matto

sorry the pics load huge. the pics of the post drill are after i got it mounted. i think it is alittle high, it sucks mounting a 350lb 6 foot drill by yourself. guess i will make a step box to slide out from under it when using it.

there is one other difference from the tiger, i cleaned and repainted it. it was the closes to the bench when i had time to start cleaning one up.

here are two blowers i picked up at an auction a month a go. the first is a tiger it is not cleaned up yet but works great. i know it is canedy otto's economy line now the next one i don't know who the maker is and would like help finding out, the blower is just like the tiger except where it mounts is slightly different. and the stand is more like a champion lancaster mount. my lancaster has the same style but is a four sided mounting arm not a stand. could it be a champion blower?

here are the pics from my barn find in buffalo county nebraska, everything is wire brushed and all lettering marked with yellow paint so it will stand out better. here is a pic of the barn it was a 20x30 foot shop omaha iron store pedistal grinder there are 5 grinding wheels also edwards shear # 10 b the handle is 5 or 6 foot long step rivit punch weaver jack the t handle steers the front wheels last up a canedy otto new 16 post drill in my last post on this find i listed it as a new 10 went at it with a wire brush and it is a new 16 all the bits in the picture where hanging behind the drill just missing 14. now does anyone know anything about or know where i can look for info on the riviter, the pedistal grinder or the shear, there was also 40ft of line shaft still on the ceiling with extra maple pulleys and leather belts.

you can use a 80 or 120 grit flapper disk to. then prime it will help the paint stick to the new metal better

looks good the leather strap is what my great great great grandfather used on his cotton wood stump. the next one you build you might try using a back strap and a smaller front strap instead of cutting all the little loops you keep the front strap solid and make the loops.

they are from iowa

thanks for the thoughts, i have a large screw house jack that i can set it on. to help move it up and down. i might try to rig a chain fall above where it will be mounted. i'm 140 lb, it is around 275 lb need all the help i can get to put it in place.

what hight should i have my canedy otto #10 post drill off the ground? ground to bottom bracket? as soon as i get my pics i will post.

you can lay a small layer of concrete as a base for the wood block floor then use a light sand layer on top of the concrete for packing and keeping the blocks level

My shop floor is concrete if I want a softer floor spot I lay down plywood. The museum floor that I am building is stamped concrete. There is a thread here that has pics of the floor and as we are standing walls today I will have new pics to post. The stamping will be a pretty Pennie or two. We got a great deal for the museum but for the size of your shop if you stain and stamp it it will probably cost About fifteen to twenty thousand depending on what stamp and if you stain it. As for the wood floors I to really like the butcher block floors that is the style of floor Phil was talking about. Most of the ones I have seen are four by four or six by six cut into six inch blocks then layed end grain up makes a great floor easy to maintain but would not work well where I live do to moisture and termites. Concrete whether poured and finished smooth or stamped is a one time deal. Most care is sweeping wonce in a while. I would go that route you can always make a soft spot to stand.

hey all this morning i got a call from a retired farmer. i have been talking withhis wife off and on for a month now. i had heared that they had an old machine shop and was thinking that they might have something for me to put back into use. well they called this morning and said to come out and get the line shaft that was still in the rafters. i was looking for a line shaft for the museum shop i am building. so we got there and they said look around there might be something else you need or want. well there was, i came home with an edwards shear #10b, a pedistal grinder, 30' of line shaft with 6 good wood pullies, a weaver 4' long jack that you can steer by turning the t handle, a step riveter, and a canedy otto new #10 post drill with around a 150 bits. i asked the farmer when this shop was built he said about 1890 to 1895, the shop had a forge, tongs, post vise and anvil in it but he said it has come up missing. the original owners used the shop for their farm and to help some of the neighbors. they had a steam tractor and thresher. as i kept talking with the farmer he would not tell me who the original owners where. come to find out it was the farm sted of my wifes family. they all had thought that the owners now had dozed everything down for the center pivit to run around. great find kind of crazy how the history of the shop worked out. one other crazy thing was everything still works and nothing is frozen from rust and age, the farmer said no one has used any of the stuff for at least 30 years or more. and not one bolt broke taking it all out. all nuts where tight but came right off, did not have to spray one nut. will have pics need to get them off my camera, bad thing is i should of taken pics when we got there.

Bastard is a type of file, if a file company can stamp it on a tool for all the world to see and it is the technical name of the file there should be no problem about using the proper name of a tool. it is kind of like crap it is a technical term defind by webster so can be used as a term for wast product.

Thanks again Brian and trip

Canedy is the cream of the crop "high end" the champion is the ford / chevy. What size of forge are you using the bigger canedy might be alittle much for a smaller forge but might be worth it if you move into a bigger forge later. If you don t know get both. Or get what the budget will get.

Thanks all

you need more bend in your spring or a new spring. bend the spring till it keeps tension on the front jaw leg.

like it alot, low maintance and always in bloom. you must have a rusty thumb

does anyone know what the original color was/is for canedy otto, buffalo, and champion forge and blowers? i am restoring some old forges for a museum blacksmith shop and would like to paint two of the forges as close to the original color as i can?

if you are a sole proprietor you should be able to use your social security number as your tax id. the good part about a tax # is it keeps personal and business separate. as steve said if you make more than $500 you should pay taxes. remember that is after all business exspences are paid, (materials, tools bought, employee pay, utilities, fuel, rent, office supplies, ect...)

if you want living i would go with mark aspery, if we could bring someone back i would want to learn from fransic whitaker

Sorry they are a bit fuzzy

here is a pic of the shop monster that lives in my shop will try to get better pics of him if he comes back out. he is camera shy and very fast.

here are pics of my scrap yard find put to use, the stand and anvil together are 357.5 pounds. the stand by its self is 150 + pounds the anvil block is 200 pounds.and 10" x10 the set up sets 27" tall. can't find anyone to chuck it up in a lath to put a 1" hole in it so i am thinking about making a hardy plate to put next to it.

is your forge mounted on a 3 wheeler or a lawn mower? puts new meaning to portible forge lol..