ArtWerkz

I wouldn't be in a hurry or a panic for that one. Looks like it may require a lot of work to make it usable.

The $50 dollar knife shop by Wayne Goddard. Lots of great info and tricks and how to's for the beginner.

Are the pieces you are welding directly being hit with the flame ? I hear at higher psi if your scarfs are directly in the flame they will pick up contaminants and make welding almost impossible. I am sure someone here will have a definitive answer for ya.

I thank you for the reply and the information Uri. I may have to try and tackle one. Thank-you again Sir.

Uri, did you get inspiration for these bulls from Fridolin Wolf's book ?

I found this online John. TREATMENT TEMPERATURE RANGE COOLING/QUENCHING NOTES FORGING 1700-1900° F In air. Heat slowly to maximum temperature. Forging should begin as soon as the section is uniformly heated through. ANNEALING 1400-1450° F Cool slowly in the furnace at a maximum rate of 50° F per hours.. Protect against surface decarburization by pack-annealing. Hold at temperature for 1 hour. STRESS RELIEVING 1200-1250° F Cool slowly in air. Stress relieve after rough machining PREHEATING 1200-1250° F Preheat time in furnace is ¾ Hr. per inch of thickness. HARDENING 1375-1450° F In water or in a brine solution. Small tools or parts may be heated in molten lead or in a salt bath. Soak time is 10 minutes per inch of thickness. Minimum of 30 minutes. TEMPERING (See Chart) Temper immediately after hardening and quenching. Recommended temperature is 350-550° F.

When I took my first Machinist course almost 20 years ago our first project was to chisel a block of mild steel from parent material and draw file to perfect flatness. Whew, that was fun. It was a 2" x 2" block, if memory serves.

I can honestly say I have never seen anything like that before. Monster vise.

Nice table, it's got a heck of a backbone. Nice work.

Your work Uri, never ceases to amaze or delight. Very nice indeed.

Yup, Grant would be the man to talk to, just sent him an e-mail about making my touchmark a couple days ago.

Thanks guys, I have a good teacher and constant good advice from some very talented smith's.

Do you have any BBQ briquettes? This is a good way to get er going. Start with a few briquettes and add coke to that or green coal and then coke. I am no expert but that has worked for me.

Hello All, Here's a wood rack I made for my sister. I am still learning and have less than a month actual forge time, be gentle. I must admit I am a little nervous posting with all the top shelf smiths here, but here goes...

It's about 14-15 inches across at the top and 3-4 inches deep from the clinker breaker up in a nice bowl shape which I like. Let us know.

You may find the rack section under your horn to be in the way for some things.

I have a Centaur forge fire pot also, I ordered the "heavy duty coke firepot" and I am very happy with it. It's a heavy sucker with dumping ash gate and a clinker breaker. No complaints as yet.

Wow, I am still squirming. I can't believe the length of that piece of metal. Holy Cow.

Thomas nailed it. The only other things I would add would be safety gear ie: eye protection etc etc.

Perhaps a speed reducer from your motor would be a quicker fix.

Fe-Wood, I have never seen a set up like that before. Could you tell me what it's for ? Would this be the set up to make bowls and the like ? The tail stock and compound have me confused. Thanks in advance.

Beer fridge and BBQ. Reduces trips to the house immensely.

Perhaps a quick flip through the latest Machinist Handbook would help in your quest.

Man, there's so many anvils in the U.S and so many brands to choose from world wide. Thank-you all for your input. I am having a hard time even to find a decent 200# anything in my neck of the woods. Perhaps the anvil gods will smile on me soon. Cheers