SmoothBore

Well, ... the sprinklers work properly, ... that's a good thing, ... right ? :D

I noticed that too. Every project is a learning experience, and I'm sure "next time" another technique will seem more desireable. I use a lot of "square bent" "U" bolts, in situations like that one. .

As someone who has benefited greatly from education and training, ( Degrees in Electrical and Mechanical Engineering ) ... I'd like to point out that all Academic training, is merely the repetition of that which was first "learned" through EXPERIENCE and experimentation. Don't be afraid to try things, ... just PAY ATTENTION, ... and THINK about the potential consequences of your actions. .

Some years ago, I used some 1/4" P&O plate, to fabricate a set of rear fenders for a 4x4 Belarus Tractor. For reasons I no longer remember, one fender was painted one day, and the other one didn't get paint on it until several days later. During the interval between the first and second paint application, the temperature dropped about 40 degrees. The paint on the first fender cured without a hitch, and is still nice and glossy. And the one that was painted in "single digit" cold temperatures, cured Ok too, ... but has no gloss. From a functional perspective, the paint on BOTH fenders is holding up nicely. The paint that I used on the fenders, is one that I like to use on ANYTHING that's going to be outdoors. It's Valspar's "Tractor Matching" paint, that I get from the local Tractor Supply Company ( TSC ) store. ( I have a Grader Blade that I painted "John Deere" yellow, in 1988, ... it's been outside fo 23 years now, and is still rust free. ) .

Me too, ... but I'll bet old "Puddler" isn't ..... .

In my early teens I started hanging around the local Garage / Body Shop / Junk Yard. The guy who owned the place was a former "Pipeline" Welder, and NAVSHIPS certified Boilermaker. He didn't have a lot of fancy equipment, because he could weld anything that came up, with a stick welder and an O/A torch. After a while, he started letting me help out with some repair and fabrication work, ... and gave me free access to his scrap pile, torches, and welder. It was pretty much "figure it out as you go", ... but he was right there, to critique what you did, and offer any necessary instruction. That was over 40 years ago, and I'm still figuring it out as I go ..... .

I'd give it a close look. I've got several OLD "Snap-On" ratchets that are that same style. .

I've never seen this done, ... but I can't think of any reason why an old, cast iron lavatory sink, wouldn't make a very suitable fire pot. .

The advantage to having and using a variety of punches and drifts, is that the silly things get HOT. Now, to a certain point, that's a good thing, ... because a "dead cold" tool, sucks the heat out of the work. But too much heat, draws the temper out of the punch. It's more-or-less a personal preference thing, ... I don't think there's any one "right" answer. *************************************************************************************************** "To get bowls smooth, they can also be planished over stakes. " I too was thinking that it might be more practical, to make a "mushroom" hardy, rather than a "single purpose" hammer ..... .

Apropos of nothing ….. I've noticed that some folks can “visualize” things, much better than others. Often, no matter how thoroughly I describe something, there are times when the “customer” just stares blankly. But if I show them a drawing, … particularly a drawing that's correct in it's scale and proportion, … the “light bulb” pops on immediately. And in those situations, I find a drawing rendered as a “3D Solid Model”, is more quickly grasped, than an “old school” isometric, or “wire frame” drawing. When you do that, you've basically converted a "mechanical drawing" ( with all those pesky "details" ) ... into a picture. And a Picture is worth, ..... well, you know. .

My girlfriend ( the Queen of Crafts ) says, on the West Coast, "Hobby Lobby" stores are the best place to find that sort of thing. .

In this situation, it really doesn't matter who's right, and who's wrong. The chimney is already built, ... and the question is how to make it work. In-so-far as the above information applies to any future constriction, ... I think we would all "stipulate" to the notion, that a 12" flue is ideal. .

That's the beauty of AutoCAD. I often "draw" things on the screen, just to get a look at the relationships between "known" dimensions, and those that are "yet to be determined". It's a big help, to be able to "see" those things, before you "commit" to a particular design. .

I'm not the cleverist guy, when it comes to hocus-pocus with the computer. But if you enter "TJERNLUND DJ-3" into your favorite search engine, the one I've been referencing will come up, and answer all your questions. Apparently, "Tjernlund" makes MANY styles and types of draft inducers. .

A properly designed, naturally aspirating chimney, is a wonderful thing ..... But in some locations, the outside air flow, ... or lack of same, ... can be a problem to resolve. Unless you're going for your "Chimney Designer Merit Badge", I suspect that a "pragmatic" solution might serve you better, than an "elegant" one. As is currently being discussed in another thread, ... I favor the use of a small "draft inducer" fan, to provide a positive draft, under ALL conditions. .

I stand corrected, ... the Home Depot unit is not for exhaust. So, I looked in the trusty "Grainger" site, and found : In-Line Draft Inducers Increase draft for gas- and oil-fired heating equipment. Variable draft control. Aluminized steel housing and wheel. 115V, 60 Hz. Fastening band included, except bandless screw attachment on Nos. 4C730 and 4C731. Uses: For long, horizontal vent connectors, undersized chimneys, and structures with a slight negative pressure. These units are around $125, and require no other modifications to your chimney. I'm sure any HVAC supplier can fix you up with a similar unit. .

The ones that go on top of the chimney work great, ... but are a bit pricey, and an unnecessarily complicated solution, to a very simple problem. But the fan I was referencing, was your garden variety "Squirrel Cage" fan. These fans normally have a square, ( or rectangular ) flat flange on the discharge, ... that can be bolted right into the chimney, at the point where your existing stovepipe enters now. ( A simple gasket, or caulking, will seal the joint. ) The inlet for these fans is usually a round venturi, that enters the fan housing, so that the air enters the center of the squirrel cage, at 90 degrees to the discharge. You should be able to rotate your existing 45 degree elbow, that now enters the chimney, ... so that it is turned toward the stud wall, that is showing in the first photo. With it turned that way, it should plug right into the venturi of the Squirrel Cage Fan. If you google "Grainger" and then search that catalog, using the keyword "Squirrel Cage" you'll see lots of pictures of the type unit I'm describing. OR, for under $30.00 ... Home Depot has a 6" in-line "duct booster" fan, that goes right in the stovepipe, ... that will most likely be adequate. Many years ago, I used one of those little "in-line" fans, on the stack of a small, gas fired re-melt furnace, that had draft issues. It proved to be a simple, effective solution. Mod note: Make sure all parts are metal, as plastic will melt .

This "wheel" has already been invented. A small, inexpensive "Squirrel Cage" exhaust fan, mounted at the chimney opening, will resolve all your issues. It looks like you're using 6" stovepipe, ... so an 8" Squirrel Cage, that's about 3" or 4" wide, will move plenty of volume. ( I'm sure Grainger's has something that would work just fine, ... or if you're inclined to cobble up something on your own, ... the fan out of an old range hood, would get the job done. ) .

Grind it off. Acid etching has just as many negatives as grinding, ... PLUS disposal of the HAZ-MAT acid. .

That's a beautiful platen. Rollbacks are a wonderful invention. Most riggers call that type of roller, a "skate". .

Here we get into the very grey area, of definitions, ... and mine might not be the same as yours ...... If all you ever hope to do, is "ornamental" ironwork, then "sketch away", with a crayon, or a stick in the dirt, or whatever suits your "muse". When I think of a "Blacksmith", I get a mental image of a "Traditional" maker of tools, implements and hardware, ... who has the technical credentials to make whatever is required of him. He may also develop a "specialty", based on his interests, or the requirements of the locality in which he works. But in all cases, He is an accomplished "Journeyman". In my estimation, someone who deliberately limits his scope of work, and knowledge, to any "specialty", ... is an Iron-worker, ... or Artisan. That's certainly not a bad thing, ... and there's probably more money in "artsy" items, than in utilitarian ones. But regardless of the type of work you choose, ... a full grasp of fundamentals, will make everything you do, go much smoother. Information is POWER.

This is first class advice. If you want to be treated like a Professional, ... and get paid like one, ... this is essential. On the other hand, ... if this was a "gratis' job, I'd be inclined to try a leaf spring. Remember, you can grind an edge on the leaf spring, and play around with tempering techniques, before you go to the trouble of forging the finished shape. With such a simple shape, I would certainly "test fire" the blank, before finishing the tool. .

AutoCad is an ESSENTIAL TOOL for nearly everything I do, ... and you can learn the fundamentals at any Community College. ( I will often stop in the middle of making a part, in order to verify a dimension, by drawing it to scale. ) Being able to create EXACT scale drawings, ... and then easily change the scale, or "take off" dimensions and angles, is tremendously helpful. And for those who have trouble with "visualization" of finished processes and projects, ... ( You know who you are ) ... it's a great "confidence builder" to know what a finished piece will look like, before you begin. Think of it like learning a new language, ... if you take the time to learn basic drafting techniques, ... it will serve you for the rest of your life, ... and you'll be able to "communicate" on a higher level, with other members of the "tribe". . .

If it's really an issue, windshield washer fluid is probably the cheapest anti-freeze solution that you can get. Another good trick, is the system that's often used to keep Stock Tanks from freezing. By burying a coil of black plastic "well pipe" deep enough to be below the frost line, and using a very small submersible pump to circulate the water through the coil, the above ground reservoir is kept above freezing. ( Around this area, you often see miniature ( 2' diameter ) windmills sitting near Stock Tanks. Unlike "real" windmills, these little ones are not pumping the water from a well, ... they're just running a little circulating pump. ) .

My old Massey Ferguson drips an endless supply of this finish, into an old trash can lid placed on the floor, under the motor. It makes a pretty good wood stain, too. .