matto

i hear ya, the ting about spikes is they are not that crappy, you just have to sharpen them more. and they are not as consistent in carbon content as most blade steels but still get the job done. if a blacksmith of old needed to get a blade of some sort made i'm sure he would us one, yes there might be better material but you use what you have. oh i think your stuff looks great.

Found a hay budden farriers 141# will get serial number and pics today.

best way to clean it out is a grinder. you can use a cut off wheel to clean it out. it will give you a smaller hole to fill than using a grinding disc. then pre heat and weld try to let it cool as slow a you can. or you could braize it back together.

sakadt so far i really like the pan i made. still is a nice portable size with enough room for some bigger prodjects. i am finishing up the clinker breaker and tring to deside on a hood or just a heat shield today will post pics when done.

most all power plants in the u.s.a. use liganite (boiler coal) which has high sulfur, ash, and moisture another name is brown coal. as thomas stated a lot of plants are trying to go to a low sulfer sub-bituminous or bituminous coal which is a lot cleaner. most all blacksmiths coal is a bituminous coal with very low sulfur, ash and moisture. best thing you can do is ask the plant coal buyer where it is from and if they have an analysis of it. or just try some. worst case it will be very dirty, smoke, sparky, stinky coal. matt o

looks like mine also, my original pan has No 402 stamped in a plate rivited to the front of the pan. have that pan on the wall and a new 18x22 pan welded up and ready to mount.

jimsship the pan i want to rebuild is a champion with a champion 400 on it looks like the one that was posted a few days ago. as for the heat/wind shield i will play around. i have just seen some in old ads for pump handle forges and other cast base style forges.

what is the hight for a wind/heat shield on a riviters forge? for a portable demo forge would just a heat/wind shield be ok or would it be better to make a hood for it? is it ok to make a different forge pan than what the original pan was?

i think it looks great! its nice that they are always there to help out. my wife helps me out, most of the time so she can get what she wants. you should be proud of your sculpture, it has a very nature and organic look.

I hear you Ted t, again thank you for all of your service and sacrifice of serving.

thank you to all who have given their time and faught or/and severed this country of ours. you never hear it enough. again, thank you!! matt o

the hopes are to have it running off the line shaft at the museum as it sounds we may buy one new wheel. what do you us to relaminate the buffing wheels?

thomas how do i know if the new old wheels are ok. i found them in a work bench. as for the edwards i am thinking along the same lines for mounting it. someone told me the saw one that was ran with a hydro cylinderand a foot plate. would beat standing behind it with that 6' handle.

we'll just say you almost could of bought both blowers. your stake plate was not that far off in price.

sounds like you could give john henry a run for his money.lol... :P

here is my latest anvil and stand the anvil is a 10" by 10" 200lb chunk of i don't know what. it has a 3" long x 7" round base that fits into the hole i cut in the top plate of the stand. the stand is a piece of i don't know what, but is 7" tall by 16" round by 2.5" thick the top plate is 5/8 inch thick, the legs are 2.5" heavy wall tube just need feet on them. the stand is weighing in at 165lb alone. the anvil is set at 26" off the ground. will make a great striking anvil. i just need to find something for a 1" hardy hole. the machine shop here wants $200 to put a 1" hole down the center(round) $350 to put a 1" square hole down the center.

nghtmrknife how was pounding the rail spikes in

Might be markings on the front leg below the jaw. Sometimes a date and or weight stamp. Could be something under the mounting bracket on the rear leg.

your on the right track. if they don't move or move hard it is time to take them apart. i got tw blowers at an auction both worked well but still tok them apart and heavy cleand them. never hurts. the old grease in the lancaster can be what is making it turn hard. grease is a dust magnet. the buffalo only one way to find out. it could be mud dobbers, mice, old grease, no old grease or oil, who knows (you will soon.) you can try a can of coke to help free up rusted parts. works but not always. have fun and post pics and let us know what you find.

the mount is like a columbian but could be a remake. does it have a coil spring around the screw box? wouls be a good way to have a spring.

quick, plasma cutter or torch, long hammer and chisel.

dablcksmith thanks for the info the i think the riviter was for leather also, the original owners built the shop around 1890 give or take, the home stedders son had a big steam tractor and did custom thrashing. they worked on their own equipment and the neighbors. all i know on the grinder is what is on it. on the base the side opposite the omaha iron store co is cast omaha nebr. with the edwards do you mount it on the floor or can you make a stand to mount it onto?

try a piece of 1" square tubing first if you have a thicker wall tubing your hardy will fit in it then the hardy with the tubing on it will fit your 1" hardy hole. saving you from tacking a piece or two on your hardy and saving your anvil wear from the weld.

looks good. even with a lot of mile if you keep them oiled the gears will last with little wear. just proves alittle regular maintance goes along way.

i would tell you all what i bought them for but i don't know if any of you might have a heart condition