Justin Carnecchia

Where did you get the steel? What it was in it's previous use can give you some clues. Beyond that there are some things that are going to be universal to most of the steels you would forge a knife from. Normalize 3 times. Austentize and quench in oil. Check to see if it hardened. If it didn't increase the temp a bit and repeat. After hardening you need to temper, this is where the mystery steel will give a bit more work. I always use the same steel so I set the thermometer and toss it in. You will need to start low and work your way up. start at around 350f should be safe, if it is still too hard increase to 375f. And so on. A pretty good test is sharpen the blade, and pull it across a brass rod, around 1/4". Push down enough to flex the edge a bit. If it is too hard it will chip, too soft it will stay bent, just right and it will return undamaged. If it is a big chopper with a thick edge this doesn't work and chopping through some hard wood is a pretty good test. Honestly I would recommend checking out New Jersey Steel Baron. New steel is cheap, and you don't waste time guessing. The temps are all published and come from years of industry testing. When you figure I the cost of your time, the steel is the cheapest part. Even if you are careful you can't get the results you can from known steel, and at worst the blade cracks and ends up in your scrap pile. Personally I would start with 1084, it is easy to forge, the heat treat is simple, and it makes a great knife. Just re-read your post and saw you are using a file, likely it's W-1 (or similar), but honestly it could be something else, no way to know for sure. Try what I said above and think about buying some steel for next time. -Justin

Looking good, Congratulations on the new shop. I use a shoulder filing jig to do plunge lines, always come out clean and straight that way. Personally I do it on the grinder but you could also use files. The jig is also invaluable for getting a good fit with the guard, if you don't already I would highly recommend getting one.

Thanks everyone, this was definitely a learning process. I can see why in Japan the crafting of a sword is broken up between four different craftsmen, each with lengthy apprenticeships. Given that I'm just the smith I'm happy with how everything else came out. Thanks again, Justin

I haven't tried welding with 5160, but from what I hear it is much more difficult than simple steels. Not that it can't be done, I know people do, but atmosphere and temperature become much more important.

So here it is pretty much done. I still have to work on the fit of the saya, it is too tight right now, but other than that it's done. I'll try to get some better pics in the next few days. Thanks for looking, Justin

As thick as those layers are and on end I'm not sure you will see a lot of difference anyway. Why are you etching the end of a straight weld billet? I would draw it out, re-stack, repeat, until you are at a couple hundred layers, forge a knife, then etch. Even if they are the same steel you will get some pattern if just from the de-carb lines, like with cable. It is the rate the steel etches that brings out the pattern, so the nickel alloy etches more slowly and stands a little higher. I don't know that that would be obvious with pieces that are so thick. Was there a reason you thought they are the same from the start? usually different steels are marked differently, usually with a different color on the end of the bar. If they were not marked I would call your guy and ask. Either way I would forge out the steel, good practice if nothing else.

First I would say that regardless of were you build it you need to be wearing a good quality respirator. That said grinders make a lot of dust, personally I would go with the garage. Another option, although I don't have personal experience with them would be a vacuum system. Expensive though.

How do you like the ribbon burner? Do you have it in a horizontal or vertical forge? Borax has eaten away most of my forge and it is time to rebuild it. I have been considering switching to a vertical forge, mainly for welding. I like the horizontal for general forging and heat treating but need something that will last better with flux. I will have to go back and re-read Grant's tutorial on making ribbon burners.

Looking really nice! I see you are using L6 instead of 15n20, are you keeping the steel hot through the grinding, cutting, stacking? Or letting it cool between stacks? I am also curious about welding the 5160, I know people have done it but I've heard it can be difficult, have you had any problems? Again great looking blades, I've got to get back out and try some W's, Can't wait to see them finished.

Thank you, the layers are subtle on this blade. At this many layers they become more like the grain of the steel. Personally I was expecting the layers to come out clearly when I etched the blade but it didn't really happen. So a few hours of polishing later the layers are visible but they don't stand out. Having only seen Japanese blades in pictures it is hard to tell but I believe it can vary quite a bit blade to blade. I've seen some where the grain or "hada" is very subtle, and so refined it is almost uniform, others where it has been manipulated to produce obvious patterns. It is important to remember though that the Japanese were not folding the steel to necessarily create a pattern welded affect but rather to refine the steel. So my blade is an imitation of what they were doing but with modern steel. The customer and I decided on a layered blade to add that aesthetic to the project.

I have a hydraulic press. Yeah, I've done damascus by hand and I wouldn't do it again. Thanks John, I'm pretty anxious to see it all together myself. I've been at it a couple months and I'm ready for a new project :lol: .

Thank you, this was my first so the fit and finish isn't really up to par but it was a learning experience and I was making it for myself as an EDC. First knife I've made for myself in quite some time.

Yeah, except I cut it in 3-4 pieces each time. The 3,600 is just an estimate, when they get that thin there is no way of telling how many were lost to decarb and grinding off scale and inclusions.

Hi, this is a osoraku-zukuri tanto that I have been working on for the last couple months. Around 3,600 layers of W-2 and 1075. Lots and lots of sanding on this one, getting the ridge line right took me a couple days at 180g. Just about done (at least with the polishing), just a little more to bring out a little more contrast between the hamon and the ji. Also a little more refining of the kissaki section, it is hard to get it nice and even polishing perpendicular to the blade. Sorry for the poor pictures, I'll get some better ones when the project is finished. thanks for looking, feedback is always welcome. -Justin

This is a Tony Bose style tribal spear slip-joint folder. Blade is 1084 with Zircote handle slabs. This knife was a lot of fun, only the second folder I've done and the first slipjoint, I made it to take a break from a sanding intensive tanto I've been working on, just to keep things fun. It was refreshing to finish a knife in a weekend instead of a couple months. Thanks for looking, Justin

usaknifemaker has polyurethane wheels for about half the price of rubber wheels. Something like $110 for and 8" wheel. Thomas is right, either have it done right or replace it. Not worth ruining a blade or worse, getting hurt.

Very nice John. I especially like the hunter, what is the handle on that?

So yes you can temper it in your oven but you need to harden it first. Since you are new and did stock removal I assume you don't have a forge, that pretty much leaves an oxy/acytl torch or having it commercially heat treated. Google the heat treat specs for o-1. From Jantz it is in the annealed state, as soft as it gets. To harden it you need to heat it to just past were it isn't magnetic anymore, I'm not familiar with o-1. Then you temper it in your oven, the heat treat specs will give you a temp. If you already have a torch, go that way, if not either build a forge or have it done professionally. If you plan on forging then you might want to go ahead and build a forge, If you are going to stick with stock removal send it out and start saving for a digitally controlled furnace. These guys are right by the way, all of the information is available with just a little looking. Spend a little time researching and then if you still have questions ask. By the way Jantz offers heat treating. incorrect temps removed.

On a liner lock there is typically a detent ball. So a small ball pressed into the spring that fits into a small divot in the tang. On a lock back the pressure from the spring holds it shut. Neither of these hold the blade very tightly though, thats why you can do things like flippers. Of the two I would say that the liner lock is much easier to build, at least for a first effort. Thare are also several very good tutorials on the subject, I would read as many as you can find. Also to consider would be a slipjoint, or a friction folder.

I think 52100 is a top choice although the heat treat needs to be precise, salt pots or digital furnace. At least to get the best out of the steel. W-2 is another good choice, very fine grain, holds a fine edge well. And can be treated in a forge. Those would be my top choices but any number of steels can make a usable razor , 1084, 5160, 1095, etc. Match the steel to your skill level. If your a beginer start with 1084 its easy to work and the heat treat is as simple as it comes.

Another option that I've been having good luck with is splitting the handle slab into two and mortising out the space for the tang. Then you glue the handle back together epoxy and pin it. This method has a couple advantages, first is that you can fit the handle to where there is no play what so ever. I've actually started finishing the handle before attaching it, it fits so well. Also you can drill the hole for the pins and know exactly where they are going, with the added benefit of a whole for the excess epoxy to squeeze out. The other part I like is you can book match the scales, not necessary but it sure looks nice. I've had no problems with the glued seam, and because the handle fits so closely you have a very solid fit.

Very nice John, I really like the "w" pattern and the handle goes very well. In my opinion it can't be too thin. typically these knives are not used to chop through bone, so the thinner the knife the less resistance. Maybe I'll try to take some measurements on a couple for comparison. Again beautiful knife.

You are right, I wasn't paying attention. If it is pattern welded then it won't work. I would give Tim's blind pin idea a try. That or else you can always go with you original idea and weld them on, I don't think it will be that hard just use light blows.

When peening pins in bolsters the pin is exposed, but if the pin and bolster are of the same steel and it is done properly the pin is not visible.

Tim is right, pinning is much easier. That's why I asked why you want to weld them. Scott Roush has a definite style and for that particular knife he was striving for a specific look. That said it is much easier to pin the bolster, and once you learn the technique it has much broader applications. That said, from seeing your work I believe you will be able to do it, but it will be much easier to learn to pin them and or solder them. Plus learning how to peen pins is very useful for other apsects of knife making.