irnsrgn

might be a bit deep if you go straight in, most thread cutting on a lathe is done with the compound set at 29 degrees so you cut on one side and scrap the other, 60 degree thread is a perfect triangle, so 1inch divided by the number of threads is the amount to cut in at 29 degrees. Set the cross slide at .000, and the compound at .000. set the cutting tool so it just touches at center, crank in .015 look at the thread dial and engage on an even number, when you get to the end of the cut, crank out the cross slide to clear, disengage, return to start, set cross slide back to .000 and crank in the compound another .015, repeat till you have cranked in the compound the proper distance, then try the nut.

forges are like the height of an anvil, everybody uses something different, so therefore there is no correct Rule of Thumb, if it works for you, its right, some people use wet coal to bank a fire to keep it small and conserve fuel, others use a whole bucket or more of dry green coal and have a humongous fire to accomplish a minimum of work, everybody is different. Its good tho that different people show what they have that works for them. One can review them all and decide for themselves what will work best for their type of work.

Hello Ike2, welcome to Iforgeiron. Jr.

Here we go with the Names Game again, Around here a Wiffle Tree is a rounded single tree that was used when hooked to the Hay Rope in a barn Mow to raise a load of hay up and into the mow with a single horse. If you are going to make a single tree to hook a horse to a walking plow, there are different lengths of them for different sized plows. A 12 inch plow takes a 32 inch single tree, a 14 inch plow a 34 inch single tree and a 16 inch plow takes a 36 inch single tree, also same measurements for a double tree when using a team and two single trees. 12 inch is about all a single horse can pull depending on the ground being plowed. Draft horse drawn farming equipment and horse drawn vehicles to me a whipple/whiffle tree is the center picture here. Whipple-tree

I think I stated a light coat, but a good point to further enhance my post, Thanks. I have edited my first post.

To make lines drawn on plate or sheet steel more visible, use a can of quick dry spray paint, (I usually use white or silver) and spray a light coat on the areas you want to scribe lines or points on, the lines or X's or < >'s will show up dark on the light coating much like layout die does for machinists.

To draw an ellipse you need to know the width AB in the drawing and the length CD in the drawing, You lay these out (draw them) on a piece of posterboard or other medium. Fig 1 You can use a piece of string tied together as in Fig 2 You use a pencil inside the string with the string around the 2 points P. To find these points P, there is a very complicated algebra formula, or you can just use a compass set the distance from where AB and CD cross in the middle to either C or D, then scribe an arc on either side of line AB using A as the common point to swing the arcs. Where these 2 arcs intersect line CD are points P. Using thumb tacks sticking out from the front side at both points P and point A, tie the string so it is tight around these 3 points. Fig 2 Remove the tack at point A, and using a pencil held tight against the inside of the string, draw the ellipse keeping the string taunt (tight) all the way around.

might interest you to know, that the formula (procedure) I gave you is from the 1800's. procedures from that early a period are uncomplicated and much easier than modern ways of doing things.

115139 - 1906

And you can always set up under a sun shade.

A Router. A Froe and Club. Nail making plate. And an open Work Area.

Level. Sawmill. A few Planes. A couple of Saw Tables to work on.

A don't forget the generator to run the sawzall. Portable Drill. General purpose tool. Hand saw. dividers Hand drill. and Bits. chisels. clamps.

#196822 - 1912 #19870 - 1895 #201047 - 1913

evidently one or more posts got deleted in the update/meltdown.

On a seperate piece of paper. The first 3 drawing are on one piece, the last two are usually on the piece you are actually going to use and cut out.

125# Black Jack, made by HB for Keen Kutter, my main forging anvil. 15?# HB. My father and uncles plow anvil, its sold

I remembered to take a picture of Cookies disabled ramp today when I took the camera to the shop to take pics of my chopsaw. Cookie fell trying to get up the 3 steps into the house when I brought her home from the hospital a couple of hospitalizations ago on a friday, the ramp was mostly done the next day at dark. weather turned bad and I had to wait to add the intermediate rails. The far end of the ramp is a swinging gate so when the dog gets tangled up, I don't have to go down the ramp and around, there are 2 steps there too.

Went up to the shop and took some pics of my saw stand.

Harbor Freight Tools $12.99 and $29.99 ones would be ideal

Cookie update, 1/18/09, Cookie is a temporary resident of Careage Estates Care Center for Physical Therapy, she will have been there for a week on the 20th, she has adjusted well and is doing great with her therapy. It helps that quite a bunch of the nursing staff also work at the local hospital, and know her needs and they are friends. some of the hospital nursing staff have even been out to visit her to check on how she is doing. I have taken 2 of her home critter children out to visit her and some of the other resident enjoy their visits too, The dining room is cafe style where you order from a menu. Its a small nursing fascility and has a real home type atmosphere. I had a DSL line put in for her and she has her laptop that she keeps up with and visits with friends and family. I eat one meal a day with her, and she keeps me hopping, toting crochet and knitting supplies from home to her. I got her a present of a set of 4 different sizes of lighted Knitting needles, that are really neat. I think she is going to be able to return home much sooner than her Dr. figured. I also found a $1200 electric assist recliner at JCPenny online site that was on sale for $299, it should be here on the 20th hopefully. Jr.

Thank You HW, don't get to carried away tho, I have to sew my own buttons on now, and I'm sure don't want to start looking for bigger Caps. LOL Iffen I was talented or smart it wouldn't have taken me 15 years to find a solution. LOL

most of the time in small rural shops, the lead smith held the piece in one hand and a handled auxilary anvil tool in his hammer hand (fuller, swage, hot cut, punch etc) as he was the one in charge and new exactly what and how he wanted things done. My grandfather was a lead smith in a RR shop in the early 1800's, forge welding broken RR car axles back together using the cup and point method to make the initial weld while in the fire. He had 2 strikers (usually journeyman smiths) on each end that had to time their blows to hit exactly at the same time to initially marry the two pieces together, one left handed and one right handed striker on each end. In Thailand while forging 5 inch shafting (that's all we had) into something usable, I had 3 teams of 3 and sometimes 4 strikers working, one team held the piece on the anvil, one team was striking and one team was resting. You tire easily and quickly using an 8 or 10 pound sledge . In old pictures you may see the lead smith with a ball pein or other hammer with a 3ft or longer handle tapping the work piece to signal the strikers where he wants them to hit and how hard. Double striking is something that takes practice and teamwork to make it work.

Automotive paint shop stuff called prepsol, at Automotive parts stores may do the job. its a mild acid. or just plain room temp 7up.

If I post something close to or somewhat similar to other peoples ideas and/or posts in the forum sections of IFI. I am not trying to brag or grandstand, just attempting to show how I solved the same or similar problems over the many years (55+). I was a practicing Blacksmith, Welder and Half-Fast Machinist. Jr - irnsrgn