irnsrgn

Please Pardon my criticism, but the long center piece looks strange to me.

just set it on your stump and go to any hdwe store and get some door installation shims and shim it with those, and after its shimmed drive a nail in the shim close to the base to keep the shim for wiggling out and cut off the excess about an inch from the base.

Mounted on some kind of base, they make good Hard Luck trophies for people who have nasty problems getting to a meeting or missing one because of problems.

114 year old gal, you aging too. LOL

The below pictures are from a 1942 military technical manual I used for an article I wrote for our Prairie Blacksmith Newsletter many years ago. and this is a quick drawing I did to explain a Coal fire. The best tool to remove a clinker shortly after the air has been stopped is a clinker fork. Just slide it down the front side of the firepot and then slowly push it to the air gate and slowly lift and you may be able to bring the whole clinker up and out of the fire in one piece with disturbing your fire that much.

I know I am going to get some flak from this post, but here goes anyway. So called Clinker Breaker at the bottom of firepots. Is it really a clinker breaker? Just look at the one in your own forge, does it stick up into the firepot far enough to actually break up a clinker? Probably not. If you stop and think about it and look at some of the information from old publicatios, you will find it referred to as a tuyere, blast gate or ash gate. Due to the shape of their construction they were made to be used to control the amount of air entering the bottom of the fire, and could be manipulated to have a small center fire, a large fire with more air, or a fire off to one side. The Trinagular ones, with one of the V's corners is pointing down will give you a nice small even fire in the pot. If you rotate it to so that one of the V's is pointing to one side, you will get a little larger fire. If you rotate it so one of the V's is pointing up, you will get a really hot fire. The round ones with a slot in the center have the pivot rod offcenter. With the slot pointing up and the highest side up, you will get a nice small condensed firel. Rotate the slot to the side and you get a little larger fire, Rotate it so the highest side is down and you get lots more air around the sides and also up thru the slot for a large fire. When you rotate this so called Clinker Breaker during a heat, what are you actually doing? You are getting rid of the fine ash and small clinkers at the bottom of the firepot. You more than likely have at some time removed a Doughnut Clinker from your firepot, did you happen to notice that the center of the doughnut is open from the air blast shooting up thru it. The clinker material (impurities and residue from burnt iron) forms around the air inlet automatically being pushed to the side by the force of the air. Occassionaly if you are using exceptionally dirty coal when and the clinker has built up sufficient to overpower the air blast (2 to 5 Oz of pressure) the fire wil more or less quit and/or you idle the fire for a bit and the clinker molten ooze flows over the air hole , and upon restarting, you get no air. if you stick a straight poker down into the center and lift you get a good fire for a little bit. No matter how much or vigorously you rotate the air gate, so Called clinker breaker it doesn't do any good. forges with a plate with slots and no air gate/so called clinker breaker are high suseptible to clinker choke is what I call it when the clinker restricts the air to your fire. Side Blown or Back Blown forges do not suffer this problem as the clinker just pools or congregates at the bottom of the fire in front of the tue or Tuyere iron. I have been wanting to post this for some time now, finally got it off my chest so to speak. Now let the ranting and raving and name calling begin, but before you do just stop and reread this post and think about your own forge and forging experience. Respectfully, irnsrgn

For those wanting to make a dry tue iron using stainless steel, the 310 series if I remember correctly is what is used in the large natural gas fired forges at the hammer factory here, For those of you who use Coke and have a hard time keeping it lit when idling, I have used Coke and coal in my shop forge and I had no problem keeping the Coke burning for up to a half to 45 minutes without air, as my electric blower is on the floor under my forge pot and natural convection of air up thru the fire kept it going, if you are using a hand blower that is above the fire, just open the ash gate at the bottom for natural convection to keep your fire from going out when idling. for those with a power blower and a side blown forge using a blast gate to contol air, just drill a 1/4 or 3/8 hole in the center of the blast gate and enough air will get thru to keep coke going for quite awhile.

the horn says Peter Wright to me.

either # is 1895.

made in America, should be pounds.

11342 - 1894, they made 7000 anvils that year.

they switched to an "A" prefix in 1918, A20457 was made in 1920.

If its old Wagon tire iron its low grade and if you get it too hot the first time it explodes into fragments, after working it lightly with a hammer it refines it some and can be worked at a higher temp. Wrought works like butter, you work it at a higher heat (yellow) than mild, but if you work it past bright orange it splits bad.

Loose the little bitty wheels and get a couple of lawn mower wheels and mount on a couple of pieces of angle iron like below, with about a 1/2 inch of free space under them when setting on hard surface.

another old time method was to drill 2 slightly over size holes, one straight into the end, another at a 30 degree angle that intersects the end one at the bottom, taper the end of the small round spring and forge the end of the taper over to one side, heat the end of the spring and insert the taper with the point that is offset into the end hole and with the spring secured well in a vise drive the piece onto the spring rod till it shows out the side, then brad it down (rivet) and then caulk (swage) the edges of the hole tight to the spring rod at the end hole. It may loosen but will never come out.

Yeah, stringer bead penetration is the key, should be a nice small uniform bead on the backside too. I was amazed at the Nuclear pipe test on 6inch, 1 inch wall test I tried at a shop meeting where the owner was the tester for the local nuke plant welders. first pass with tig and filler rod in a J groove with a small chamfer on the inside, second pass tig only no filler and a perfect bead forms on the inside almost flush, then 3/32 10018 for the next 2 uphill passes and then fill the rest with 1/8 7018. I was the only one who would actually try it among the 20 or so in attendance. Instructer did one side to show me and then I did the other side. Being a personal friend aside, he encouraged me to take the actual test and apply, but I turned him down when I found out I would have to suit up in an airtight suit and then set for possibly 6 to 8 hours to wait my turn for the 30 minutes allowed in the restricted hot zone. I sweat to much, for that business.

Definitely a good example of the artistic look that our forefathers always designed into the tools and appliances (gizmos) of the past to give them strength and keep the weight down, when craftsmanship was at its peak. Its a beautiful piece of work. It would cost a fortune to design and make the molds to cast that today.

First one is either a drawbar pin or a bucket pin from a Backhoe.

Knee Mail on the way from both of us to all of them.

NEVER EVER GO TO cars.gov After you watch this you will Understand. YouTube - Glenn Beck: Government Website Takes Over Your Computer Forever This is a warning of what is happening NOW on the internet. Please do not let the discussion become political.

YouTube - 504rounds! Motorized Rubber Band GATLING GUN /OGG CRAFT

Ma said she needed some book ends. So I went to the shop and these followed me home.

Ema, Lincoln WELDER parts, not car parts. JSYWK

it do now, it didn''t before, thanks Big A

well I guess someones will eventually make them big enough to see!