ArtWerkz

Tim, there is a "junkyard list" of steel that can be used for forging, ie: car parts etc. also the scrap yard will have lots of things you can use for cheap. ie: re-bar. I'll see if I can find the list for you. Here's a link for you. www.anvilfire.com/FAQs/junkyard_steel.htm

Nice work as always Judson, I like the finials on the wood rack.

Dennis, there's some info here that may interest you. www.beautifuliron.com/chimneys.htm Also check out Centaur Forge under the forge section and then click forge accessories and they have two sizes of hoods. Cheers

Perhaps a few pieces of pipe stood on end and welded to a plate and lagged to the floor if need be. You can make the lengths of pipe whatever you want as well as pipe diameter.

Here are some contacts for you. web@scarsibernardo.com This shop is in Italy. Also check with ABANA, I think they have listings for smith's in Europe. Sounds like an awesome trip. Cheers

You could always use the #22 hard facing rods from Sodel, these are slightly different than the usual HF rods used for hoe buckets, teeth etc. These rods are for metal to metal contact and are designed for high impact. The only thing is I have found that you can only run about 2 beads on top of each other. Having said that if you have to build up an area build a cushion layer with 7018's or the like. Hope this helps. Cheers

There are 3 handling/porter holes in the base, I will flip it over tomorrow when I am back in the shop Thomas to inspect for anything. If the base was indeed cast Thomas would it not sound different when tapped with a hammer. It has an almost identical pitch between the face and the sides, very high pitched ring.

Mark if it was a PW wouldn't the ring be quite a bit different from sides to face ? The pitch of the ring is almost identical from face to sides. I think I read somewhere that PW's have 5 porter holes in the base, but don't quote me on that, and this beast has three. i just don't know....

I thought it may be a Peter Wright myself but it doesn't seem to have the top plate like Peter Wright's, the whole anvil seems to be cast steel. I cant see a seam anywhere, even on the heel where there is no damage.

For sure Ken, the yellow helper is good. It does have a little depression in the top but not bad. I just wish I knew what the make was.

The face is about 5.5" across.

You could check with the folks at the Kootenay School for the Arts, they may be able to point you in the right direction. Or the Kootenay Blacksmith's Assoc.

I found it in Canada. It rings loud like a bell everywhere, on the sides, on the horn, on the face. The damage if you will to the sides looks as if someone was cutting on it with an oxy/accet torch. Thomas, I haven't turned it over to look at the bottom yet. Is there anything I should be looking for there ? Also it has really good bounce from a light hammer blow. The colour you see is a grey/green primer paint.

Perhaps someone will know the maker of this anvil. There are no makers marks that I can see. It has 3 square holes in the base. It is 32" from the tip of the horn to the heel and it weighs roughly 300 lbs. It seems to be mostly all cast steel. Any ideas folks ? Thanks in advance.

Yes, I might. There are probably things you might consider also.

No worries, it's all good.

Thread Jacker, please start your own threads to sell seats in your course and show your work. Thx.

No problems, You take 6 equal pieces of stock and forge weld two at a time on both ends. Leave enough material to join to whatever piece you are putting the handle on. So now you have three pieces of two. Twist each of these separately. Forge weld all three twisted pairs together. Heat the entire handle and twist..very carefully.

Thanks all, I appreciate the replies.

The braid is made from 6 individual pieces of stock that are forge welded together and twisted to form the braid.

Well, learned how to make a Celtic braid today and turned it into a chipping hammer. All traditional blacksmithing, forge welded and the tool steel hammer head is riveted to the shaft by the shaft. Cheers

Damp bath towels are awesome for this like the boys say, the only thing I would add are magnets. Then you can place them just about anywhere.

If you end up keeping the piece, you can weld it with cast iron rod. Heat the piece up first with a torch, weld it and then almost cool it with the torch. I have the same pot and have nothing between the two pieces. Did you get the 3" air gate ? This will make life easier for you. I wouldn't sweat the broken piece, Bekki and the gang at Centaur are good, they'll make it right.

Thanks Beth & Bent. I have only been actually learning blacksmithing for a short time and I am trying to learn all I can. I have an excellent teacher that has taken me under his wing. I recently changed professions to pursue smithing on a more full time basis so I want to learn the shoeing end of it also. It seems from observation that the best traditional smiths were/are farriers. Thank you for the kind words. Cheers

Well, this week I have been getting instruction on how to make horse shoes. I have to say I have a whole new appreciation for Farriers that make their own shoes. You might think, ah anyone can make a horseshoe.... not so my friends. From breaking the toe to getting the branches right and the corks. "There is more to it than meets the eye"- Frank Turley So once I got a meager handle on the radii I proceeded to make a circle and forge weld it together... and I am happy to report you can't see the joint. Tomorrow we are really going old school, I am learning how to forge braze the corks on hunter/jumper shoes.