in the Tailgating section) if I see one advertised for sale. It's very difficult to search for something for which one doesn't know the name. Is there one place (short of trying to sort through 379 threads) that distills the answer to the question?

I'm thinking of using it in sculptural elements. I want them to taper to a point. Some long , some short. I guess there isn't any way to do it "by hand" as in forging a rectangle.

How do you do it? I've done a search and haven't seen much about it.

What other manufactured mechanical hammers are available other than Little Giant? Are there any opinions about the "others"?

Has anyone tried using an arbor press or is that the same thing as a punch press?

I think he said it was a freebie.

I wear a bib-type that goes to my knees.

Really Lovely!

How about in a certain guillotine I know about?

Hitting anything that has a surface that you don't want to ding. For instance a fancy collar. You can whack pert'near hard as you want.

Since both faces are missing I've been thinking about getting a copper face for one side. Is there a good use for it that the rawhide can't handle? Would using the Sikaflex II FC help?

Make a wire-wrap handle for the punch-type like these: http://www.blacksmithing.org/CB-Archive/1992/1992-07-cb.pdf Check page 10 and 11.