matto

but don't you think out of 30 plus years of researching anvils that he might have a pretty good clue. why not also bring up the fact that he states to his knowledge hay-budden is the only anvil maker to rim the bottom of the base for more stability. as for the stamping after years of hard work do the deer motors you like still have all the paint on them? how about the doge trucks you think they last in gtreat shape after hard use and still have all the id marks on them, give the man some respect he has put in the time! maybe hay-budden was the only anvil maker smart enough to put a mark in a spot that does not get hard use as an id for quality for all the anvils they made so whether you are using a hay-budden or an omaha or a black jack, or a us or a american an acme or a john henry or any of the other 300000 anvils that hay-budden made you know you have a mighty fine anvil that will stand the test of time whether the trade mark stamped in the side does or not. on a side note how can you take the work of your "local anvil delear" who is he getting his info from how many books has he written on the subject of anvils and anvil making, so you believe him that older anvils are better than new anvils; have you asked some of the anvil makers today like say Nimba, Emmerson, Cliff Carroll, TFS, JHM, NC, Ridgid-Peddinghaus, Delta ( just to name some off the top of my head) if they think older is better than new? the only thing i think your local dealer was doing was his job of selling old anvils. bottom line give postman some respect he has put in his time and is humble enough to state that to my knowledge this is what i have uncovered about anvils in america matto

in anvils in america pg. 289 keen cutter and blackjack where made for the simmons hardware company of St. Louis Missouri, s/n around 48023 (ca. 1900) s/n 210796 (ca. 1914). Mr Postman has seen, dated and cataloged more anvils than anyone i know of in the U.S. i believe him if he states to his knowlage that hay-budden was the only U.S. anvil company to stamp under the horn usually above the tong hole, then it is more than likely true. although he does say he has only scratched the surface of anvils in america.

For the money you are budgeting you could buy a brand new miller thunderbolt ac/dc welder. I have used one for 15 years in the shop. I also use it to tig weld. My first one was a miller thunderbolt that was my grandpas. He bought it in the 50's or 60's. The other nice thing is they are smaller so you can roll them around the shop or they will not take up so much room on or under the bench.

the a with a horseshoe is a tool brand. the brand name is not coming to me but i can find it for you. the cut devil i think is just a tool name like a hot cut or a cold cut.

judson, i did not sellyou the hammer but can say you are wecome from kearney. phil i don't know much about sailing, but am thinking handles also do you know about what size i should save i will draw knife them down so i will save some about 1 1/2" to 2". wd&mlteach i would love to turn some bowls but have not done any of that sence high school. have helped make a lath that runs off a tractor pto. would be fun to try a bowl out of the big stump if the tractor could hold it. i will take part of one trunk and cut down a stump or two. did not think about making it anvil hight or maybe a little higher. thanks all

i 'm taking down two big honey locust trees and wanted to know what else i can use the wood for besides an anvil stump and fire wood. maybe dishing blocks handles a long bow, i'm up for any thoughts. one tree is three foot diameter the other is 58" in diameter.

just a side note, as i was tought the grading of coal is as follows ; you start with the lowest grade which is lignite,(brown coal or boiler coal) very high ash and moisture content, dirty coal and is manily what is shipped all across the U.S. going to power plants. next is sub-bituminous which appears dull black has a higher carbon content than lignite and lower than bituminous. less moisture and ash than lignite, then you get to "blacksmiths coal" bituminous, (hard coal) has low ash, sulfer and moisture content has great coking ability. anthracite contains the lowest moisture and ash content and the highest carbon content of all coal types. it is as close to pure coke as you can get in a coal. using anthracite you have to wet and pack it to get it to "stick". Bealer talkes about it in the art of blacksmithing. andrews in new edge of the anvil list the types of coal, Sims in the backyard blacksmith also has this list. Dr. Leroy Jacobs, of the wyoming analytical laboratories, who i smithed a lot with and has developed some of the grading systems for coal lists the same way. he also agrees that bituminous is the most used as blacksmithing coal. i also agree 100% that bituminous is one of the best coals to use for its availibility and versitility, it is tried and true, as blacksmiths coal in all books i have read and by all smith i have talked to. i think anthracite gets a bad rap because smiths don't burn it right and it is harder to find and use. it also cost more. this is just some of what i have learned over time in blacksmithing about coal, but if any of it is wrong please let me know i don't want to be telling and teaching wrong information.

you are right , what i was taught was to use it like coke. the man that told me about coal and its uses has a double phd in chemistry and started the wyoming anylitical labratories. he developed some of the grading systems for anylizing coal content all over the world. anthracite has the highest carbon content and the lowest ash and moisture content of all coals. it is basically all carbon. so to use it you have to burn it like you would pure coke.

People need to understand as coal goes anthracite is as closes to coke as you can get in a coal. it is the best coal to forge with because it takes little time to get to coke. as for your coke cave, do you wet your coal? if not that will help it to stick together as you steam the coal to coke.

can you burn your steel in it? if you can burn your steel you are past welding heat. if it clinkers up fast, and with the size of clinker you are talking about you are burning up a lot of iron, have dirty coal (lot of ash and moisture) or are not getting a good coking before you weld. are you coking up your coal into a coke cave? it works better with some coals and forges.

Looks good, it is amazing what people pay for stuff. Your brother will get a lot of years out of that table. Again looks great.

just because you can make a shoe does not meean you should put the shoe on!!! i can make a shoe just fine but you would have to put the horse down after i got it shoed if i could get more than one shoe on. there is alot more to the art of being a farrier.

That might get even more expensive, do to the fact most dirt and mud is made up of broken down rocks.

Have a stereo listen to about everything but rap. A lot of country and classic rock mixed with jazz and the blues sometimes classical. And I wear ear plugs.

Ginger ale is great in the heat to. That is what my great,great grandpa would have on the thrashing crew.

The little one uses a compression sleve to mount it to the tuyer of the riviters forge. One end of the air pipe is one part of the clamp that is what the little ring is a round the outlet hole it fits into an indent in the clamp part of the tuyer pipe.

Try as many hammers as you can, but remember that with a hammer we are not just talking about the steel head, you have a handle also. Most ergonomic hammer I have seen have shorter handles then I like. So I rehandled mine and then rasped down the Handle to the shape I like, or works best for my hand. So try as many hammer with different handle stiles as you can try not to forge with ten hammers in one forging session, try to just use one or two. That way you get the full feel of a hammer from fresh to fatigue.

If you run water over your forearms you will cool your body faster. The blood flow through your arms has less travel to cool you down. As for your water intake you should drink room temp or just tap. The reason is the colder the water the harder your body has to work to warm it up to body temp to absorb it. And one last bit of info, don't go in and out of the ac. Stay out and find shade and a breeze to cool down before you head in to the ac. Going straight into ac puts a lot more stress on the body.

Spray poli line tHem up spray and flip and spray done, you can have a flat, satin, semi gloss or gloss

i have a canedy otto new 16 drill press and was wondering what size of electric motor i can use to run it. would you use step pulleys on it or just run it one speed? a friend put a 4 speed trany from a model a on his when he had his shop.

the problem with most concrete shop floors is not the concrete floor it is what pat roy has brought up it is the shoes or boots on the feet that cause most problems. "if the foundation sucks the building sucks" shoes/boots are your bodies foundation and shock absorbers. my family started a blacksmith/machine shop in 1903 and always had concrete floors. the floors did get covered with grease oil scale and everything else. but they always had good boots.

most of the best smiths in the world have not used an anvil bigger than a 150 lb. some because they coulden't get anything bigger or could not move anyhing bigger. the average rule of thumb for proper anvil size is 2% of hammer size or hammer size is 2% of anvil size. reason is because when you use to big of a hammer on to small of an anvil that is what dishes the face plate over time. if you are within 2% you will not dish out the face.

just looked up my haybudden i aim and it is a 1896 farriers clip horn 141lbs.

if you are going to build it why not over build it. and i love my little giant. i think the knowledge, skill, time, money, and love that sid and his family have given to rebuild not only hammers but a company deserve alittle more respect and a big thumbs up.

looks good enough to eat make make some more and we can have a boilen head sucken time.