Iron Falcon 72

Has anyone seen this video? If so, how is it? How to Setup and Use the Treadle Hammer-Centaur Forge

Does anyone have any photos of one? What is "modified"? Is it a "modified swingarm type? I see the plans are available at ABANA but they don't have any pics of what "modified" means. I have a swingarm type that I purchased used. I'm trying to see if there are any improvements I should consider.

Silly me. I saw his link, looked in his book section and didn't see it. It's under power hammers instead of books. Thanks for getting me to go back and think illogically.

I guess I replied to my first post. oops. The question about the hammer was supposed to be a seperate thread. Tommy, I bought the hammer that Ron had for sale at the conference. I was just rying to see if the modified version had any improvements to the swingarm type that mine doesn't already have.

Does anyone have any photos of one? I see the plans are available at ABANA but they don't have any pics of what "modified" means.

Does anyone know where to get this book? My search didn't find it. Thanks

These are great! How big are they? Did you make your own springs?

Here comes my ignorance showing but...I've never let that stop me.:-) What the heck is a froe?

Is this your blower? If so, there are two screws holding the top on. They are on top between the gear case and the fan case. After you remove them the top should slide back. There is a large screw inside the case that engages a slot cast into the inside of the top at the rear away from the fan. It holds the back down. If it's not loose enough to slide off after you remove the screws, I'd advise a good soak in diesel. Then carefuly using a putty knife slowly tap it into the split all the way around. You're not using the putty to get the top off merely trying to break the gunk seal. Then carefully use a flathead srewdriver to pry the top toward the rear. DO NOT TRY TO PRY UP you'll break the top. Still won't come loose? Soak some more and do it again. Still won't come loose? Most likely the diesel is not getting to the gunk buildup on the internal holddown screw. Very carefully warm the rear of the top just past the "too hot to touch stage" and then try to pry it back.

Frosty, I know you meant that very innocently (well maybe not!) but it sure came out with a bit of a lovely forged edge.

Looks like it's definitely worth the money! If you got it go for it!

Are you going to weld up the edges??

Please post some pictures of the new press. Thanks

If I get cut enough to go to the doc I get a shot if it's been 5 years or more. Not for every little cut.

Can you post a picture of it? I've never seen one with the teeth on the bottom!

Could it look like the one in the photos in this thread; http://www.iforgeiron.com/forum/f43/buffalo-forge-50-post-drill-13276/ If so I can take a few more detailed pics for you.

Do you have a photos or description of the new forge?

Good thought but if it was replaced it was quite some time ago. It was dirty to the same degree as the rest of the unit. This thing is quite small. The frame is only 10" long. The flywheel also has a part number cast into it that's similar to those on other parts of it.

I'm using a Miller 180 with 1/8" 6011 rod. About 90 amps DCEP. It made a nice looking weld but snapped off in the HAZ of the brakedisc revealing a very light grey cast iron-looking surface.

You're the second person to recommend no motor. I think I'll follow that advice. I'm curious though why the fly wheel has a goove in it's circumference.

That's an interesting thought about motorizing it. I wonder why what is normally just a flywheel has a square groove in it? I certainly agree that the bearings are a little sloppy and they're just cast iron. But they're not worn. As you'll see in the photos ther's hardly any wear on it anywhere. It looks like the only lube capability are a couple of 1/8" holes on the flywheel and the main gear axle. No bronze inserts. So a few hundred rpm would be all it could handle and not much time at that speed. I used diesel to clean it up. Do you know of a good cleaner to clean up the residue? I guess I need some type of alcohol. The chuck is the old style with a set screw. I only have one bit the fits and it's bent . So I'll probably get a Jacobs chuck with an adapter. Do you have any idea about original colors? Given that the unit has very little wear I'm suspecting it was unpainted since I haven't seen any remaining traces.

Nobody has any answers?

I recently got a lovely little #50 post drill. I'll post about the purchase in the followed me home thread. But, I have a couple of questions. It's fairly small. The quill is only about 16" long. It has a standard handcrank but also has a grooved wheel that would accept a belt from an electric motor. I understand that most motors turn at 1750 so they have to be geared down. If I want to run up to 1/2" bits in mild steel or softer what speed should the chuck turn? Does anyone know if Buffalo tools were painted? If I can I use original colors. If not it I'll pick something else. It's really ammazing how simple and effective it is. I've got it apart to clean it. I'll post some pics as I get it cleaned.

How tall is it?

It's probably ductile iron (cast w/a fancy name). I was able to get a 1/2" sq steel rod to stick. It looked like a good weld but when I gave it a jerk it just popped right off. The weld broke in the disc. Nice greyish color. I'll probably do the braze. That would be easier for me then fabricating a new mount plate. I hadn't heard of using stainless rod. I assume it's an stick process.?