ArtWerkz

The $50 dollar knife shop by Wayne Goddard. Lots of great info and tricks and how to's for the beginner.

Are the pieces you are welding directly being hit with the flame ? I hear at higher psi if your scarfs are directly in the flame they will pick up contaminants and make welding almost impossible. I am sure someone here will have a definitive answer for ya.

I thank you for the reply and the information Uri. I may have to try and tackle one. Thank-you again Sir.

Uri, did you get inspiration for these bulls from Fridolin Wolf's book ?

I found this online John. TREATMENT TEMPERATURE RANGE COOLING/QUENCHING NOTES FORGING 1700-1900° F In air. Heat slowly to maximum temperature. Forging should begin as soon as the section is uniformly heated through. ANNEALING 1400-1450° F Cool slowly in the furnace at a maximum rate of 50° F per hours.. Protect against surface decarburization by pack-annealing. Hold at temperature for 1 hour. STRESS RELIEVING 1200-1250° F Cool slowly in air. Stress relieve after rough machining PREHEATING 1200-1250° F Preheat time in furnace is ¾ Hr. per inch of thickness. HARDENING 1375-1450° F In water or in a brine solution. Small tools or parts may be heated in molten lead or in a salt bath. Soak time is 10 minutes per inch of thickness. Minimum of 30 minutes. TEMPERING (See Chart) Temper immediately after hardening and quenching. Recommended temperature is 350-550° F.

When I took my first Machinist course almost 20 years ago our first project was to chisel a block of mild steel from parent material and draw file to perfect flatness. Whew, that was fun. It was a 2" x 2" block, if memory serves.

I can honestly say I have never seen anything like that before. Monster vise.

Nice table, it's got a heck of a backbone. Nice work.

Your work Uri, never ceases to amaze or delight. Very nice indeed.

Yup, Grant would be the man to talk to, just sent him an e-mail about making my touchmark a couple days ago.

Thanks guys, I have a good teacher and constant good advice from some very talented smith's.

Do you have any BBQ briquettes? This is a good way to get er going. Start with a few briquettes and add coke to that or green coal and then coke. I am no expert but that has worked for me.

Hello All, Here's a wood rack I made for my sister. I am still learning and have less than a month actual forge time, be gentle. I must admit I am a little nervous posting with all the top shelf smiths here, but here goes...

It's about 14-15 inches across at the top and 3-4 inches deep from the clinker breaker up in a nice bowl shape which I like. Let us know.

You may find the rack section under your horn to be in the way for some things.

I have a Centaur forge fire pot also, I ordered the "heavy duty coke firepot" and I am very happy with it. It's a heavy sucker with dumping ash gate and a clinker breaker. No complaints as yet.

Wow, I am still squirming. I can't believe the length of that piece of metal. Holy Cow.

Thomas nailed it. The only other things I would add would be safety gear ie: eye protection etc etc.

Perhaps a speed reducer from your motor would be a quicker fix.

Fe-Wood, I have never seen a set up like that before. Could you tell me what it's for ? Would this be the set up to make bowls and the like ? The tail stock and compound have me confused. Thanks in advance.

Beer fridge and BBQ. Reduces trips to the house immensely.

Perhaps a quick flip through the latest Machinist Handbook would help in your quest.

Man, there's so many anvils in the U.S and so many brands to choose from world wide. Thank-you all for your input. I am having a hard time even to find a decent 200# anything in my neck of the woods. Perhaps the anvil gods will smile on me soon. Cheers

Wham, the hammer of reality. Thanks Grant, the truth, the whole truth and nothing but the truth. If opportunity doesn't knock, build a door.

I have Volume 1 and Volume 2 and they are in my opinion the best books available on the craft. I can't wait for Volume 3, Joinery. It is rumoured to be in the works. I love the fact that the pictures are very clear and the iron cold so you can see exactly what is being taught. I can't imagine the amount of work that went into making these books. If you want to purchase books about the craft and are serious about blacksmithing these are the two volumes to own. Cheers