monty

i have a fair bit of copper pipe and wire, as well as some bars, with cold shuts in the sides and i am planning to melt it all down, how should i go about this? i am planning to make a trough of angle iron with the ends welded up, will this work? are there fluxes needed? many thanks monty

just out of interest how long is it?

thank you for replying hopefully i will have at least mild success Monty

i have been thinking about making a ring (similar to a wedding ring)like a section of pipe that fits around the fingers, so no gap, how is this done? thank you monty

wow, they are beautiful, especially the flower!

i have finallized the design, the working end is going to be similar to mr. Brazeals, or mr. Asperys wizard bottle opener, but instead of a wizard there will be a pinapple twist then a thinned section for letters. ill time it and go by that pricing. thanks you all very much for your input, it has been extremely helpful monty

i do make my own tools, but my theory was that because these are fairly big, and of good quality steel, that these will be a good buy, and i used some of alec.s ' tongs (OC) and i was very impressed by the quality. but thank you for your input none the less, every bit of info is helpful

ok, they are a stem with some sort of bean end, similar to a hinge end with N.V.B. chiseled into the end, fairly simple, i dont have any pics as the design isnt finallized, but the only modification i am thinking about is a twist in the stem, does £5 sound fair, or over priced? thank you for your time and help monty

i have been asked to make half a dozen or so bottle openers how much is a reasonable price to ask for them? many thanks monty

i have ordered a pair along with 2 tong rings and 4 other pairs of different tongs, they just have the atlantic and the west of england to cross now :P

your "10lb" sledge is technically just over 9lb. my tongs are now in miami, just the atlantic to go...... monty

so.. flat face angled towards me? thank you very much for being so patient monty

sorry i can now see all the pics, brian, i dont quite understand about the dies, are you saying to effectively turn the near side of the hammer into a fullering die, or is that completely wrong? many thanks monty p.s. i was also under the impression all your punches had some sort of flat pyramid/geometry, but from the pics it looks as if there are some with completely flat ends, sorry if i am totally missing the point of all you say/show thank you very much for posting

brian, what is the tool with the spread base? thanks monty

the hammer eye is 1" long, sorry for the bad picture

from the point it starts to curve at 21"

pics 7-15 two hammers i made with alec s 2.5lb and 3.5lb https://picasaweb.google.com/113145630753657202976/DropBox?authkey=Gv1sRgCPb1npmvud6cggE#

i like the antler too, the shape of the small one is very nice as well..

possibly radius part of the edge as well as you would for a normal anvil

turn it on its end, sink it in a stump, get riid of the paint from one end, and hammer on it, the rebound will be greater on end as there is more mass behind it, and if you have a big enough stump, also attach your vaughns anvil, for the use of the horn, i know it wont have the same face size, but the vikings got by with anvils no larger than 6"x6"

here are some pics of the bar and the hole size intended, the hammer is the larger of the two i made with alec.

i cant see the original picture of the set, only cut up spring, am i missing something, or are they not there? thanks

i have a bent spike from the front of a jcb loadall, from the bend to tip it is probably 2 ft, it has roughly the same taper(square taper) how much should i cut off for a drift like that?

im looking for personal opinions, not information about them

i am looking into buying some tongs from blacksmiths depot, and came across their universal v bit tongs, does anyone have any veiws( for or against) on these tongs? thanks